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Description

Access issues inherited from Sweden

Please used designated parking areas. Check Sweden climbing association access database: http://access.bergsport.se/

Approach

Park in the pocket just before the gate on the right (north) side of the road at this location (59.294181, 18.370041). Follow the road another 500m. When the road turns sharp right, you will have a fence (with a gate and a sign "private") on the left side of the road. Just before the fence you can find an undefined trail leading up in the top of the crag. You will arrive on top of the west trad wall.

Routes

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Grade Route

Reached from the top or from the west side

Down by the water. Reached from the east side

Starts in Land of Broken Dreams. Might feel more like 7c+ if you are under 175 cm. Bolted by Iain Pitcairn, FA by Tim Bohman

FA: 28 Feb

8b?

Reached from the top or from the east side.

FA: Björn Peck, 2015

Start on the ledge. Belay from there or from the ground. Chossy rock in the start, to pre-clip first bolt (stick) feels better. Run out after 2nd bolt, be careful with 3rd clip.

FA: 1996

Almost sport. A nut behind the flake in the start (or clip-stick the first bolt).

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