Galgeberget Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Philip Jon Shen Knut Bjoernebye Simon HaeMeS Anthony Cuskelly Fabian

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Galgeberget 67 routes in Crag



All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 58.410053, 11.430131


Big crag with many good trad lines.


The cafe on Röe gård is highly recommended.

access issues

Access sensitive. Drive very slow on the road. Check and follow parking instructions (link below). Keep noice down.


where to stay

Lunch at Röe gård Kafe is recommended.

1.1. Lilla Galgeberget 17 routes in Cliff


Lat / Long: 58.410997, 11.430086

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Clark Kent 7 Trad 15m
2 Pyspunka 7 Trad 20m
3 Angsland 7+ Trad 20m
4 Science Friction 7+ Trad 15m
5 Hampus Räf Klättrar Fel

FFA: 2016

7 Trad
6 Aretmetik 7+ PROT:R - X Trad 15m
7 An Du'ra Hornet 7+ Trad 15m
8 Abra Kadabra

Madeleine Cope and Hazel Findlay, 4min

8/8+ Trad 15m
9 Anadrom 9 Trad 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 Skrackpropaganda

Weekend wipper clip:

9- PROT:R Trad 15m
11 Dangan Runner 8- Trad 15m
12 Hokus Fokus 8 Trad 15m
13 Döv For En Dag 8/8+ Trad 15m
14 Masken

Classic finger crack

7 Trad 15m
15 IQ84 8 Trad 17m
16 The Cabibo Kobayashi Maskawa / Mixing Matrix 8- Trad 15m
17 Fotnoten 5 Trad 15m

1.2. Stora Galgeberget 50 routes in Crag


Lat / Long: 58.409077, 11.428985

1.2.1. Västväggen 23 routes in Cliff

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 58.409531, 11.428521

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Breddidirott

FFA: 2016

6+ Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Dynamo 8 Trad 30m
3 Hang´em high 8 Trad 20m
4 Bagatell 6+ Trad 25m
5 Börja om från början 5+ Trad 30m
6 Borelia 7+/8- Trad 10m
7 Palimpsest 5+ Trad 40m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 DNA 6- Trad 35m
9 Mutant variant

Alternative start to "DNA". Starts in the crag to the right up to the ledge with the tree.

6- Trad 35m
10 Bomber 7- Trad 35m
11 Får Jag Lov 6+ Trad 35m
12 Le Tratt 7- Trad 35m
13 Laid back crack 7+ Trad 15m
14 Laid back crack direkt 8- Trad 4m
15 Tantklättring 7- Trad 15m
16 Smuts 5- Trad 10m
17 Magnolia 6+ Trad 12m
18 Lilla Hörnet 5- Trad 8m
19 Tillfället 5+ Trad 10m
20 Ducati 7- Trad 7m
21 Skyggediedret 6 Trad 12m
22 En Glad Pessimist 7+ Trad 18m
23 Biten

FFA: 2016

3+ Trad 15m

1.2.2. Sydväggen 27 routes in Cliff

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 58.408557, 11.428997

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Stora Hörnet 6- Trad 35m
2 Saturn B1 7+ PROT:R Trad 30m
3 Kantsömmen 6- Trad
4 Gritareten 8- Trad 15m
5 Cameo 6 PROT:R - X Trad 15m
6 Galgen 6- Trad 15m
7 Ansiktsklättring 6 Trad 20m
8 Barnleken 6- Trad 30m
9 På ruinens brant 8- PROT:R Trad 15m
10 En sexa skåne 6 Trad 35m
11 Tvivel 7- Trad
12 Bortom Allt Förnuft 6+ Trad 35m
13 Parlek 6+ Trad 35m
14 Mot Södern 6 Trad 35m
15 Q.Robur 5+ Trad 35m
16 Ormbiten 6 Trad 30m
17 Ormens Väg över Hälleberget 5+ Trad 35m
18 Uppkomsten 5- Trad 35m
19 Vipera Berus 5+ Trad 35m
20 Black Snake Moan 7+/8- Mixed trad 30m, 1
21 Snakes On The Rock 6+ PROT:R Trad 30m
22 Kaskelottens Återuppstigning / Återkomsten 4+ Trad 30m
23 Snake Dancer 7- PROT:R Trad 30m
24 Knottbiten 5- Trad 25m
25 Fästingbiten 5 Trad 25m
26 Ett decennium

FFA: 2016

3 Trad 9m
27 Sticket

FFA: 2016

3 Trad 9m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
3 Ett decennium Trad 9m 1.2.2. Sydväggen
Sticket Trad 9m 1.2.2. Sydväggen
3+ Biten Trad 15m 1.2.1. Västväggen
4+ Kaskelottens Återuppstigning Trad 30m 1.2.2. Sydväggen
5- Lilla Hörnet Trad 8m 1.2.1. Västväggen
Smuts Trad 10m 1.2.1. Västväggen
Knottbiten Trad 25m 1.2.2. Sydväggen
Uppkomsten Trad 35m 1.2.2. Sydväggen
5 Fotnoten Trad 15m 1.1. Lilla Galgeberget
Fästingbiten Trad 25m 1.2.2. Sydväggen
5+ Börja om från början Trad 30m 1.2.1. Västväggen
Palimpsest Trad 40m 1.2.1. Västväggen
Tillfället Trad 10m 1.2.1. Västväggen
Ormens Väg över Hälleberget Trad 35m 1.2.2. Sydväggen
Q.Robur Trad 35m 1.2.2. Sydväggen
Vipera Berus Trad 35m 1.2.2. Sydväggen
6- DNA Trad 35m 1.2.1. Västväggen
Mutant variant Trad 35m 1.2.1. Västväggen
Barnleken Trad 30m 1.2.2. Sydväggen
Galgen Trad 15m 1.2.2. Sydväggen
Kantsömmen Trad 1.2.2. Sydväggen
Stora Hörnet Trad 35m 1.2.2. Sydväggen
6 Skyggediedret Trad 12m 1.2.1. Västväggen
Ansiktsklättring Trad 20m 1.2.2. Sydväggen
En sexa skåne Trad 35m 1.2.2. Sydväggen
Mot Södern Trad 35m 1.2.2. Sydväggen
Ormbiten Trad 30m 1.2.2. Sydväggen
6 R - X Cameo Trad 15m 1.2.2. Sydväggen
6+ Bagatell Trad 25m 1.2.1. Västväggen
Breddidirott Trad 1.2.1. Västväggen
Får Jag Lov Trad 35m 1.2.1. Västväggen
Magnolia Trad 12m 1.2.1. Västväggen
Bortom Allt Förnuft Trad 35m 1.2.2. Sydväggen
Parlek Trad 35m 1.2.2. Sydväggen
6+ R Snakes On The Rock Trad 30m 1.2.2. Sydväggen
7- Bomber Trad 35m 1.2.1. Västväggen
Ducati Trad 7m 1.2.1. Västväggen
Le Tratt Trad 35m 1.2.1. Västväggen
Tantklättring Trad 15m 1.2.1. Västväggen
Tvivel Trad 1.2.2. Sydväggen
7- R Snake Dancer Trad 30m 1.2.2. Sydväggen
7 Clark Kent Trad 15m 1.1. Lilla Galgeberget
Hampus Räf Klättrar Fel Trad 1.1. Lilla Galgeberget
Masken Trad 15m 1.1. Lilla Galgeberget
Pyspunka Trad 20m 1.1. Lilla Galgeberget
7+ An Du'ra Hornet Trad 15m 1.1. Lilla Galgeberget
Angsland Trad 20m 1.1. Lilla Galgeberget
Science Friction Trad 15m 1.1. Lilla Galgeberget
En Glad Pessimist Trad 18m 1.2.1. Västväggen
Laid back crack Trad 15m 1.2.1. Västväggen
7+ R Saturn B1 Trad 30m 1.2.2. Sydväggen
7+ R - X Aretmetik Trad 15m 1.1. Lilla Galgeberget
7+ to 8- Borelia Trad 10m 1.2.1. Västväggen
Black Snake Moan Mixed trad 30m, 1 1.2.2. Sydväggen
8- Dangan Runner Trad 15m 1.1. Lilla Galgeberget
The Cabibo Kobayashi Maskawa Trad 15m 1.1. Lilla Galgeberget
Laid back crack direkt Trad 4m 1.2.1. Västväggen
Gritareten Trad 15m 1.2.2. Sydväggen
8- R På ruinens brant Trad 15m 1.2.2. Sydväggen
8 Hokus Fokus Trad 15m 1.1. Lilla Galgeberget
IQ84 Trad 17m 1.1. Lilla Galgeberget
Dynamo Trad 30m 1.2.1. Västväggen
Hang´em high Trad 20m 1.2.1. Västväggen
8 to 8+ Abra Kadabra Trad 15m 1.1. Lilla Galgeberget
Döv For En Dag Trad 15m 1.1. Lilla Galgeberget
9- R Skrackpropaganda Trad 15m 1.1. Lilla Galgeberget
9 Anadrom Trad 15m 1.1. Lilla Galgeberget
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