A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
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Table of contents
- 1.
Träleberget
121 in Crag
-
1.1.
Trellebystrand 51 in Cliff
- 1.1.1. Camping, north wall / Första väggen 15 in Sector
- 1.1.2. Camping, south wall / Andra väggen 15 in Sector
- 1.1.3. Kalymnos 21 in Sector
- 1.2. Träleberget 43 in Crag
- 1.3. Amfiteatern 16 in Crag
- 1.4. Rampen 10 in Crag
-
1.1.
Trellebystrand 51 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Träleberget 121 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 58.306325, 11.457106
description
The "area" include small beginner bolted walls on the camp site (climbing fee) and the impressive "Träleberget"
Printed guidebooks:
access issues
Update: In addition to climbing restriction during bird nesting season, sector 'Rampen' and sector 'Amfiteatern' are closed until further notice in agreement with landowner and hangers will be removed. Approach to main sector should be done along the water, from the camping. (Trails from above not allowed).
Check latest updates at:
approach
Park at Trellebystrands Camping. (Pay the parking fee, swish or in the reception). From the information table at the jetty (58.307136, 11.455392), a footpath along the water leads to Träleberget. Please note! trails from above not allowed.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Johannes | {SWE} 8- | ||||
1.1. Trellebystrand 51 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 58.308809, 11.461497
description
3 small cliffs within the camp ground.
1.1.1. Camping, north wall 15 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 58.308778, 11.463178
description
Not very attractive small slab wall located inside the camping area. According to signs, 50SEK fee for climbing.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Skö-kort
Set: Jens Larssen | 5c | ||||
| 2 |
Sandskädda
Set: Jens Larssen | 6a+ | ||||
| 3 |
Långa
Set: Jens Larssen | 7a | ||||
| 4 |
Sillen
Set: Jens Larssen | 6a+ | ||||
| 5 |
Tuben
Set: Jens Larssen | 5b | ||||
| 6 |
Musslan
Set: Jens Larssen | 6a | ||||
| 7 |
Valen
Set: Jens Larssen | 6a+ | ||||
| 8 |
Torsken
Set: Jens Larssen | 5c | ||||
| 9 |
Sjöodjuret
Set: Jens Larssen | 6a | ||||
| 10 |
★★ Bästa leden / New Collaboration
Set: Jens Larssen | 6b | ||||
| 11 |
Sjöpung
Set: Jens Larssen | 5c+ | ||||
| 12 |
Pippi
Set: Jens Larssen | 5c | ||||
| 13 |
Kling och Klang
Set: Jens Larssen | 5b | ||||
| 14 |
★ Lilla Gubban
Set: Jens Larssen | 5a | ||||
| 15 |
Krabban
Training anchor 3m up Set: Jens Larssen | 4b | ||||
1.1.2. Camping, south wall 15 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 58.308351, 11.462437
description
Not very attractive small slab wall located inside the camping area. According to signs, 50SEK fee for climbing.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Bobs marmolada
Set: Fredrik Lundqvist | 4a | 10m | |||
| 2 |
Mors lille Olle
To first anchor Set: Jens Larssen | 3b | 7m | |||
| 3 |
★★ Havskräftan
Continue on from Mors lille Olle Set: Jens Larssen | 5c | 13m | |||
| 4 |
Sjörök
To first anchor Set: Jens Larssen | 5b | 7m | |||
| 5 |
Dumbo
Continue straight up from Sjörök Set: Nea Herforth | 7b | 13m | |||
| 6 |
Sjösjuk
Set: Jens Larssen | 5c | 10m | |||
| 7 |
★★ Hundpizza
Set: jens larssen & fredrik lundqvist, 2016 | 6a | 10m | |||
| 8 |
★★ Skörbjugg
Set: Jens Larssen | 5c | 10m | |||
| 9 |
★★ Skönanden
Same start as Skörbjugg but straight up from 1st bolt. Set: Jens Larssen | 6a+ | 10m | |||
| 10 |
Sjöstjärna
Set: Jens Larssen | 5a | 7m | |||
| 11 |
★ Diagonalen
Set: jens larssen & fredrik lundqvist, 2016 | 5a | 10m | |||
| 12 |
Sjöjungfrun
Set: Jens Larssen | 5c | 8m | |||
| 13 |
Skötare
Set: Jens Larssen | 4c | 8m | |||
| 14 |
Sjörövare
Set: Jens Larssen | 5a | 8m | |||
| 15 |
Sjöslag
Set: Jens Larssen | 3a | 8m | |||
1.1.3. Kalymnos 21 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 58.309129, 11.460495
description
Some route info here: https://lysekilsklatterklubb.wordpress.com/klatteromrade/
https://www.8a.nu/se/nyheter/topo-foer-traelebergs-kile-vid-trellebystrand
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Glasmal | {SWE} 3 | ||||||
| 2 | Svärdbärare | {SWE} 5- | ||||||
| 3 | Prinsessan av Burundi | {SWE} 6 | ||||||
   |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 4 | ★ Trellebystrand | {SWE} 4- | ||||||
| 5 | Logos | {SWE} 3+ | ||||||
| 6 | Fågel fenix | {SWE} 3- | ||||||
| 7 |
★ Sjönöd
The bolted route on the left wall | 5a | ||||||
| 8 | Lego | {SWE} 3- | ||||||
| 9 | Blå blå himmel och vatten | {SWE} 5 | ||||||
| 10 |
Project
Left line on the right wall | 7c | ||||||
| 11 |
★ Best in Show
Second bolted line from the left | 7a+ | ||||||
| 12 | ★ Kalkstensleden | 6a+ | ||||||
| 13 | Arêten | 7a+ | ||||||
| 14 | ? | 6b | ||||||
| 15 | Ethos | 3+ | ||||||
| 16 | Aristo | 5 | ||||||
| 17 | ?? | 4 | ||||||
Unlocated | ||||||||
| 19 | Pathos | 3b | ||||||
| 20 | Puss puss | 4b | ||||||
| 21 | Photo genic | 4a | ||||||
| 22 | Aristoteles | 5b | ||||||
1.2. Träleberget 43 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 58.304515, 11.450810
access issues
Access sensitive, Climbing has been limited. Normally climbing no allowed before 15th of July each year due to nesting birds. Approach along the shoreline from the camping only!
approach
From the parking at Trellebystrand continue along road (away from camp ground and turn right between houses. Follow to the sea and turn left to walk along the coast. Be careful as you scramble along the coastal rocks to the crag. Not suitable for young children. The walk from the carpark is about 1.3km.
  |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ Granitskölden | 6b+ | ||||||
| 2 | ★★ Ljugarbänken | 6b | ||||||
| 3 | ★ Amazon | 6a | 25m | |||||
| 4 |
★ Lyckans Ost
Fantastic rock quality. Unfortunately short and un even. | 6c+ | 12m | |||||
| 5 |
Den Lyckliga Bultaren
Crimpy. | 7a+ | 15m | |||||
| 6 | Och hennes kompis | 7b+ | ||||||
| 7 | Isaac Hayes | 7b | ||||||
| 8 |
★ Black Moses
Originally on gear. | 7b | 15m | |||||
  |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 9 | ★ Slaven | 7a+ | 18m | |||||
| 10 | ★★ Ambatt | 7a+ | 18m | |||||
| 11 | ★★ Trälen | 6c+ | 18m | |||||
| 12 | ★★ Kunta Kinte | 7b+ | 20m | |||||
| 13 |
★★ Stono kinte
Start in Stono Rebellion and exit in Kunta Kinte | 6c | 20m | |||||
| 14 | Stono Rebellion | 7a+ | 20m | |||||
| 15 | Mamluker to first anchor | 6a+ | 20m | |||||
| 16 | Mamluker | 7b+ | 20m | |||||
| 17 | Pr? | |||||||
| 18 | Anakronistisk | 7c+ | ||||||
| 19 | Spartacus to first anchor | 7a+ | ||||||
| 20 | ★★★ Spartacus | 8a | 20m | |||||
| 21 |
★★ Mark futura III
FA: Jens Larssen, 2017 | 7a+ | 20m | |||||
| 22 | Crixus | 7c | 20m | |||||
| 23 | Project? | |||||||
| 24 |
★ Kyrktornet
Climb inside the big chimney. | 5b | 10m | |||||
| 25 |
Sträckbänken
FA: Henrik Bolander & Jens Larssen, 2017 | 7b | 20m | |||||
  |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 26 |
Maximus
FA: Henrik Bolander, 2017 | 7b | 20m | |||||
| 27 | ★ Ground up | 6a | 10m | |||||
| 28 | Ludus maximus | 7c+ | 20m | |||||
| 29 |
★★ Biblioteket
Some loose holds. | 6b+ | 18m | |||||
| 30 | Kulturbiblioteket | 6c | ||||||
| 31 | Kulturum | 6c | 18m | |||||
| 32 |
★★ Nanny of The Maroons
Hard exit | 6c | 18m | |||||
| 33 | ★★ Nanny to first anchor | 6b+ | 15m | |||||
| 34 |
★★ Dumle
Climb to the first anchor of 'Nanny of the Maroons' | 6b | 15m | |||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 35 | Lasse-Maja | {SWE} 6- | 16m | |||||
| 36 | Bohus fästning | 6a+ | ||||||
| 37 | Carlstens Fästing | 6b+ | 16m | |||||
| 38 | Metta Fock Hörnet | {SWE} 5+ | 16m | |||||
| 39 | ★ Bramberg Längst Till Höger | 6a+ | 10m | |||||
| 40 |
Hängningen
Extension of "Bramberg.." | 7b+ | ||||||
Unknown location | ||||||||
| 42 | Illern | {SWE} 3- | 15m | |||||
| 43 | Mammen | {SWE} 4- | 15m | |||||
| 44 | Fantastico | {SWE} 7-/7 | 25m | |||||
1.3. Amfiteatern 16 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Rock climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 58.304373, 11.451720
summary
Closed until further notice.
description
Sector "on top of" the main träleberget crag.
Some info here: https://lysekilsklatterklubb.wordpress.com/klatteromrade/#jp-carousel-1731
access issues
Sector Amfiteatern Closed until further notice due to access dialog with landowner. Hangers will be removed.
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Uthina
? | {SWE} 5+ | ||||||
| 2 |
Pozzuoli
According to 2020 guidebook a sport route, but no bolts on the face? | 6b | ||||||
| 3 |
★ Leptis Magna
According to 2020 guidebook a sport route, but no bolts on the face? | 6b | ||||||
| 4 |
★★ Arles
Bolt line in the middle of the face. Looks rather good. | 6b | ||||||
| 5 |
★★★ Nimes
According to 2020 guidebook a sport route. One bolt in the start .. ? | 6c | ||||||
| 6 |
★ New collaboration
Steep start and a bit spicy in the top. Hard for the grade. | 6b | ||||||
| 7 | Pompeji | 4b | ||||||
| 8 |
Pula
? | 6a | ||||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 9 | Korridor | 6b | ||||||
| 10 | I väntan på F | 5b | ||||||
| 11 | Snömannen | {SWE} 4+ | ||||||
| 12 | Pansarhjärta | 5c | ||||||
| 13 |
Törst
Partly bolted | {SWE} 5- | ||||||
| 14 | Kackerlackorna | 6a | ||||||
| 15 | Djävulsstjärnan | 6b | ||||||
| 16 | Frälsaren | 6c | ||||||
1.4. Rampen 10 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 58.304351, 11.452461
summary
Sector closed until further notice.
access issues
Sector Rampen Closed until further notice due to access dialog with landowner. Hangers will be removed.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 1 | 6a | ||||
| 2 | 2 | 6a+ | ||||
| 3 |
3
Link up. Start in 2, finish in 4. | 6b | ||||
| 4 | 4 | 6c+ | ||||
| 5 | 5 | 7a | ||||
| 6 | 6 | 7a+ | ||||
| 7 |
7
Link up. Start in 6, finish in 8. | 6b | ||||
| 8 | 8 | 6a+ | ||||
| 9 | 9 | 6a | ||||
| 10 | 10 | 6a+ | ||||
