Help

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Summary

Hög och stor "strandklippa" ganska nära stan som bjuder på både trad och sportklättring i brett spann av grader.

Description

Some trad but mainly sport with in moderate grades. Mainly vertical and slab on very good and compact granit, making most of the climbs rather technical. Nice location by the water, with evening sun. Unfortunately close to the big road, and a bit noisy when wind comes from the north.

Online-Topo available: http://www.sverigeforaren.se/index.php/Ekoberget

Access issues

http://access.bergsport.se/ekoberget/

Located in a nature reserve. https://www.lansstyrelsen.se/stockholm/besoksmal/naturreservat/ekoberget.html

Old parking at, and access through Graninge stiftsgård no longer possible to use. Park in pocket along Graningevägen, just north of the bridge. Access the crag by using the trail through the forest, reaching the water just south of the freeway.

Approach

(59.330092, 18.318610)

Parking instructions: https://stkf.se/nyheter/2017/07/07/ny-parkering-vid-ekoberget/

By public transport: Bus to stop "Eriksvik" along värmdövägen. Follow värmdövägen west by foot, take walking / bike road right towards the water. Follow the trail along the shoreline to the crag.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

FA: Olof Siwertz, 13 Jun 2021

Classic. Slightly scary start on the slab. Crimpy finish.

Good technical route on very smooth holds.

FA: 2007

The right leaning crack.

Start in the groove, finish slightly left. First bolt high. For the grade a rather hard and mental crux.

Start just to the right of the groove, keep left into the groove, through the small roof in the narrow inner corner, finish on the slab. One of the longest route on the crag.

Start right of the pine tree, climb up the ledge and aim left towards the bolt line 1,5m right of 'Fotografen har en stor apparat'. Technical and hard section in the middle join 'Fotografen har en stor apparat' on the top slab.

FA: Thomas Hansson, 2001

Link

Start in vårkåt and exit left.

FA: 2003

Previously partly bolted. Fully bolted by MW 2019

One of the best in the grade in Stockholm

Share start with 'Wiwaxia'

A hard boulder crux in the start leads to easy mid section and a classic 'Ekoberget'- style upper half. Shared anchor above the ledge.

Link up. 'Ronin' - 'Wiwaxia' , escaping the 'Wiwaxia' start crux.

Fully bolted 2023

Fully bolted 2023

Second pitch to 'Pangea' or 'Trollskott'

Top pitch

FA: Rasmus Johansson, 2022

Rarely climbed. Overgrown.

First anchor on a ledge. Second anchor on the big top ledge. Tight but possible to rep on a 70m rope, but be careful and make stop knots.

FA: Rasmus Johansson, Apr 2022

Climb same start and first 3 bolts with 'Baguettebaletten' and then straight up. Half way up, traverse left and finish with the slab. Great climbing in typical Ekoberget style with a distinct crux. Same anchor as 'Baguettebaletten' high on the top ledge. Possible but tight to rep on a 70m rope. Be careful and remember a stop knot.

FA: Rasmus Johansson, 2022

Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): M. Widerberg

Date: 2018

Climbing and bouldering areas close to Stockholm - over 3000 climbing routes in 57 climbing areas on more than 150 walls

Accommodations nearby more Hide

Share this

Activity

Check out what is happening in Ekoberget.

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文