Hög och stor "strandklippa" ganska nära stan som bjuder på både trad och sportklättring i brett spann av grader.


Some trad but mainly sport with in moderate grades. Mainly vertical and slab on very good and compact granit, making most of the climbs rather technical. Nice location by the water, with evening sun. Unfortunately close to the big road, and a bit noisy when wind comes from the north.

Online-Topo available:

Access issues

Located in a nature reserve.

Old parking at, and access through Graninge stiftsgård no longer possible to use. Park in pocket along Graningevägen, just north of the bridge. Access the crag by using the trail through the forest, reaching the water just south of the freeway.


(59.330092, 18.318610)

Parking instructions:

By public transport: Bus to stop "Eriksvik" along värmdövägen. Follow värmdövägen west by foot, take walking / bike road right towards the water. Follow the trail along the shoreline to the crag.



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Grade Route

FA: Olof Siwertz, 13 Jun 2021

Classic. Slightly scary start on the slab. Crimpy finish.

Good technical route on very smooth holds.

FA: 2007

The right leaning crack.

Start in the groove, finish slightly left. First bolt high. For the grade a rather hard and mental crux.

Start just to the right of the groove, keep left into the groove, through the small roof in the narrow inner corner, finish on the slab. One of the longest route on the crag.

Start right of the pine tree, climb up the ledge and aim left towards the bolt line 1,5m right of 'Fotografen har en stor apparat'. Technical and hard section in the middle join 'Fotografen har en stor apparat' on the top slab.

FA: Thomas Hansson, 2001


Start in vårkåt and exit left.

FA: 2003

Previously partly bolted. Fully bolted by MW 2019

One of the best in the grade in Stockholm

Share start with 'Wiwaxia'

A hard boulder crux in the start leads to easy mid section and a classic 'Ekoberget'- style upper half. Shared anchor above the ledge.

Link up. 'Ronin' - 'Wiwaxia' , escaping the 'Wiwaxia' start crux.

Fully bolted 2023

Fully bolted 2023

Second pitch to 'Pangea' or 'Trollskott'

Top pitch

FA: Rasmus Johansson, 2022

Rarely climbed. Overgrown.

First anchor on a ledge. Second anchor on the big top ledge. Tight but possible to rep on a 70m rope, but be careful and make stop knots.

FA: Rasmus Johansson, Apr 2022

Climb same start and first 3 bolts with 'Baguettebaletten' and then straight up. Half way up, traverse left and finish with the slab. Great climbing in typical Ekoberget style with a distinct crux. Same anchor as 'Baguettebaletten' high on the top ledge. Possible but tight to rep on a 70m rope. Be careful and remember a stop knot.

FA: Rasmus Johansson, 2022

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Author(s): M. Widerberg

Date: 2018

Climbing and bouldering areas close to Stockholm - over 3000 climbing routes in 57 climbing areas on more than 150 walls

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