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Östblocket

  • Grade context: SWE
  • Ascents: 3
8
SWE

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

One of the highest-located walls in Ågelsjön with slab climbing mixed with cracks. It takes a very long time for the part underneath the overhang to dry since it seeps water from the mountain. However, the routes to the right and the rest of the wall dries very quickly.

Some of the routes start inside the ravine and the others on the shelf. Make sure that the belayer is secure before climbing, some of the routes have a bolt at the ground.

There is a rappel anchor on the top of the cliff which makes easy access to put toprope on "De lyckliga kompisarna", "Luffaren" and "Revormen". See the approach part for walk description to the rappel anchor.

Access issues inherited from Ågelsjön

Naturreservat, nature reserve. Check the rules displayed on the billboard at the parking.

Approach

This wall is located just before the "Ravinen". Follow the orange marked hike trail that starts on the right side of the dirt parking lot, when the trail splits take the left trail. Follow the trail for a couple of minutes and you will see the wall on the right.

Coming from "Drakväggen", follow the gravel road past "B-lagsväggen" and "Volxväggen" and then turn left into the hiking trail. There is a possibility to scramble up on the right side of "Volxväggen" and just continue up, however, it is not recommended when wet.

To get to the upper wall as well as the rappel anchor go through the ravine and follow the orange hiking trail to the top of "Ravinen". When the hiking trail starts going left away from the cliff, continue straight ahead along the cliff. After a bit, there is a possibility to scramble down on the side of the upper wall and the bolt will be on the right side of the upper wall.

Descent notes

All routes have a bolted anchor and there is a rappel anchor above "Luffaren" . Walk-off is possible, scramble up on the right side of the rappel anchor and go on the cliff to the left, follow the top of the cliff until a small trail with an orange marking appears. Follow the trail down the mountain through "Ravinen" until you are back where you started.

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Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Kalle Eriksson, 2018

FA: M Eriksson, 1996

An open project that probably has been done. Follow the inviting crack almost straight up where you scrambled up. If you know the grade and name please update.

Has anchor!

FA: M Carsten & J Rassmusssen, 1994

Varied climbing between slab, crimps, and jams. Follow the bolt line until it ends then travers into the crack that goes to the top. Make sure that the belayer is clipped into the bolt at the ground.

FA: O Kylstam, 1993

FA: O Kylstam, 1993

Nice crack that needs some thought to find good protection.

The route is on upper Östblocket, walk up to the rappel anchor for "Luffaren" and then walk a couple of meters past it.

FA: Sandra Isaksson, 20 Jun 2018

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Tue 22 Feb
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