Help

Gritstoneberget

  • Grade context: SWE
  • Photos: 2
  • Ascents: 220
  • Content Quality: Emerging
24

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Summary

Fantastic easy access crag with an awesome view over Kalvfjärden. Great routes in the grade 5-6 region.

Description

The best description is found here: http://www.sverigeforaren.se/klattring/gritstoneberget in Swedish.

Access issues

Sensitive access situation. Keep very low profile. Be aware that any noice bounce on the wall and down to the house below. No good parking. Located in a nature reserve. Bolting not allowed.

Check latest access information at:

https://stkf.se/accessinfo/

http://access.bergsport.se/gritstoneberget/

Approach

Best is to park at Dyviksudd parking and walk the trail through the nature reserve.

About 10m north from the postboxes 92 and 96 on Ällmoravägen, you find a pole marking the boarder of the nature reserve. Walk straight up in the forest, following the nature reserve boarder white markings on the trees and you will hit a trail that leads up on the ledge.

Ethic

No new bolts or rebolting is allowed.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

Start up a few meters left of the block on the ground (Tummeliten) where there is a crack, then red rock (run out), thereafter a small dieder. Aim towards the pine tree close to the top.

FA: Claes Jelinek & Martin Andersson, 1986

Starts on top of the block on the ground. A few meters up is crack which starts with a hole.

FA: Lars Grankvist & Lars Svadängs, 1981

Starts 2 meters to the left om Amandas lov. See below. Amazing moves over steep terrain fo rits grade. Just go for it, the handholds will arrive where you need them.

FA: Rikard Hedman & Lars Svadängs

(4- Swedish Grade) Steep climbing with good holds on the most prominent crack located 2-3 meters left of the oak tree and the dead tree.

Topo: http://www.sverigeforaren.se/index.php/Gritstoneberget

FA: Lars Grankvist & Lars Johansson

Thin climbing with poor protection. One old (potentially / probably not safe) bolt at the most difficult part. (Original Swedish grade 6+/7-). The route starts under the bolt high up 2m to the right of Amandas lov.

FA: Björn Alber & Lars Svadängs

(6 Swedish Grade) It starts by the oak tree and the dead tree approximately 4 meters to the right of the the prominent crack "Amandas Lov". Start to climb the two very thin cracks (crux) then continue slightly left the easiest way up. At the middle of the climb, you have a bomber mid size nut placement. After that protection, it is difficult to find any protection. Prior to the bomber placement, you find good but small nut placements. Topo description at http://www.sverigeforaren.se/index.php/Gritstoneberget

FA: Jan Liliemark & Lars Svadängs

(6+ Swedish Grade) After a small ledge, half way up the route, place the bomber nut and step right, then straight up for 5-6 meters with one very thin move.

FA: Björn Myrer Lund

(4+/5- Swedish Grade) Starts under the prominent horizontal crack 2.5 meters up. The first crux is to reach this "thank god" grip. Continue up towards a small flake. Small protection placements under the flake. Thereafter, move right towards a crack, then up and move left again and up on good holds.

FA: Lars Svadängs & Kenneth Nolkrantz

First half is Tveksamma trender, while the second part is Skorpionen. Fantastic straight up line making it a sustained 6b with a couple of meters rest in the central part of the climb.

FA: Lars Svadängs & Christer Åstrand

First half is Skorpionen (5c overhang) and the final part is Tveksamma trender's top crux. This is also a great variation making the routse more straight lines.

FA: Lars Svadängs & Björn Alber

FA: Choe Brooks & Jan Liliemark

This variation uses the same start, but goes straight up to the left of the "whole". Straight line.

This variation start 2 meters to the right in the thin crack, thereafter straight up to the crux of the route. Very limited protection, ground fall potential for several meters.

Start up using the thin crack to the left of No exit. Thereafter travers right and continue upjust beside No exit to the top. Tricky to protect, use micro-cams and nuts.

FA: Johan Sandberg, Apr 2014

FFA: Johan Sandberg & Adam Montén Kovacs, May 2014

FFA: Jan Liliemark & Lars Svadängs, 1980

Positioned between No Exit and Stoppa in produkter. Follow the two old pitons. You can put in protection 3 meters above the ground and just below the first piton. Otherwise you have to trust the old pitons.

FA: Björn Alber & Lars Svadängs

FFA: Björn Alber & Anna Groth, 1987

Start 2m left from Urkki

FA: Johan Sandberg & Lats Thoren, 2019

FA: Petri Lintinen

Small cams useful

FFA: Thomas Weber & Ulrica Sundberg, 1989

Start just to the right of the Urrki crack. AIM for the finger crack below the bolt. Pass the bolt and continue up towards the next crack which leads to the top.

FFA: Lars Svadängs & Björn Alber, 1986

Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question

Activity

Check out what is happening in Gritstoneberget.

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 中文