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Hemsundet

  • Grade context: SWE
  • Ascents: 4

Seasonality

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Summary

Small, fun DWS area on good quality rock - but unfortunately a bit slabby and with a ledge in the middle. Worth a visit for an afternoon if you're passing the area, but not worth a bespoke trip.

Description

A popular local rock-jumping spot also has several fun Deep Water Solo routes above deep water (and some boulders and top-ropeable routes on the upper shelf of the main cliff). Plus some soloable routes above not-so-deep water.

Access issues

Hemsundet is a quite area with private houses with families so please respect that. No music or swearing. Need a boat, kayak or SUP to access. Kayak rental available on Möja. The routes are all in a Nature Reserve.

Approach

Swim or moor up boat!

Ethic

Most easier routes developed with little brushing and cleaning to minimise impact. A Grass Snake (snok) lives in the crack route 'Snakeskin' (and regularly sheds his skin there). Don't disturb him

History

History timeline chart

Explored by Shaun Hurrell during various trips 2018-2022

Routes

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Grade Route

A great DWS boulder above deep water (a popular jumping spot). For the true line for the grade, start from swimming, move up left and top out to the left, using the crack and a far left foothold (stretch). Avoid using top hold that is used to top out with Elefant Jumper, instead use holds on top to left of bulge above in line of foothold (eliminate). Surprisingly pumpy. Feels two grades harder with wet hands!

FA: Shaun Hurrell, 6 Jul 2018

Most direct line up to the jug rail at the top where people jump from. Start from the water for the full experience. Crux in the beginning establishing in the crack and reaching up.

FA: Shaun Hurrell, 1 Jul 2018

Start from the water using the right crack. Crux in beginning. Then up on jugs to the top. Sometimes plenty of spiderwebs.

FA: Shaun Hurrell, 1 Jul 2018

The best scramble line. Risky but easy - not above deep water.

FA: Shaun Hurrell, 2020

Good start sequence behind the tree, then exposed (but very easy) finish.

FA: Shaun Hurrell, 2020

The great corner crack with an exposed top-out. Large flat ledge suitable for a bouldering mat.

FA: Shaun Hurrell, 2020

Starting from the ledge, follow the obvious small features to a larger finishing hold. It may well be possible to top out but would be very hard and exposed. Room for bouldering mat on small ledge.

FA: Shaun Hurrell, 2020

Nice face problem that moves left then right with a nice mantle. Unfortunately no room for a mat.

FA: Shaun Hurrell, 2020

Climb out of the water using slopers. Difficulty ranges between 5 to 6b depending on how low the water is!

FA: Shaun Hurrell, 2018

An interesting fingery line with a thin top-out. Harder start from the water.

FA: Shaun Hurrell, 2020

FA: Shaun Hurrell, 2018

The second 'pitch' of 'Hemklippa' with easy moves up to a committing finish on nice holds to top out. Take care. It's fine to jump from the top back into deep water if you jump out to avoid the ledge.

FA: Shaun Hurrell, 2018

The main line, starting in a crack from the water and moving straight up using just the crack for a committing high-foot top out. Also reachable by downclimbing from the left and so staying dry. Above deep water, nice jumping from ledge.

FA: Shaun Hurrell, 2018

Starting in 'Hemklippa' but moving right on the quality holds. Harder (6b) variation if you move right early.

FA: Shaun Hurrell, 2018

Traverse low and left from 'Hemklippa' to finish in 'Pompilid's Crimp'. Great route. Stay dry and repeat.

FA: Shaun Hurrell, 2020

Continue from 'Elias the Boat' onto a traverse, using the metal peg as foothold. Then a pumpy traverse to the right and out. Don't fall, it's shallow.

FA: Shaun Hurrell, 2020

The nice obvious crack leads into a nice sequence below and to the left of the loose-looking boulder. Big-mountain feel. Warning! Water is shallow here, so don't fall high up, but crux is near the beginning. Take care! A Grass Snake (Snok) lives in the crack.

FA: Shaun Hurrell, 2019

The harder finish over the bulge

FA: Shaun Hurrell, 2020

Too shallow and risky for DWS as crux is higher up than 'Snakeskin'. Nice route.

FA: Shaun Hurrell, 2020

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