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Uvhällsklacken

  • Grade context: SWE
  • Photos: 2
  • Ascents: 49
  • Aka: Uvhällsklack
17

Seasonality

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Summary

Small crag in the woods with easy access. An equipped beach at the lake Tenasjön is less than 1 km away for refreshment after climbing.

Description

Mostly sport routes, with also a few short trad routes. Anchors accessible from the top for setting up top rope, use proper self-safety backup if doing so.

The Upplands leden goes close by the crag, follow it to reach the beach.

Access issues

Make sure to park good to not block cars passing the blocking barrier.

Approach

New parking instructions summer 2023. Check local climbing club Facebook group for latest info.

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Andreas Andersson & Roger Nykom, 30 May 2021

Obvious large crack with small ledges on the left hand of the crag. Can be partially wet even days after dry weather, but still possible to climb dry. Bolted anchor next to a pine, accessible from the top. Placements for nuts available, though not abundant for a beginners route.

FA: Henrik Gezelius, 12 May 2021

There are two bolts for building an anchor on a ledge above the route, but they are 5 m away and with no rings for lowering off.

FA: Andreas Andersson, 2018

Two starts possible.

FA: Andreas Andersson, 2019

FA: Andreas Andersson, 2019

FA: Andreas Andersson, 2019

Trad with bolted anchor.

FA is possibly made long ago, we are happy to update if you have info. /Ukk

FA: Anders Malmgren, 2020

FA: Andreas Andersson, 2018

Was initially called Internationalen when made on top rope.

FA: Andreas Andersson, 2018

Starts with a climb to a ledge.

FA: Andreas Andersson, 2017

FA: Andreas Andersson, 2017

Diagonal traverse to same anchor as Horisontlinjen.

FA: Andreas Andersson, 2021

FA: Andreas Andersson, 2021

FA: Andreas Andersson, 2021

Trad with bolted anchor. Anchor not seen from below. Previously known as Ja jävlar, when made on top rope.

Watch out with the lower block! Definitely not recommended to place protection behind it.

FA: Anders Malmgren, 2021

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Andreas Andersson

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9789163195952

A comprehensive guidebook describing the rock climbing around Lake Malaren near Stockholm in mid-east Sweden, covering hundreds of both bolted and trad routes of all grades, all within around an hour and a half’s drive from Stockholm.

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Tue 5 Dec
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