Ethic inherited from Alpstein

Sport climbs are very well protected but the historic multi pitch routes are sometime strange bolted and you have to take long run outs. Generally it is a good advice to bring some gear to improve protection where necessary.

New routes should be discussed with local authorities and the Swiss Alpine Club (SAC) before hand. Especially if routes may distract animals and destroy vegetation.


Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route
1 5c 30m
2 4b 20m
3 4b 25m
4 3b 25m
5 3a 45m
6 3c 25m
7 2a 50m

FA: P. Hell & P. Schafflützel, 1937

1 5c 50m
2 6b+ 15m
3 5c 25m
4 6a+ 45m
5 5c 45m
6 6b 45m
7 4a 30m

FA: B. Büchler & R. Schefer, 1982

1 5c
2 7b
3 6c
4 7a+
5 6c
6 6c+
7 6b
8 7b

FA: M. Hutter & M. Obendrauf, 1996

1 5c
2 4b
3 4b
4 5a
5 5b
6 4c
7 5c+
8 5a+
9 2c

FA: W. Fleischmann & M. Niedermann, 1955

1 5c
2 4b
3 4b
4 5b
5 5c+
6 6a+
7 5c
8 6a
9 4b

FA: H. Knechtle & W. Knechtle, 1965

FA: F. Anderrüthi & R. Solenthaler, 1961

1 A2
2 A2
3 A1
4 A2
5 5a A1
6 5a
7 5a A2
8 4a A1
9 4a

FA: S. Henkel, M. Kaufmann, H. Keimer, H. Wenin & P. Wüst, 1965

1 2c 45m
2 3b 40m
3 3a 48m
4 2a 40m

FA: E. Bill & F. Bürke, 1945

1 6a+ 20m
2 5c+ 40m
3 5c+ 50m
4 5c+ 45m
5 5c 40m
6 6a 35m
7 6a 25m
8 6b+ 45m
9 6a 40m
10 5c 40m
11 5c 45m
12 5a 50m
13 4c 30m
14 6a+ 35m
15 5b 50m
16 5c+ 50m
17 5b 50m
18 6a+ 34m
19 6a+ 45m
20 5b+ 50m
21 5b 15m
22 2a 100m

Great and the longest route in the Alpstein. The route is well protected but Alpstein like there are not too many bolts. Therefore it is wise to bring some friends, nuts and slings. Climbing duration 9-10 hours.

The pdf-topo can be slightly misleading: You cannot escape after pitch 21 onto the hiking trail, you have to summit via the 100m grade 2 (with a bolted anchor about half way).

Topo and description in German.

If you want an early start you can sleep at the Fählenalp, which is 2min walk from the start of the climb.

FA: C. Angst & T. Wälti, 2006

1 5c 45m
2 5b 40m
3 5b 45m
4 5b+ 45m
5 5c+ 42m
6 5c 50m
7 6a+ 40m
8 5b 35m
9 6a 48m
10 5b 40m
11 5b+ 40m
12 6a+ 40m
13 6a+ 47m
14 5c 30m
15 6b 30m

Friends and slings

Topo and description by Thomas Wälti can be found on his website.

FA: C. Angst & T. Wälti, 2007

1 5c+ 25m
2 6a 30m
3 5a 15m
4 5c 45m
5 5a 25m
6 5c 25m


FA: D. Schläpfer & H. Traber, 1989

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