Logbook
Help

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

An extremely dangerous and technical climb that has claimed the lives of many mountaineers and should only be attempted by people with the necessary experience and equipment to be successful.

One of the most notorious climbing crags in the world.

Approach

The starting point for the North Face routes can be accessed by train from either Grindelwald or Lauterbrunnen.

History

History timeline chart

In 1935, two young German climbers attempted to climb the North Face, they were met by bad weather and were later found to have frozen to death at a place now known as 'Death Bivouac' at 3300 metres.

In 1936, ten young climbers set out to ascend the North Face, but before the attempt began, a number of them gave up due to bad weather. Four pushed on to attempt the climb. After more bad weather after their attempt began, they found themselves unable to recross the Hinterstoisser Traverse, which left them stuck on the face as they had taken the rope which they first used to cross it. After more bad weather, an avalanche struck, killing everyone but Toni Kurz, who was clinging onto a rope. Three guides then attempted a perilous rescue attempt, in which they could not reach Kurz, but came within shouting distance and they found out what happened. The next morning they came back the next morning to find Tony barely alive. Kurz hauled himself off the cliff and back onto the face. The guides couldn't pass an unclimbable overhang that seperated them and Kurz. They threw him a rope long enough to reach him by tying two ropes together but Kurz couldn't get the knot to pass through his carabiner. He was within metres of the guides but they couldn't reach him. He was extremely tired and couldn't go any further so he died slowly.

In 1937 an attempt was made by Mathias Rebitsch and Ludwig Vorg, bad weather pursued and after three days on the Face they were forced to withdraw from the climb, which they did and returned alive.

The first successful attempt on the North Face was on July 24, 1938 by Anderl Heckmair, Ludwig Vorg, Heinrich Harrer and Fritz Kasparek.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route
1 5b
2 6c
3 5c
4 5c
5 4b
6 4c
7 4a
8 5a

Eiger Norwand, Westausläufer 50 Metr Seil, Frinds;1-3, Keile;2-8, Express;10 Abstieg über die die Westflanke Zugang: Eigertrail bis zum GRashügel unter dem Rotstock. Hier zweigt der Zustieg zum Klettertsteigab, dem man nun folgt bis auf das beite Schuttband. Wenig weiter oben gebinnt die Route.

Set: D. Anker & M. Gruber, 1988

1 6a+
2 6b
3 6a
4 6b+
5 6a
6 6b+
7 6a+/b
8 6c
9 6c

Alternate finish with one pitch less and 5c+ to the right instead of the first 6c.

FA: D. Anker & Gruber, 1988

1 6c+
2 7a
3 7a+
4 6a
5 5b
6 2
7 6c+
8 6b
9 6b
10 6a+
11 5b

Probably the easiest route on the Genferpfeiler (Geneva Pillar). Good intro to "Deep Blue Sea".

Rack: 12 quickdraws, Camalots 0.3-1

FA: Roger Schäli

FA: Hannes Pfeifhofer & Daniel Rogger, 2009

1 7a 40m
2 6b+ 30m
3 6c+ 30m
4 6b 45m
5 3a 30m
6 7a+ 25m
7 7a 35m
8 6c 25m
9 7a 35m
10 6a 25m

Topo, infos, report: http://mdettling.blogspot.com/2018/08/eiger-nordwand-adam-evi-7a-10-sl.html

Set: Marcel Dettling, Evelyne Rebsamen & Sepp Dettling

FFA: Marcel Dettling & Kathrin Dettling, 12 Aug 2018

1 6b+
2 6b+
3 7a
4 7b+
5 7a+
6 7a+
7 7a
8 7b+
9 4c

(7a obl.)2x50 Meter Seil (Beim Abseilen 2x60 Meter) Keile; 2-9, Frinds;05.-3, Express;11, Abseilen oder Abstieg über die Westflanke, Video

FA: Bernd Rathmayr & Reto Ruhstaller, 2001

1 6c 40m
2 7b+ 40m
3 8a 45m
4 6c+ 30m
5 7c+/8a 25m
6 7c/c+ 50m
7 7b+ 30m
8 4+ 40m
Gear
10 Quickdraws, 4 x 60cm slings, 2 x 120cm slings, 1 set totem cams.

Set: Sean Villanueva, Nina Caprez & Roger Schäli, Aug 2019

FFA: Roger Schäli, Jul 2020

1 6b+
2 7c
3 7a
4 8a
5 6b
6 6c+
7 6a
8 6c
9 4a

2x60 Meter Seil, Keile;1-9, Frinds;1-4, Express;14. Abseilen oder Abstieg über die Westflanke Interessante Leisten-, Wand- und Verschneidungskletterei. Die schwierige Seillängen sind gut abgesichert. Nuts, Cams

FA: Pierre-Alain Steiner & Paul Maillefer, 1983

1 4a
2 6a
3 5a
4 6b
5 5a
6 4b
7 6b+
8 6b+
9 6c+
10 7c
11 7a+
12 7a+
13 6c
14 7b
15 7a
16 7a+
17 7c+
18 6b

Sehr guter Fels und logische Linie zum Absprung der Basjumper auf dem Pilz. (6c+ obl.) 2x60 Meter, Express; 13, Frind;0.5, Abseilen oder Abstieg über die Westflanke

Set: R. Schäli & Ch. Hainz, 2007

1 4c 30m
2 6b+ 30m
3 6c 30m
4 7a 30m
5 6a 32m
6 6a+ 28m
7 6a 30m
8 6b 15m
9 6c 30m
10 2 20m

Camalot 0.4 to 1

FA: J. Allemann & D. Osswald, 2016

Alpine trad/sport climbing route in very good Eiger rock! All necessary pegs/bolts were left, 1 set of Camalots 01-2 recommended for mobile protection, 50 meter ropes, descent over west flank! Starts left of Golden Shower and exits via Ratatat.

FFA: Robert Jasper, 2019

1 6c 25m
2 7a 25m
3 6a+ 25m
4 7a 40m
5 5c 25m
6 6a+ 40m
7 7b 30m
8 7a 25m
9 6c 20m
10 5a 15m

Additional cams recommended.

Set: J. Allemann & A. Stadler, 2019

FFA: J. Allemann & A. Stadler, 30 Aug 2019

1 4a
2 5a
3 5a
4 6c+
5 6c+
6 7b
7 7b+
8 7c
9 7b+/c
10 7b+/c
11 6b
12 6b
13 6b
14 6b
15 6a+
16 7a+
17 7a+
18 6c+
19 7b
20 6b+
21 6b+
22 6b
23 6c+
24 6c
25 6b
26 6a

up the Rote Fluh - the steepest section on the entire face

FA: Daniel Anker & Stephan Siegrist, 1999

FFA: Stephan Siegrist & Ueli Steck, 2003

1 6b
2 6a
3 6a+
4 7b
5 7c+
6 7a
7 8a
8 7a+
9 6b+
10 6a+
11 6a
12 6a
13 7c+
14 7b+
15 7b
16 7a
17 6a
18 7a
19 7b+
20 7a
21 6c+
22 6b
23 6b
24 6b

FA: Stephan Siegrist & Ueli Steck, 2003

FFA: Ueli Steck, 2008

FA: 1969

FFA: Roger Schaeli & Robert Jasper, 2007

FA: Roger Schaeli, Robert Jasper & Simon Gietl, 2015

FA: René Ghilini & Michel Piola, 1983

FFA: Roger Schäli & Robert Jasper, 2 Aug 2013

FA: Anderl Heckmair, Ludwig Vörg, Fritz Kasparek & Heinrich Harrer, 1938

John Harlin lost his life during the first ascent.

FA: Dougal Haston, Sigi Hupfauer, Jörg Lehne, Günther Strobel & Roland Votteler, 1966

FFA: Robert Jasper & Roger Schäli, 2010

FA: Jeff Lowe, 1991

TD-, rock IV, ice up to 60°

FA: Hans Lauper, Alfred Zürcher, Josef Knubel & Alexander Graven, 1932

Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question

Activity

Check out what is happening in North Face.

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 中文