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Routes in Nordwand

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Showing all 21 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
6c Westgrat diekt
1 5b
2 6c
3 5c
4 5c
5 4b
6 4c
7 4a
8 5a

Eiger Norwand, Westausläufer 50 Metr Seil, Frinds;1-3, Keile;2-8, Express;10 Abstieg über die die Westflanke Zugang: Eigertrail bis zum GRashügel unter dem Rotstock. Hier zweigt der Zustieg zum Klettertsteigab, dem man nun folgt bis auf das beite Schuttband. Wenig weiter oben gebinnt die Route.

Set: D. Anker & M. Gruber, 1988

Sport 8
6c Löcherspiel
1 6a+
2 6b
3 6a
4 6b+
5 6a
6 6b+
7 6a+/b
8 6c
9 6c

Alternate finish with one pitch less and 5c+ to the right instead of the first 6c.

FA: D. Anker & Gruber, 1988

Sport 250m, 9, 12
7a+ Freakonomics
1 6c+
2 7a
3 7a+
4 6a
5 5b
6 2
7 6c+
8 6b
9 6b
10 6a+
11 5b

Probably the easiest route on the Genferpfeiler (Geneva Pillar). Good intro to "Deep Blue Sea".

Rack: 12 quickdraws, Camalots 0.3-1

FA: Roger Schäli

FA: Hannes Pfeifhofer & Daniel Rogger, 2009

Trad 320m, 11
7a+ Adam & Evi
1 7a 40m
2 6b+ 30m
3 6c+ 30m
4 6b 45m
5 3a 30m
6 7a+ 25m
7 7a 35m
8 6c 25m
9 7a 35m
10 6a 25m

Topo, infos, report: http://mdettling.blogspot.com/2018/08/eiger-nordwand-adam-evi-7a-10-sl.html

Set: Marcel Dettling, Evelyne Rebsamen & Sepp Dettling

FFA: Marcel Dettling & Kathrin Dettling, 12 Aug 2018

Sport 320m, 10, 64
7b+ Deep Blue Sea
1 6b+
2 6b+
3 7a
4 7b+
5 7a+
6 7a+
7 7a
8 7b+
9 4c

Mario Fullin und Reto Ruschti, haben am 20. August 2023 die Route saniert. (7a obl.)2x50 Meter Seil (Beim Abseilen 2x60 Meter) Keile; 2-9, Frinds;05.-3, Express;11, Abseilen oder Abstieg über die Westflanke, Video

FA: Bernd Rathmayr & Reto Ruhstaller, 2001

Maint: Mario Fulli & Reto Rutschi, 20 Aug 2023

Trad 320m, 9
8a Merci La Vie
1 6c 40m
2 7b+ 40m
3 8a 45m
4 6c+ 30m
5 7c+/8a 25m
6 7c/c+ 50m
7 7b+ 30m
8 4+ 40m
Gear
10 Quickdraws, 4 x 60cm slings, 2 x 120cm slings, 1 set totem cams.

Set: Sean Villanueva, Nina Caprez & Roger Schäli, Aug 2019

FFA: Roger Schäli, Jul 2020

Mixed trad 300m, 8, 8
8a Spit Verdonesque Edenté
1 6b+
2 7c
3 7a
4 8a
5 6b
6 6c+
7 6a
8 6c
9 4a

2x60 Meter Seil, Keile;1-9, Frinds;1-4, Express;14. Abseilen oder Abstieg über die Westflanke Interessante Leisten-, Wand- und Verschneidungskletterei. Die schwierige Seillängen sind gut abgesichert. Nuts, Cams

FA: Pierre-Alain Steiner & Paul Maillefer, 1983

Trad 300m
7c+ Magic Mushroom
1 4a
2 6a
3 5a
4 6b
5 5a
6 4b
7 6b+
8 6b+
9 6c+
10 7c
11 7a+
12 7a+
13 6c
14 7b
15 7a
16 7a+
17 7c+
18 6b

Sehr guter Fels und logische Linie zum Absprung der Basjumper auf dem Pilz. (6c+ obl.) 2x60 Meter, Express; 13, Frind;0.5, Abseilen oder Abstieg über die Westflanke

Set: R. Schäli & Ch. Hainz, 2007

Trad 600m
7a Ratatat
1 4c 30m
2 6b+ 30m
3 6c 30m
4 7a 30m
5 6a 32m
6 6a+ 28m
7 6a 30m
8 6b 15m
9 6c 30m
10 2 20m

Camalot 0.4 to 1

FA: J. Allemann & D. Osswald, 2016

Sport 280m, 10, 10
7a+ Meltdown

Alpine trad/sport climbing route in very good Eiger rock! All necessary pegs/bolts were left, 1 set of Camalots 01-2 recommended for mobile protection, 50 meter ropes, descent over west flank! Starts left of Golden Shower and exits via Ratatat.

FFA: Robert Jasper, 2019

Trad 11
7b Golden Shower
1 6c 25m
2 7a 25m
3 6a+ 25m
4 7a 40m
5 5c 25m
6 6a+ 40m
7 7b 30m
8 7a 25m
9 6c 20m
10 5a 15m

Additional cams recommended.

Set: J. Allemann & A. Stadler, 2019

FFA: J. Allemann & A. Stadler, 30 Aug 2019

Sport 270m, 10, 12
7c La Vida es Silbar
1 4a
2 5a
3 5a
4 6c+
5 6c+
6 7b
7 7b+
8 7c
9 7b+/c
10 7b+/c
11 6b
12 6b
13 6b
14 6b
15 6a+
16 7a+
17 7a+
18 6c+
19 7b
20 6b+
21 6b+
22 6b
23 6c+
24 6c
25 6b
26 6a

up the Rote Fluh - the steepest section on the entire face

FA: Daniel Anker & Stephan Siegrist, 1999

FFA: Stephan Siegrist & Ueli Steck, 2003

Alpine 900m, 27
8a Paciencia
1 6b
2 6a
3 6a+
4 7b
5 7c+
6 7a
7 8a
8 7a+
9 6b+
10 6a+
11 6a
12 6a
13 7c+
14 7b+
15 7b
16 7a
17 6a
18 7a
19 7b+
20 7a
21 6c+
22 6b
23 6b
24 6b

FA: Stephan Siegrist & Ueli Steck, 2003

FFA: Ueli Steck, 2008

Alpine 900m, 27
8a Japaner-Direttissima

FA: 1969

FFA: Roger Schaeli & Robert Jasper, 2007

Alpine
8a+ Odyssee

FA: Roger Schaeli, Robert Jasper & Simon Gietl, 2015

Trad 1400m, 33
7c Renaissance

The route is probably affected by a rockfall.Please avoid!

FA: Silvan Schüpbach & Peter von Känel, 23 Aug 2023

Trad 1200m, 30
7c Piola-Ghilini-Direttissima

The route is probably affected by a rockfall.Please avoid!

FA: René Ghilini & Michel Piola, 1983

FFA: Roger Schäli & Robert Jasper, 2013

Alpine 1400m
5 WI5 Heckmair-Route

FA: Anderl Heckmair, Ludwig Vörg, Fritz Kasparek & Heinrich Harrer, 1938

Alpine 1500m
7a UK:E5 MIXED:M8 John-Harlin-Direttissima

John Harlin lost his life during the first ascent.

FA: Dougal Haston, Sigi Hupfauer, Jörg Lehne, Günther Strobel & Roland Votteler, 1966

FFA: Robert Jasper & Roger Schäli, 2010

Alpine 1800m
7 A4 MIXED:M6 Métanoïa

FA: Jeff Lowe, 1991

Alpine 1800m
5 WI2 TD Lauper-Route

TD-, rock IV, ice up to 60°

FA: Hans Lauper, Alfred Zürcher, Josef Knubel & Alexander Graven, 1932

Alpine 1800m

Showing all 21 routes.

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