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Rätikon South

Seasonality

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Description

The Rätikon is a mountain range of the Central Eastern Alps located at the border between 'Vorarlberg', Liechtenstein and 'Graubünden'. It is the geological border between the Eastern and Western Alps and stretches from the 'Montafon' as far as the Rhine. In the south, the Prättigau is its limit, in the north the Walgau. In the east, it borders the 'Silvretta' groups. This node represents the swiss and south part of the Rätikon. The north part is located in Austria. With most routes being runout and either containing some aid or climbing of 7a or harder, the area is not as popular as the climbing quality and convenience of approach might suggest.

The best introductory guidebook seems to be Schweiz ExtremOst. This references route quality and quality of protection; both help for route selection. A single edition includes an Italian, German and English translation. Also checkout the Rätikon Climbing Leaflet (German); an guide book written by Thomas Wälti available from the Swiss Alpine Club. The area is also covered in the SAC KLETTERFÜHRER series, within the Graubunden region (German only). Also watch the video about the Rätikon broadcasted by Servus TV. The out-of-print 'Ratikon Sud' guide contains useful topos for cross reference. Some of these are available as photocopies in the hut.

Access issues

A fee applies for using the access road. This can be paid at the Poste Restaurant in Schuders, which also offers accommodation.

Approach

DON'T follow Google Maps. As of 2022 this has no idea how to link Schuders to Kletterhutte Pardutz and several mishaps have apparently occurred. It trys to take you off a cliff! Instead, continute uphill along the main sealed road through Schuders, take a right at the tee intersection in 800 meters, and follow the gravel road for a further ~10km to the second dairy (enormous milking shed). Take a left immediately before this and you will see a parking area 400 meters uphill on the left.

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