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Magic Wood

Seasonality

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Summary

One of the best and most famous bouldering areas in the world. Countless granite blocs scattered in a mystical pine forest next to a rushing river. It is hard to find anything more beautiful.

Description

Magic Wood is famous for many hard ascents, being a place where standards have been and are constantly being pushed. That being said, there is something for everyone and the sheer countless number of blocs will make it hard for anyone to run out of problems, no matter what grade you climb.

Some of the blocs are small but most are big, with treacherous landings and tricky approaches. So be sure to have good and preferably more than one spotter and plenty of crash pads.

The granite is rough and of exceptional quality and often with positive sharp holds. The rock dries surprisingly quickly and typically you are able to find dry lines even during a down pour.

The best season is from May to November. In summer Magic Wood is known to be one of the coolest bouldering areas in Europe. Be aware that during high-season in summer it can be very crowded and it can become quite challenging to find a spot for your tent on the campsite.

Next to the info available here the following topos of Magic Wood are available:

Access issues

There are a couple disagreements between the climbers and the local community. You can watch or listen to the following discussions:

Summarized
Be respectful to the nature and local communities. Also try to support the local businesses as much as possible.

Approach

Magic Wood is located in the canton Graubünden in south eastern Switzerland near the village Ausserferrera. Make your way to Thusis by train or car where you may also stock up on supplies. From Thusis take the bus to Andeer where you may have to switch to the bus to Juf. Get off at Schmelzi, which is directly across from the camping.

Parking fee: 5 CHF per day

Besides using public transportation, there are two parking areas:

Where to stay

You can camp at the Bodhi Camping or rent a room at the Gasthaus Edelweis.

Camp in the wild is strictly prohibited! Please respect the nature and the locals.

Areas

Add area(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades
Bach boulder field
203
635
3m
5
Mitte boulder field
324
621
4m
3
Beach boulder field
189
368
4m
3
Kamel boulder field
221
674
4m
8
Haupt 1 boulder field
177
183
5m
Haupt 2 boulder field
166
285
Haupt 3 boulder field
65
64
Swiss boulder field
39
46
Oben boulder field
71
5
2m

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Ulrich Röker & Harald Röker

Date: 2023

ISBN: 9783938680506

A comprehensive guidebook describing the wonderful bouldering at Magic Wood in southern Switzerland, covering over 1,450 routes.

Author(s): Florian Wenter & Lorenz Delago

Date: 2017

ISBN: 9783956110733

A selective guidebook covers the best bouldering areas in the central Alps across Switzerland, Germany, Austria and Italy, including Magic Wood and Mello.

Author(s): Christoph Klein & Jürgen Winkler

Date: 2023

ISBN: 978-3-95611-182-2

Hört, seht und staunt - alles in allem warten hier 120 Pause-Touren! DAS ultimative Werk für Extremkletterer und für alle die von den ganz großen Kletterrouten der Alpen träumen (wollen).

Im extremen Fels - Die "legendären" Alpinklettertouren in den Alpen

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Fri 23 Jun
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