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Promontoire S de l'aiguille sans nom

6

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

South (south-west) face below an unnamed peak on the southern arête leading to Aiguille Sans Nom in the Aiguilles Dorées massif.

Approach

Three hours from Cabane d'Orny (2h from Cabane de Trient) crossing Plateau du Trient until Fenêtre de Saleina, then trough Fenêtre de Suzanne. 45 minutes to the west from Bivouac de l'Envers des Droées.

Glacier equipment necessary for the approach.

Descent notes

Rappel

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route
1 4a
2 6a
3 5a
4 6a
5 5c
6 6a A0
7 6a
8 6a

The route starts on the left of a rocky couloir (rockfall danger!). There is a quite large, flat stone nearby that can be used for orientation on the approach.

Pitch 6: There is one difficult but short slightly overhanging boulder problem. Usually there's a sling installed on a bolt for aid.

Set: 1997

1 5c
2 5c
3 5c
4 5c
5 6a+
6 5c+
7 5c

5c obl.

Gear: Set of cams (sizes BD C4 0.3 - 2) and optionally nuts

Descent: Rappel the route.

Set: David Deplazes & Walter Josi, 2002

Set: Sandro Meier, 2010

1 5b
2 6a
3 5b
4 5c
5 6a
6 6a
7 6a
8 6a

Descent: Rappel the route.

Gear: single rack of cams

Set: Anne-Barbara Etter & Walter Josi, 2001

1 6a
2 6a
3 6c
4 5c
5 6a

Gear: Set of nuts and cams (sizes BD C4 0.3-1)

Descent: Rappel the route.

Set: Walter Josi & Beni Zweifel, 1988

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Sandro von Känel

Date: 2023

ISBN: 9783906087580

A selective guidebook describing a selection of rock climbing and sport climbing routes at grades from F6b and above, in the Western Swiss Alps, including Freiburg, Bernese Oberland, Vaud, plus the entire area of the Valais.

Author(s): Olivier Roduit

Date: 2022

Author(s): Sandro von Kanel

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9783906087535

A selective guidebook describing the rock climbing and sport climbing in the Western Swiss Alps and the French Alps, covering an area from Annecy in the French Alps to Big in the Swiss Alps.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Sun 23 Apr
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