Engelbergertal Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Engelbergertal 654 routes in Region

1 4 6 17 18 14 13 15 9 19 2 8 16 11 7 10 3 5 12

1 Dallenwil 2 Wissberg 3 Arena Spannort 4 Musentürme 5 Stäfeli 6 Wissiflue 7 Schlänggen 8 Engelsgrotte 9 Brunni 10 Fürenwand 11 Schlossberg 12 Titlis 13 Bettlerstock 14 Gross Sättelistock 15 Schyegg 16 Äbnet 17 Gummen 18 Ruchstock 19 Sporting Park Engelberg

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Seasonality

Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 46.853173, 8.437354

1.1. Dallenwil 13 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.937084, 8.387752

description

Topo: http://www.prime-engelberg.ch/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/Klettergarten_Dallenwil.pdf

1.2. Wissberg 57 routes in Crag

4 3 1 2

1 Sector a 2 Sector B 3 Sector C 4 Südost

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.814690, 8.481391

1.2.1. Sector a 25 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.810908, 8.475857

1.2.2. Sector B 11 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.810862, 8.475354

1.2.3. Sector C 13 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.810946, 8.476276

1.2.4. Südost 8 routes in Sector

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.817075, 8.485211

1.3. Arena Spannort 82 routes in Crag

8

8 Greiss

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.798384, 8.509957

1.3.1. Hüttenfelsen 10 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.3.2. Monggespel 20 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.3.3. Schafband 7 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.3.4. Zwösche de Bäche 12 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.3.5. Schwarzi Wand 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.3.6. Bella Vista 7 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.3.7. Piccolino 15 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.3.8. Greiss 7 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.801492, 8.511863

1.3.9. Räzelistock 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.4. Musentürme 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.930544, 8.437078

summary

Impressive lime stone towers above Niederrickenbach

description

Above Niederrickenbach lies the Musenalp, a plateau used by alpine farmers. In between is an impressive lime stone cliff featuring the beautiful Musen-towers (Musentürme).

access issues

Open from April to November. Closed in Winter due to wild life protection.

approach

Take the cable car from Station Niederrickenbach to Niederrickenbach Dorf or hike from Dallenwil.

From Niederrickenbach follow the white-red-white hiking trail towards Bleiki. After the trail enters the wood, follow it until you reach Bleikigraben where the trail crosses Hüetlerentobelbach (a creek) which may be dry.

Do not cross the creek and leave the trailto your right. Look for cairns (Steinmänner) and red dot markings. The first one is around 8meters before the creek. Follow these markings towards the east, steep uphill. The path may not be very clear and sometimes a little challenging, especially the very last piece. Always look for some more cairns and dots... there are a lot of them.

The crag is located approximately at 46.92958 N, 8.43637 E (or 675'981.34, 198'092.19 Swiss coordinates) at 1500 m elevation. But there is not yet the start of the route! From the rock follow some more cairns to the right into a shallow couloir and follow them for about 20m (altitude). The way is a bit zig-zagging upwards. Then some cairns lead you to the left of the couloir. From there traverse some more to your left and a bit upwards (it's a bit uncomfortable, pretty steep, not very many holds, dirty) until you reach a very small plateau between a tree and a rock. There you see faint red dots. From there climb upwards over that rock and between some trees until it gets a bit flatter. From there the track leads to the left slightly upwards to a small ridge. There is the start of the route Musenkante. Enjoy!

1.5. Stäfeli 273 routes in Sector

4 3 1 2

1 Parkplatz 2 Agent Orange 3 Stäfeli 4 Halfpippe

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 46.796403, 8.483642

description

Bouldering sector in the middle of an alpine valley

1.5.1. Parkplatz 77 routes in Sector

Summary:

Bouldering and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.793994, 8.472871

1.5.2. Agent Orange 6 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 46.793162, 8.479238

1.5.3. Stäfeli 138 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 46.798207, 8.488877

1.5.4. Halfpippe 52 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 46.798499, 8.499862

1.6. Wissiflue 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.914509, 8.387358

description

The crag designed by Matthias Trottmann is steep. Very steep! Thanks to its exposure (NE), it is also great on warm summer days. He is also rainproof because of the steep roofs.

descent notes

A 60m rope is enough.

1.7. Schlänggen 94 routes in Crag

3 1 2

1 Schlänggen 2 Upper Schlänggen 3 Vorder Schlänggen

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.800287, 8.444658

summary

Easy access. Parking at Furenalp Cable car car park.. 5chf... Bus also from Engelberg. Or walk. 40mins. Crag is north facing.Steep overhanging, can climb with lite rain. Flat area at base. Family friendly.

description

Steep, pumpey, long routes. Superb climbing. Recently re-bolted some routes.

approach

Follow path through BBQ area at the back of car park at Furenalp , over river. Follow to right , round the side of golf course...

where to stay

Camping at Eienwaldli campsite... Ski Lodge Engelberg... Good vibes... Beer 🍺 and Burgers

1.7.1. Schlänggen 46 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.800620, 8.445972

description

Perfect crag for warm summer days, because of the high altitude and the shady location.

• Kid friendly: Huge and flat base of the wall. Perfect for kids. You only have to be sightly carful because of the bicycle way.

history

CH:2021 wurde der komplette Sektor von René Schweizer und Reiner Eder Saniert, vielen Dank an www.Rebolting.ch für das zu Verfügung gestellte Material.

EN:In 2021 the entire sector was rebolted by René Schweizer and Reiner Eder, many thanks to www.Rebolting.ch for the material made available.

1.7.2. Upper Schlänggen 13 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.799968, 8.447732

1.7.3. Vorder Schlänggen 35 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.800994, 8.441996

1.8. Engelsgrotte 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.802993, 8.455292

description

The routs in the cave in the forest above the "Fürenalp" parking, are steep, very steep! Matthias Trottmann and Simon Wandeler have bolted Herne some tours which you can have a great fight to get up! The route "angel" (8b) is recommended.

approach

Park at the valley station of the Fürenalp cable car and follow the hiking trail direction Fürenalp to the first left turn. From here, the last meters are without any trail.

1.9. Brunni 11 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport climbing, Top roping and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 46.841418, 8.413138

summary

Brunni is a sunny area in Engelberg with different grade Via Ferrata and a climbing area suited for family climbing.

access issues

You can access the area with cable car/chair lift and then hike to the different routes.

1.10. Fürenwand 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Sport climbing, Alpine climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 46.799194, 8.463853

1.11. Schlossberg 20 routes in Crag

1 2 3 4

1 Gendarm 2 Klettergarten Schlossberg 3 Westwand 4 Südwestwand

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Aid climbing

Lat / Long: 46.802521, 8.513622

description

The routes starts at 2.000m.

approach

(46.7946845, 8.4674931)

where to stay

Spannorthütte SAC www.spannorthuette.ch

1.11.1. Gendarm 5 routes in Sector

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.803444, 8.511330

1.11.2. Klettergarten Schlossberg 5 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.802251, 8.512131

1.11.3. Westwand 5 routes in Sector

Summary:

Trad climbing and Aid climbing

Lat / Long: 46.801918, 8.512724

1.11.4. Südwestwand 5 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.800928, 8.513782

1.12. Titlis 26 routes in Area

2 5 1 3 4

1 Nordwand 2 Nordgrat 3 Ostwand 4 Südwand 5 Laubersgrat

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 46.780680, 8.432032

1.12.1. Nordwand 10 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.788888, 8.433113

1.12.2. Nordgrat 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.791216, 8.443758

1.12.3. Ostwand 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 46.779596, 8.440151

1.12.4. Südwand 5 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.769297, 8.429548

summary

Koordinaten 2 676450/1 180300, Höhe 2540 (Wasserkraft)

approach

Ab Wendenalp T5/ 3h30min, Steigesen und Pickel mitnehmen

where to stay

Grassenbiwak

1.12.5. Laubersgrat 9 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.789440, 8.416748

description

Topo: https://www.engelbergmountainguide.ch/2019/07/07/neuer-klettergarten-laubersgrat/

1.13. Bettlerstock 31 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.848412, 8.415124

1.14. Gross Sättelistock 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.851371, 8.435610

1.15. Schyegg 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.844376, 8.429779

1.16. Äbnet 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.802944, 8.491952

description

Topo: https://www.engelbergmountainguide.ch/sommer/klettern/klettergarten/klettergarten-aebnet/

1.17. Gummen 0 routes in Crag

1.18. Ruchstock 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.854422, 8.468446

summary

The Ruchstock is a mountain of the Urner Alps located between the Engelberg valley and the valley of the Reuss river (2813m ASL).

1.19. Sporting Park Engelberg 0 routes in Gym

description

Engelbergerstrasse 11 6390 Engelberg

http://de.sportingpark.ch/sports/klettern/