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Grade Route
1 5c+
2 5c+
3 5c
4 5c
5 4b

Die Route bleibt nach Regen länger Nass. Es sollten 2-3 trockene Tage abgewartet werden. Der Einstieg befindet sich in der Klein Chälen, direkt gegenüber vom Abstiegsweg der Westschulter vom kleinen Turm. Topo und Infos auf https://www.kletterschule.ch/topos/bockmattli.

Set: M. Schmed, K.Schmid & Th. Götz, 2015

1 3c 45m
2 4b 30m
3 4b 30m
4 3b 45m
5 5a 40m
6 4c 30m
7 5a 25m
8 4c 45m
9 3c 15m

Start at the bolted belay point marked with blue paint. Route follows an arete to top out to a small peak. All belay stations consist of a ring bolt and an expansion bolt. Protection consists of a mixture of expansion bolts and natural gear. The climb is occasionally run out, route finding is sometimes difficult and bailing could be complex. The rock quality is generally good but there is still plenty of loose rock on the route.

From the top it's possible to hike directly down the mountain via a valley to the right of the climb. It is also possible to hike to the summit of Bockmattli.

A complete topo is available in the Schweiz Plaisir Ost Guidebook.

Pitches:

  1. 3c To belay in cave.

  2. 4b Right out of the cave and then left and up to the next belay.

  3. 4b Start by heading right from belay ledge, and then up

  4. 3b Continue up left of the arete to the to comfortable belay ledge with possible bail path heading left

  5. 5a Follow exposed arete up to next belay

  6. 4c Follow steep ramp beside a crack up to belay

  7. 5a Crux of the route at the second bolt just

  8. 4c Follow blue markings to the left of the belay, then continue on along the dihedral (bolts). The third or fourth bolt is on a slab to the right after which a ledge traverses to the right. The belay is around the corner.

  9. 3c Along the ridge to the top.

1 4b 60m
2 5c+ 10m
3 6b 35m
4 4c 40m
5 6a 20m
6 6a 30m
7 5b 35m
8 5c 40m
9 5c 35m
10 5c+ 20m
11 6a 30m

1996 neu eingerichtet / saniert; allerdings weiterhin KK&Friends sehr nützlich

FA: C. Hauser & J. Hensler, 1959

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