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Description

A very big crag with lots of routes. For some, there might be to many routes, but one thing is clear: Everyone will find a route he likes.

Descent notes

As this sector is not vertical and on days with good weather often crowded, the savest and fastest way down is the small trail. The trail start on the summit and heads west.

Routes

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Grade Route
1 5c+ - 6b
2 5a
3 5a
4 5b
5 5c

Route starts 5m left from the big corner (Name is written on the rock and first bolt plate). First pitch has two versions. To the left "Risseinstieg", 5c+: slightly traversing left from the start for 2 bolts, then follow the big crag (and the visible bolts). Or you start straight up, then you have a 6b. After that you go around the corner to the left and follow the corner on the outer side for the next 2 pitches. The last two pitches go more or less straigt up. 10 Runners are sufficient, you might feel better adding a few slings here and there.

FA: Hans Fischli & Chäpp Schindler, 1964

Set by Hans Fischli & Chäpp Schindler, 1964

1 5b
2 4c
3 6a
4 5a
5 5c+
6 3c
7 6a

Route starts approx. 50 right of the backpack depot. Route name is written at the base, the line is marked in orange (easy to follow). The third pitch traverses to the left in the upper part, the fourth goes first further left and then quite straight up. 12 Runners are usually enough.

1 5b
2 5b
3 5c+
4 5c+
5 5b
6 5c
7 5b

Route is marked at the start. The first pitch is atypical trough a chimney and small roof. The rest is typical Brüggler slab. The second ptich is long. - Bring at least 12 quickdraws. - A 50m single rope is just enough for the second pitch. - There is some opportunity to place mid-sized cams (BD size 0.4-1) or nuts to calm the nerves.

Walk off to the left (towards the summit cross) and follow a blue-white marked trail back down to the base of the cliff.

Set by Christof Klingler, Andrea Gaffuri, Ruedi Jenny & Felix Ortlieb, 2018

1 4c
2 4c
3 4c

Very good winter-climb. Meanwhile well bolted - no additional material needed.

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