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Südwand

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Description

A very big crag with lots of routes. For some, there might be to many routes, but one thing is clear: Everyone will find a route they like.

Descent notes

As this sector is not vertical and on days with good weather often crowded, the safest and fastest way down is the small trail. The trail start on the summit and heads west.

Routes

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Grade Route
1 5c+ - 6b
2 5a
3 5a
4 5b
5 5c

Route starts 5m left from the big corner (Name is written on the rock and first bolt plate). First pitch has two versions. To the left "Risseinstieg", 5c+: slightly traversing left from the start for 2 bolts, then follow the big crag (and the visible bolts). Or you start straight up, then you have a 6b. After that you go around the corner to the left and follow the corner on the outer side for the next 2 pitches. The last two pitches go more or less straigt up. 10 Runners are sufficient, you might feel better adding a few slings here and there.

FA: Hans Fischli & Chäpp Schindler, 1964

Set: Hans Fischli & Chäpp Schindler, 1964

1 5c+
2 6a
3 6a
4 5c
5 6a+
6 6b
7 6c+
8 5c
1 5c+
2 6a
3 6a
4 5c
5 6a+
6 6b
7 6b
8 6a
1 5a
2 5c+
3 6a+
4 5c
5 5c+
6 6b
7 6a+

Renovated in 2007. 7 pitches of slab chains in total and well secured. One should take min. 12 quickdraws. Last pitch exit variant possible via 6a+.

1 5b
2 4c
3 6a
4 5a
5 5c+
6 3c
7 6a

Route starts approx. 50 right of the backpack depot. Route name is written at the base, the line is marked in orange (easy to follow). The third pitch traverses to the left in the upper part, the fourth goes first further left and then quite straight up. 12 Runners are usually enough.

1 5a 20m
2 5c 40m
3 5c+ 40m
4 6b 40m
5 5c+ 40m
6 6a 30m
7 5a 30m
8 6b 20m
1 5a
2 5c
3 5b
4 5c+
5 5c
6 6a
7 5c

Abwechslungsreich mit schönem Quergang. Weiterweg über 'Sonntagsweg' oder 'Kleine Verschneidung' möglich

1 4
2 5c
3 6a
4 6b
5 5c
6 5b
7 6b
1 5b
2 5b
3 5c+
4 5c+
5 5b
6 5c
7 5b

Route is marked at the start. The first pitch is atypical trough a chimney and small roof. The rest is typical Brüggler slab. The second ptich is long. - Bring at least 12 quickdraws. - A 50m single rope is just enough for the second pitch. - There is some opportunity to place mid-sized cams (BD size 0.4-1) or nuts to calm the nerves.

Walk off to the left (towards the summit cross) and follow a blue-white marked trail back down to the base of the cliff.

Set: Christof Klingler, Andrea Gaffuri, Ruedi Jenny & Felix Ortlieb, 2018

1 6a 25m
2 5c 45m
3 6a+ 30m
4 5c 40m
5 5c 35m
6 4b 20m
7 5a 40m

Start at two bolts with rings, Name is on steel plate. The last three pitches are shared with 'Direkte Plattenwand'. In second pitch 'Direkte Plattenwand' crosses from right to left. Friend 2 can be useful in pitch 4, otherwise 12 quickdraws and some slings to combine bolts on belay stand are sufficient.

1 4c
2 4c
3 5a
4 5a
5 5b
6 5c
7 4b
8 5a
1 5a 25m
2 5a 25m
3 5b 35m
4 5a 25m
5 5a 25m
6 5a 30m
7 5a 50m
1 5c 50m
2 5c+ 50m
3 5c 40m
4 5c+ 20m
5 5c 30m
1 4a 40m
2 4b 35m
3 4c 45m
4 5a 30m
5 4c 40m
6 4b 25m
1 5a 30m
2 5c+ 45m
3 5a 45m
4 5b 45m
5 5b 45m
6 5a 20m
7 5a 30m
1 3+ 45m
2 3 40m
3 3+ 40m
4 4+ 35m
5 4 40m
6 4 40m
1 4c 40m
2 4b 40m
3 4b 30m
4 4c 30m
1 4c
2 4b
3 4b
4 4c

50m rope required, the routes name and leaving direction is marked at every anchor.

FA: Marcel Dettling & Josef Dettling, 1996

1 4c
2 4c
3 4c

Very good winter-climb. Meanwhile well bolted - no additional material needed.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Christoph Klein & Jürgen Winkler

Date: 2023

ISBN: 978-3-95611-182-2

Author(s): Adi Stocker

Date: 2014

ISBN: 978-3-95611-022-1

On the 44,000 meters of climbing researched for this book, epochal alpine milestones mingle with enjoyable new route creations. Climbing legends such as Albert Precht, Klaus Hoi and Heinz Zak comment on their passion for steep rock. Routes by climbing greats from long ago, such as Angelo Dibona or Hias Rebitsch, have been accurately recorded in line with modern requirements. There is also plenty of space dedicated to new routes secured with bolts by creative talents such as Ralf Sussmann, Rudi Kühberger and the author himself. 40 long routes with at least 20 pitches, where you can clip bolts in keeping with the spirit of the times, but sometimes also have to make do with rusty protection.

Author(s): Ulrich & Harald Röker

Date: 2023

ISBN: 9783938680513

All important bouldering areas of northern Switzerland, including the high passes, are presented in detail / 17 bouldering hot spots with over 4150 boulder problems between Schaffhausen and the main ridge of the Alps. It covers Kesslerloch, Magic Wood, Engelberg, Blattiswald, Morschach, Schöllenen, Göschenen, Gotthardpass, Nufenenpass, Minstigertal, Furkapass, Sustenpass, Steingletscher, Grimselpass, Fuxenstein, Kandersteg, Goppenstein.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Thu 20 Jul
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