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Approach

From Wildhaus / Alt St.Johann : Take the lift to the top of the Chaserugg. Walk towards the Tristencholben and go down the steep corridor. Turn right at one of the 2 main grassy terraces (higher terrace (47.144811, 9.328678) - lower terrace (47.143745, 9.329964)), depending on which route you are targetting. A few abseil lines may help you in some of the steep down climbing sections. Mind the lose rocks especially if you are not alone in the corridor ! From Lüsis (the hard way - bad path, very exhausting) >2h : take the path at the Lüsis berghaus. After a short walk turn right (47.136833, 9.328781) and walk up straight into the rocky/river path on your right towards the bottom of the Tristencholben (47.143745, 9.329964). From here, depending on the routes you are targetting, you can take the "path" on your left or keep going up to the higher terrace. To get to the higher terrace, easy climb through a diedral corridor and a steep walk into grassy slope to get to the point (47.144811, 9.328678) where you can turn left and walk the grassy terrace to the bottom of the routes.

Descent notes

To Wildhaus / Alt St.Johann : from the Rosendoben summit, walk towards the Chaserugg and take the lift down. To Lüsis (the hard way - bad path, very exhausting) >1h30 : Walk towards the Tristencholben and go down the steep corridor. Turn slightly right 50 m after the first abseil line to descend into the next "corridor" on the right (somewhere here (47.144811, 9.328678)). Keep going down and reach a much narrow corridor in front of you, between 2 little peaks. after 40 m, to the left, you will find another abseil line. Once abseiled down you should be at these coordinates (47.143745, 9.329964). Follow the rocky/river "path" straight down to Lüsis. Mind the lose rocks all the way in the corridor, especially if you are not alone !

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route
1 5b 30m
2 6a+ 50m
3 6a 35m
4 5c 40m
5 6a 45m
6 5c+ 45m
7 5c+ 40m
8 5a 20m
9 1 30m
10 5a 40m
11 5c+ 35m
12 4a 45m
13 5a 25m
1 6a 35m
2 5c 25m
3 4c 45m
4 3c 20m
5 4b 20m
6 1 150m
7 4b 50m
8 4a 40m
9 5c 35m
10 4b 30m
11 5a 30m
12 2a 30m

Die sechste Länge führt über das Band ca 150 m Richtung Osten. Dort neben Luftibus & Fata Morgana in gerader Linie nach oben.

1 2 20m
2 6 40m
3 6- 40m
4 A0 15m
5 6+ 25m
6 4+ 50m

Very good route on excellent rock and very well secured (no need of any trad gear at all). The big roof is a unique (and exhausting) experience. Bolts in the latest meters are sometimes challenging to reach and you need to remember that you can use the rock again to help. Slings would make it but ladders bring a relative but very welcome comfort. A minimum of 12 quickdraws are required to pass the roof.

1 7a 30m
2 6c 45m
3 3c 30m
4 6a 40m
5 6a+ 35m
6 6a+ 15m
7 6c+ 50m
8 6b 50m

KK + F 1 - 2

FA: Marcel Schmed, Stefi Furger & Martin Heer, 1995

1 6c+7c 30m
2 6b 45m
3 5c 35m
4 7c 25m
5 6b 40m
6 5c 25m
7 6a+ 20m
8 6c+ 45m
9 6b 30m
10 7a 25m
11 35m

evtl. F. 3+3,5 in 10. SL

FA: Daniel Benz, Patricia Moser, Thierry Röthlisberger & Martin Stöck, 2003

1 6c+ 25m
2 7aAe 25m
3 7c
4 1 30m
5 6c+ 30m
6 1 40m
7 7a+ 60m
8 6c 35m
9 6c 45m
10 25m
11 5c+ 45m
1 4c 35m
2 6b 35m
3 5c+ 45m
4 5a 40m
5 5c+ 40m
6 1 70m
7 4b 40m
8 5c+ 45m
9 3a 40m
10 6c+ 30m
11 5c 40m
12 4c 40m
1 6b+ 40m
2 6a+ 15m
3 5b 25m
4 6a 45m
5 4a 35m
6 6a+ 25m
7 1 100m
8 4b 45m
9 5b 40m
10 5b 35m
11 6a 25m
12 6a 30m
13 2 40m
14 5c 25m
1 5c 35m
2 6a 30m
3 5b 35m
4 4b 25m
5 3c 30m
1 5c+ 35m
2 6c+ 40m
3 5b 40m
4 5b 25m
5 3c

Startet wie Scherrer-Wachter-Pfeiler Ggf. 1er Friend oder Keile.

Set: Daniel Benz & Lilo Müller, 2003

1 7a 45m
2 6a+ 35m
3 5c+ 15m

Startet auf dem Band der 7.Sl der Südwand

FA: Thomas Wälti & Christoph Angst

1 5b 50m
2 4b 40m
3 6a+ A1 40m
4 4b 20m
5 4c 45m
6 2a 20m
7 5b 30m
1 5b 40m
2 5c+ 45m
3 5c 25m
4 5c 40m
5 1 200m
6 6a 35m
7 5b 40m
8 6a 20m
9 5a 15m
10 5c 25m
11 5b 30m
1 5a 45m
2 6b 30m
3 5c 25m
4 6a 20m
5 5b 45m
6 3a 70m
7 4b 40m
8 3c 30m
9 6a+ 40m
10 5b 40m
11 3a 35m
1 5c+ 35m
2 6b+ 35m
3 6b+ 25m
4 6b+ 22m
5 6c+ 34m
6 2a 15m

Exact location unpublished.

Completely bolted but a bit run out.

Topo can be found on website of Th. Wälti.

FA: Cora Vogel & Thomas Wälti, 18 Oct 2019

FFA: Cora Vogel, 27 Oct 2019

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