A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
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Table of contents
- 1.
Chäserrugg
30 in Crag
- 1.1. Rosskirche 7 in Cliff
- 1.2. Rosenboden 15 in Cliff
- 1.3. Tristencholben 8 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Chäserrugg 30 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Aid climbing
Lat / Long: 47.149962, 9.319473
1.1. Rosskirche 7 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 47.149672, 9.315148
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Westroute | 5a | 85m, 4 | |||||
| 2 | Nordroute | 6b | 3 | |||||
| 3 | Direkte Ostroute | 6b+ | 70m, 3 | |||||
| 4 | Südostroute | 6a+ | 45m, 2 | |||||
| 5 | Ostkamin | 5a | 95m, 4 | |||||
| 6 | Südwand | 7b | 95m, 4 | |||||
| 7 | Südwestroute | 5c | 100m, 4 | |||||
1.2. Rosenboden 15 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Aid climbing
Lat / Long: 47.150523, 9.314441
approach
From Wildhaus / Alt St.Johann : Take the lift to the top of the Chaserugg. Walk towards the Tristencholben and go down the steep corridor. Turn right at one of the 2 main grassy terraces (higher terrace (47.144811, 9.328678) - lower terrace (47.143745, 9.329964)), depending on which route you are targetting. A few abseil lines may help you in some of the steep down climbing sections. Mind the lose rocks especially if you are not alone in the corridor ! From Lüsis (the hard way - bad path, very exhausting) >2h : take the path at the Lüsis berghaus. After a short walk turn right (47.136833, 9.328781) and walk up straight into the rocky/river path on your right towards the bottom of the Tristencholben (47.143745, 9.329964). From here, depending on the routes you are targetting, you can take the "path" on your left or keep going up to the higher terrace. To get to the higher terrace, easy climb through a diedral corridor and a steep walk into grassy slope to get to the point (47.144811, 9.328678) where you can turn left and walk the grassy terrace to the bottom of the routes.
descent notes
To Wildhaus / Alt St.Johann : from the Rosendoben summit, walk towards the Chaserugg and take the lift down. To Lüsis (the hard way - bad path, very exhausting) >1h30 : Walk towards the Tristencholben and go down the steep corridor. Turn slightly right 50 m after the first abseil line to descend into the next "corridor" on the right (somewhere here (47.144811, 9.328678)). Keep going down and reach a much narrow corridor in front of you, between 2 little peaks. after 40 m, to the left, you will find another abseil line. Once abseiled down you should be at these coordinates (47.143745, 9.329964). Follow the rocky/river "path" straight down to Lüsis. Mind the lose rocks all the way in the corridor, especially if you are not alone !
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | KCC Führe | 6a+ | 480m, 12 | |||
| 2 |
Südwand
Die sechste Länge führt über das Band ca 150 m Richtung Osten. Dort neben Luftibus & Fata Morgana in gerader Linie nach oben. | 6a | 510m, 12 | |||
| 3 |
★★ Dach
Very good route on excellent rock and very well secured (no need of any trad gear at all). The big roof is a unique (and exhausting) experience. Bolts in the latest meters are sometimes challenging to reach and you need to remember that you can use the rock again to help. Slings would make it but ladders bring a relative but very welcome comfort. A minimum of 12 quickdraws are required to pass the roof. | {UIAA} 6+ A0 | 190m, 6 | |||
| 4 |
Himmelsleiter
KK + F 1 - 2 FA: Marcel Schmed, Stefi Furger & Martin Heer, 1995 | 7a | 300m, 8 | |||
| 5 |
Hakuna Matta
evtl. F. 3+3,5 in 10. SL FA: Daniel Benz, Patricia Moser, Thierry Röthlisberger & Martin Stöck, 2003 | 7c | 360m, 11 | |||
| 6 | Büchsäöffner | 7c | 360m, 9 | |||
| 7 | Luftibus | 6c+ | 500m, 12 | |||
| 8 | Fata Morgana | 6b+ | 530m, 14 | |||
| 9 | Scherrer-Wachter-Pfeiler | 6a | 160m, 5 | |||
| 10 |
Di Chalt Sophie / Die Kalte Sophie
Startet wie Scherrer-Wachter-Pfeiler Ggf. 1er Friend oder Keile. Set: Daniel Benz & Lilo Müller, 2003 | 6c+ | 140m, 4 | |||
| 11 |
Yellow Moon
Startet auf dem Band der 7.Sl der Südwand FA: Thomas Wälti & Christoph Angst | 7a | 95m, 3 | |||
| 12 | Murmelstier | 6a+ A1 | 250m, 7 | |||
| 13 | Tanz der Vampire oder Schweine im Weltall | 6a | 520m, 11 | |||
| 14 | Grischapfeiler | 6b | 420m, 11 | |||
| 15 |
DaCora
Exact location unpublished. Completely bolted but a bit run out. Topo can be found on website of Th. Wälti. FA: Cora Vogel & Thomas Wälti, 18 Oct 2019 FFA: Cora Vogel, 27 Oct 2019 | 6c+ | 170m, 6 | |||
1.3. Tristencholben 8 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 47.145969, 9.328594
approach
Von der Bergstation Chäserrugg gegen Osten linkshaltend über den flachen Rosenböden und in den Sattel vor dem Tristencholben. Die grasige Rinne vor dem Tricstencholben rund 30 m absteigen bis sie zunehmend felsdurchsetzt wird (gefährlich / rutschig bei Nässe!). Ca. 5 m unter den ersten Felsplatten in der Rinne findet sich in einer Felsnase an der Flanke des Tristencholben ein Klebehaken. Von hier rund 45 m abseilen und dabei die Rinne zu einem Kettenstand auf der gegenüberliegenden Seite queren. Vom Kettenstand noch einmal über eine Felsstufe abseilen bis wieder Gehgelände erreicht wird. Der Start befindet sich bei einem weiteren Klebehaken rund 55 m unter dem Kettenstand.
descent notes
Rund 2-3 m nordseitig des Gipfels über einen Stand zurück zum Sattel abseilen (ca. 40 m).
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Cliff ahoi | 7b | 3 | |||
| 2 | I dr Schoonziit | 6c | 4 | |||
| 3 | Stiärägrind | 6a | 5 | |||
| 4 |
★★★ Munigrind
Die vorhandene Absicherung ist im Allgemeinen ausreichend, wenn man sich in alpinen Routen des entsprechenden Schwierigkeitsgrades wohlfühlt (4-6 m Hakenabstand). Zusätzliche Absicherung mit Friends und Keilen nach Bedarf gut möglich. | 4c | 160m, 6 | |||
| 5 | Alte Süd | 4a | 210m, 7 | |||
| 6 | Jabadabadu | 6b | 6 | |||
| 7 |
Komm babel ned
Ausstiegsvariante zu Munigrind. Rechts abgehend nach drittem Stand. | 5b+ | 3 | |||
| 8 |
Ostroute
FA: Thomas Wälti & Tin Frehner, 2003 | 6a | 190m, 5 | |||
