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Description

One of the classic big wall sites in Switzerland. This cliff offers great long multipitch routes with a big variety in route and pitch difficulty.

All the routes are equipped (points and anchor). The hardest pitches of a route are well protected but the protections in easier sections are far apart. Trad protection can be useful.

Approach

There is a big parking lot at the end of the Solalex road leading up to the cliff (+/- 200 cars). There is also the possibility of parking near the refuge and the restaurant Miroir d'Argentine. From the first parking lot, take the hiking trail on the right hand side of the wooden shack, cross the bridge and take a left. Proceed over the pasture for about 250m to find a path starting near the tree line and leading up to the face of the wall. Expect steep walking for 45-60 minutes.

Descent notes

The downclimb is long, steep and sometimes risky. From the foot of the 6a pitch leading up to the cross (southeast or backside of the cliff) start heading North (or right hand side facing the pitch) along a small trail. After about ten minutes the trail suddenly seems to end - scramble up the wall for about 5m to continue the trail. Follow it down for about 30 minutes to a point where the trail separates in two trails. The left trail leads down to the alpine pasture next to the parking lot, takes about 1h to 1h30 of walking and scrambling and is steep and dangerous after rainfall. The right trail leads to the Solalex road and takes another 2h.

Ethic inherited from Waadtländer Alpen

Always ask the local climbers before rebolting or modifying a local route.

A lot of stuff has been bolted by the Remy brothers, you'll find their contact in the local topo guide.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route
1 5a 35m
2 6b 30m
3 6b 49m
4 6a 50m
5 5b+ 42m
6 5c+ 45m
7 5c 50m
8 6b 25m
9 6a+ 25m
10 4c 45m
11 4c 48m
12 4c 48m
13 4b 35m

(6a+ obl.)

Topo available from Rebolting.

FA: Urs Wildeisen & Raphael, 2015

  1. 5b

  2. 5c

  3. 5c+

  4. 5c

  5. 4c

  6. 4a

  7. 5b

  8. 5b

  9. 5b

  10. 5b

  11. 3c

  12. 4c

  13. 3c

  14. 3b

  1. 6a+

  2. 6a+

  3. 6b

  4. 2a

  5. 5c

  6. 5b

  7. 4c

  8. 4c

  9. 4c

  10. 5a

  11. 5a

  12. 6a+

  13. 6b, or 6a+ if helping with the bolts

  14. 3a

  15. 3a

Set: claude Remy & Yves Remy, 1997

The historical route, set in 1926.

  1. 3b

  2. 4c+

  3. 1a: walking on a 6m-8m wide ledge

  4. 5c+ or 4a if helping with the bolts

  5. 5b

  6. 3c

  7. 3a

  8. 3b

  9. 3a

  10. 4a

  11. 3c

  12. 3c

  13. 4a

  14. 4b

Set: F.Delisle, Ch. Rathgeb & A. Moreillon, 1926

Great classic route on this gorgeous slab, with not too many bolts altogether. A few cams and some slings would be useful. Prepare for the mental challenge of climbing well above your bolts on easy pitches. Prepare for the cold, in late summer there's no sun until the top. Consider topping the cross by adding a 6a route.

  1. (5a) Straight up in the corner (metallic sign at the start)

  2. (4a) Stay in the corner, avoid the bolts on the left-hand slab

  3. (5a) Up the slippery chimney

  4. (4a) Still in the corner, few bolts but a lot of jammed stones - use your slings! Some bolts can be up to 10m apart.

  5. (5a) From the anchor point on top of P4, move left about 10 meters on the ridge to find another anchor. In between these two there are two more routes ('Zygofolis' and 'Divine Martine', both names are written next to the start). The continuation of 'Directe' goes straight up and then continues slightly to the right. Placing trad gear is advised as this is the first route on the slab part, with bolts placed 5 to 10m apart.

  6. (4a) Follow the big crack slightly to the right.

  7. (4c) Idem dito.

  8. (4a) Follow the crack to reach the ledge. There's one anchor point just below the next pitch and one on the bigger ridge below.

  9. (5a) Follow the small diagonal crack that goes slightly left.

  10. (5a) Idem dito.

  11. (4a) Keep right. On the left hand side you'll find bolts of the route 'Normale / Y'.

  12. (4b / 5a) Follow the slab to the lowest point of the ridge ahead, climb over the ridge while keeping right.

Set: C. Gollut, E. Wattenhofer & J. Winistorfer, 1963

  1. 5c

  2. 6a+

  3. 5c

  4. 6a

  5. 6a

  6. 5c+

  7. 7a+, or 6a with the help of the bolts

  8. 5c

  9. 5c

  10. 5b

  11. 5b

  12. 5b

  13. 4b

  14. 6b

  15. 6b

Set: Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2003

Set: Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 1997

Exits: Either along the ridge toward the top of the route "Remyxte" or rappelling down the route "Lyre".

  1. 6b

  2. 6a

  3. 5c

  4. 2a

  5. 6b

  6. 6a

  7. 6c

  8. 5c

  9. 6a

  10. 6a

  11. 6c

  12. 6b+

  13. 4b

  14. 4a

  15. 6c+

  16. 5b

Set: Yves Remy & Claude Remy, 1997

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