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Description

The first pitches of the routes 'Remy Martin' and 'Dicksack' feature technical and slabby climbing. In 'Hammerfinger' and 'Schlegeltoopä' you climb at big pockets and small crags. The upper part of the wall offers athletic climbing at sharp pockets and small cracks.

The routes 'Gizgnäpper' shares the start first pitch with 'Dicksack' but then heads left over a steep convexity with sharp pockets.

The second pitch of 'Hammerfinger' is equal to the second pitch of 'Remy Martin' until you reach the second M10 bolt. From there the route goes straight into direction of the next gluebolt.

10-12 quick draws are sufficient. Trad gear may be used if necessary.

Ideal conditions are to be found at hot summer days because the wall is in the shades until noon and cool winds blow through the ravine. In the autumn and winter season the low sun heats the wall from noon until the sunset.

Guide book as PDF in German (Thanks to R. Bürge)

Descent notes

Rappelling is possible with with 50 meter half ropes once or twice with a single rope of at least 60 meters. Use the anchors of the routes 'Giiznäpper' , 'Hammerfinger' or 'Remy Martin'. If necessary every gluebolt can be used as an anchor to rappel. Additional Maillons are not needed.

Ethic inherited from Alpstein

Sport climbs are very well protected but the historic multi pitch routes are sometime strange bolted and you have to take long run outs. Generally it is a good advice to bring some gear to improve protection where necessary.

New routes should be discussed with local authorities and the Swiss Alpine Club (SAC) before hand. Especially if routes may distract animals and destroy vegetation.

History

History timeline chart

The first route was set by R. Salvinin and M. Baumeister in the year 2000. After that the main development was done by R. Bürge. In 2013 and 2014 he added 4 routes and opened two projects.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route
1 5c 25m
2 6a+ 30m

Set by R. Salvini & M. Baumeister, 2000

1 5b+ 25m
2 6c 20m
3 6b+ 10m

Set by R. Bürge, Nov 2013

Set by R. Bürge, Nov 2013

1 5c 25m
2 6b+ 25m

Set by R. Bürge, May 2014

1 5c 20m
2 6a+ 20m

Set Jun 2014

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