Very nice route in the area. If you want to climb one good route in the area, this might be a very good choice.
Plan the approach and check the pictures to make sure you find the base easily.
Important info:
On the first pitch (with two anchors at the ground), if you take the leftish route (right seems like a new route), be aware that there will be a long run out (at 3rd bolt). Stick to the right crack which is much easier than the left side. When belaying I was ready to run down the slope to avoid any ground fall.
the 6th pitch is rated 5c but feels more like a 6a/6a+ (Fabian has rated this 6a+ - Hubert rates 6a).
28 Jun 1981 | First ascent: Christel Howald Feederle, Hans Howald-Feederle & Andreas Walder |
---|---|
2004 | Route setter:
Route maintenance |
6a, 5c+, 5c+, 5c+, 6a+, 5c (6a?), 6b | Assigned grade |
6b | Nicky |
6b+ [6b - 6c] ++ | grAId |
Sport climbs are very well protected but the historic multi pitch routes are sometime strange bolted and you have to take long run outs. Generally it is a good advice to bring some gear to improve protection where necessary.
New routes should be discussed with local authorities and the Swiss Alpine Club (SAC) before hand. Especially if routes may distract animals and destroy vegetation.
Overall quality 79 from 13 ratings.
Author(s): T. Wälti
Date: 2023
Amden / Churfirsten / Sarganserland / Alvier / Liechtenstein: über 60 Klettergebiete – vom Klettergarten bis zur wilden Alpinroute
Author(s): Christoph Klein & Jürgen Winkler
Date: 2023
ISBN: 978-3-95611-182-2
Hört, seht und staunt - alles in allem warten hier 120 Pause-Touren! DAS ultimative Werk für Extremkletterer und für alle die von den ganz großen Kletterrouten der Alpen träumen (wollen).
Im extremen Fels - Die "legendären" Alpinklettertouren in den Alpen
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