Routes: Routes in Schafbergwand

Grade	Route	Gear style
Eremitensohn
6b+	★★ Tantä Neva FFA: 2012	Sport 35m
5c	Eremitensohn	Sport 70m, 2
6c	★★★ Oh Helena FFA: 2012	Sport 25m
5b	★ Oh Myrta	Mixed trad 70m, 2, 3
5c+	Kafipausä FFA: 2012	Sport 23m
7a+	Kafitantä FFA: 2012	Sport 25m
6c+	★★★ Zikzak FFA: 2012	Sport 25m
6c	Schnäderlisä FFA: 2012	Sport 25m
7a	Fakir Riss FFA: 2012	Sport 20m
6c	Dächli	Mixed trad 15m, 3
6a+	Schniknack FFA: 2011	Sport 18m
7a	Chrampfoderä FFA: 2011	Sport 15m
6c	Mozafati FFA: 2012	Sport 15m
6a	Ost Riss 1 6a 25m 2 6a 20m FFA: 2011	Trad 45m, 2
4a	Zwerg Zwack FFA: 2013	Sport 8m
4a	Prinz Mägerli FFA: 2013	Sport 8m
Steile Wand
6a+	★★ Remy Martin 1 5c 25m 2 6a+ 30m Set: R. Salvini & M. Baumeister, 2000	Sport 55m, 2
6c	★★★ Dicksack 1 5b+ 25m 2 6c 20m 3 6b+ 10m Set: R. Bürge, 2013	Sport 55m, 3
6c	Giiznäpper Set: R. Bürge, 2013	Sport 10m
6b+	Hammerfinger 1 5c 25m 2 6b+ 25m Set: R. Bürge, May 2014	Sport 50m, 2
6a+	Schlegeltoopä 1 5c 20m 2 6a+ 20m Set: Jun 2014	Sport 40m, 2
Vorbauturm, kalte Wand
7a	★★★ Jommerlisä 70m rope FFA: R. Bürge, 2011	Sport 35m, 16
6a	Jommeri FFA: R. Bürge, 2011	Sport 20m
5a	★ Türmli Set: R. Bürge, 2011	Sport 15m
4c	Bergschtiiger FFA: R. Bürge, 2011	Sport 15m
6c+/7a	Luuspeiz 1 6c+ 15m 2 6c+/7a 10m 3 5a 15m Set: R. Bürge, 2013	Sport 40m, 3
6c	Giftnudlä FFA: R. Bürge, 2013	Sport 15m
5c	Schnudi Set: R. Bürge, 2013	Sport 15m
7a+	Sonderling Set: F. Schäfer & F. Umlauft, 1991	Sport 40m, 3
7a	Kalte Wand Set: 2013	Sport 20m
6c+/7a	Susu 1 5b+ 15m 2 6c+/7a 15m 3 5a 10m Set: R. Bürge, 2013	Sport 40m, 3
6c+	Kante direkt 1 6a 25m 2 6c+ 10m Set: R. Salvini & M. Baumeler, 2000	Sport 35m, 2, 12
Kein Wasser, Kein Mond
5c+	★★★ Schafbergkante Very popular multi pitch route at the 'Schafbergwand'. The route follows the arete from west to east. A must for visitors of this crag. A detailed description in the blog by Marcel Dettling	Mixed trad 400m, 12, 10
6b	★★★ Westriss 1 6a+ 2 6b 3 5c+ 4 4c Belay bolted. 2 racks friends, nuts and hex nuts. 2x50m. Some bolt are present in the critical passage but need definitively extra protection. Mainly Friends from 0.5 until 5 max (BD). Double rack needed for #1,2,3,4. FA: Christel Howald-Feederle & Hans Howald-Feederle, 1981	Trad 3
7a	Luftschloss 1 7a 2 7a 3 6a+ Nuts and Friends 0.5-3.	Sport 3
7c	★★★ Kein Wasser, kein Mond 1 7a 2 6c+ 3 7c 4 7b+ FA: Kim Carrigan, Gabriel Huber, Guntram Salomon & Martin Scheel, 1985	Sport 4
6c+	★★ Frospfeiler 1 6b 25m 2 6a+ 20m 3 5c+ 25m 4 6c+ 15m 5 6a 30m	Sport 120m, 5
6a+	Pfeilerrisse 1 6a 2 5c+ 3 5c+ 4 5b 5 6a+ 3rd pitch bolted. Belay bolted.	Trad 5
7a+	Che Guevara 1 7a+ 30m 2 6b+ 25m 3 7a 25m 4 6c+/7a 25m 6c+ oblig. FA: Furrer & Eggenberg, 1989	Mixed trad 110m, 4, 10
6a+	Linke Südwand 1 6a+ 2 5c 3 6a+ 4 4b Nuts, Friends 1-4 and slings.	Trad 4
6a+	Heller Morgen 1 5a 2 5c+ 3 6a+ Nuts and Friends 2-4	Trad 3
5a	★ Morgamutsch 1 4b 2 4c 3 5a 4 4c 5 3b Nuts, middle Friends, Slings	Trad 200m, 5
6a+	Scharfer Riss 1 5c 2 6a+ 3 3a 4 3a Nuts and Friends 0.5 -3.5.	Trad 4
7b	Höhenkoller 1 7a+ 2 6b+ 3 7b 4 7a Nuts and Friends 1.5	Sport 4
Piccolo
7c	Grössenwahn 1 7b 2 7c 7b,7c when climbed as two pitches, 8a(10-) when climbed as one long 50m pitch (as suggested by FA)	Sport 50m, 2
6a+	Piccolo	Sport 3
5c+	Alte Südwand	Trad
7b	Tanz auf dem Regenbogen	Sport 6
6c	Bridge of Light	Sport 5
6b	Irrgarten	Trad 5
6b	Guet Nacht	Trad 5
7a	Guata Tag	Trad 5
6c+	Dezemberunfug	Trad 150m, 6
6b	Aspirantenweg	Sport 150m, 6
Südturm
7a+	Allerleirauh	Mixed trad 200m, 10, 20
7b	Traumfabrik	Sport 200m, 10
6a+	★★ Da muesch en Dickä schickä 1 6a+ 25m 2 5c+ 35m 3 5c+ 15m 4 5c+ 45m 5 4c 45m 6 5b 45m 7 3a 10m	Sport 220m, 7
6a+	★★ Maguggi	Sport 150m, 6
6c+	Plattenwand	Sport 100m, 4
6a+	Katerbummel	Trad 150m, 8
7a	Alpsteinhammer	Sport 100m, 5
Sandührliweg
5c	Friendfresser	Trad 150m, 5
7a	Open Air	Mixed trad 50m, 2, 7
7a+	New Time	Sport 50m, 2
6a	★★ Knecht Ruprecht 1 6a 40m 2 5b 25m 3 5b+ 35m 4 5c 50m 5 5c 40m no additional gear needed.	Sport 190m, 5, 53
6a	★★ Intermezzo	Sport 180m, 5, 10
5c+	Gonzo	Trad 180m, 7
5c	Bummelzug	Trad 120m, 5
7a+	★★★ Route 66 1 5c 2 6b+ 3 6a+ 4 5c+ 5 6b 6 6b 7 7a+ 8 5b Set: Werner Küng & Marco Wasina, 2018	Sport 270m, 8, 14
7b	Meridian	Sport 200m, 10
6a	★★ Thurgauerweg 1 6a 2 5c 3 4c 4 5c 5 5b FA: Martin Wiesmann, Walter Eitzinger & Ruedi Hutter, 1981 Set: Andi Allenspach, Silvia und Thomas Ammann & Lukas Bollhalder, 2004	Sport 150m, 5, 9
6a+	★★★ Langstrasse 1 6a 2 5c+ 3 5c+ 4 6a+ Starts at the second belay of 'Thurgauerweg'. FA: Markus Hutter, Richard Ott & Martin Wiesmann, 1984 Set: Andi Allenspach, Silvia und Thomas Ammann & Lukas Bollhalder, 2004	Sport 120m, 4, 11
6c	Schrittmacher mit Herz	Sport 100m, 5
6c+	★★ Xl 1 6b+ 35m 2 6b+ 35m 3 6c+ 35m 4 6c 50m 5 6a+ 35m 6 6b 45m http://mdettling.blogspot.com FA: M. Dettling & K. Dettling, 28 Sep 2014	Sport 240m, 6, 49
6c	Ungläubiger Michel	Sport 180m, 7
6b+	Ungläubiger Michel, Einstiegsvariante	Sport 30m
6b	★★★ Sandührliweg 1 6a 2 5c+ 3 5c+ 4 5c+ 5 6a+ 6 6a 7 6b Very nice route in the area. If you want to climb one good route in the area, this might be a very good choice. Plan the approach and check the pictures to make sure you find the base easily. Important info: On the first pitch (with two anchors at the ground), if you take the leftish route (right seems like a new route), be aware that there will be a long run out (at 3rd bolt). Stick to the right crack which is much easier than the left side. When belaying I was ready to run down the slope to avoid any ground fall. the 6th pitch is rated 5c but feels more like a 6a/6a+ (Fabian has rated this 6a+ - Hubert rates 6a). FA: Christel Howald Feederle, Hans Howald-Feederle & Andreas Walder, 1981 Set: 2004	Sport 200m, 7
7a	Die Galoschen des Glücks	Sport 100m, 4
7a	★★ Blues in my shoes 1 6b+ 2 7a 3 6b 4 6c 5 6c+ 6 6a http://mdettling.blogspot.com	Sport 240m, 6, 53
6b+	★★ Sandi in the Moon	Sport 180m, 6
6c	★★ Hoi Du 1 6c 30m 2 4a 20m 3 6a 30m 4 6a+ 25m 5 5c+ 40m 6 6a 35m	Mixed trad 180m, 6, 9
6c+	★★ Garten Eden 1 6b 30m 2 6a+ 25m 3 6c+ 25m 4 6b+ 40m 5 6c 35m 6 6b+ 20m Well bolted multi pitch. Climbing over a bolt more than three meters is really rare. Set: M.Dettling & W.Küng, 2014	Sport 180m, 6
6b	Linke Verschneidung	Trad 120m, 3
6b A1	Hakenfresser	Trad 300m, 16
Wandfussplatten
7a	Zart und Smart	Sport
7a	Theorie vom Stand	Sport 20m
7b	Teletabbies	Sport
7a	Smörebröd	Sport 20m
7b	Rigoletto	Sport
7b	Delightful Horror	Sport
7b	Abstand mit Anstand	Sport
7a+	Luxusproblem	Sport
6c+	Streck dich frei	Sport 20m
7a	Macarena	Sport
7b+	Superbe	Sport 20m
7b+	Ausgangssperre	Sport
7a+	De g'Schnäller isch de g'Schwinder	Sport 20m
7a+	Cigaro	Sport
7a+	Osterei	Sport 20m
7b	Dräcksbäggli	Sport 20m

6b+

★★ Tantä Neva

FFA: 2012

Sport 35m

5c

Eremitensohn

Sport 70m, 2

6c

★★★ Oh Helena

FFA: 2012

Sport 25m

5b

★ Oh Myrta

Mixed trad 70m, 2, 3

5c+

Kafipausä

FFA: 2012

Sport 23m

7a+

Kafitantä

FFA: 2012

Sport 25m

6c+

★★★ Zikzak

FFA: 2012

Sport 25m

6c

Schnäderlisä

FFA: 2012

Sport 25m

7a

Fakir Riss

FFA: 2012

Sport 20m

6c

Dächli

Mixed trad 15m, 3

6a+

Schniknack

FFA: 2011

Sport 18m

7a

Chrampfoderä

FFA: 2011

Sport 15m

6c

Mozafati

FFA: 2012

Sport 15m

6a

Ost Riss

1 6a 25m

2 6a 20m

FFA: 2011

Trad 45m, 2

4a

Zwerg Zwack

FFA: 2013

Sport 8m

4a

Prinz Mägerli

FFA: 2013

Sport 8m

6a+

★★ Remy Martin

1 5c 25m

2 6a+ 30m

Set: R. Salvini & M. Baumeister, 2000

Sport 55m, 2

6c

★★★ Dicksack

1 5b+ 25m

2 6c 20m

3 6b+ 10m

Set: R. Bürge, 2013

Sport 55m, 3

6c

Giiznäpper

Set: R. Bürge, 2013

Sport 10m

6b+

Hammerfinger

1 5c 25m

2 6b+ 25m

Set: R. Bürge, May 2014

Sport 50m, 2

6a+

Schlegeltoopä

1 5c 20m

2 6a+ 20m

Set: Jun 2014

Sport 40m, 2

7a

★★★ Jommerlisä

70m rope

FFA: R. Bürge, 2011

Sport 35m, 16

6a

Jommeri

FFA: R. Bürge, 2011

Sport 20m

5a

★ Türmli

Set: R. Bürge, 2011

Sport 15m

4c

Bergschtiiger

FFA: R. Bürge, 2011

Sport 15m

6c+/7a

Luuspeiz

1 6c+ 15m

2 6c+/7a 10m

3 5a 15m

Set: R. Bürge, 2013

Sport 40m, 3

6c

Giftnudlä

FFA: R. Bürge, 2013

Sport 15m

5c

Schnudi

Set: R. Bürge, 2013

Sport 15m

7a+

Sonderling

Set: F. Schäfer & F. Umlauft, 1991

Sport 40m, 3

7a

Kalte Wand

Set: 2013

Sport 20m

6c+/7a

Susu

1 5b+ 15m

2 6c+/7a 15m

3 5a 10m

Set: R. Bürge, 2013

Sport 40m, 3

6c+

Kante direkt

1 6a 25m

2 6c+ 10m

Set: R. Salvini & M. Baumeler, 2000

Sport 35m, 2, 12

5c+

★★★ Schafbergkante

Very popular multi pitch route at the 'Schafbergwand'. The route follows the arete from west to east. A must for visitors of this crag.

A detailed description in the blog by Marcel Dettling

Mixed trad 400m, 12, 10

6b

★★★ Westriss

1 6a+

2 6b

3 5c+

4 4c

Belay bolted. 2 racks friends, nuts and hex nuts. 2x50m. Some bolt are present in the critical passage but need definitively extra protection. Mainly Friends from 0.5 until 5 max (BD). Double rack needed for #1,2,3,4.

FA: Christel Howald-Feederle & Hans Howald-Feederle, 1981

Trad 3

7a

Luftschloss

1 7a

2 7a

3 6a+

Nuts and Friends 0.5-3.

Sport 3

7c

★★★ Kein Wasser, kein Mond

1 7a

2 6c+

3 7c

4 7b+

FA: Kim Carrigan, Gabriel Huber, Guntram Salomon & Martin Scheel, 1985

Sport 4

6c+

★★ Frospfeiler

1 6b 25m

2 6a+ 20m

3 5c+ 25m

4 6c+ 15m

5 6a 30m

Sport 120m, 5

6a+

Pfeilerrisse

1 6a

2 5c+

3 5c+

4 5b

5 6a+

3rd pitch bolted. Belay bolted.

Trad 5

7a+

Che Guevara

1 7a+ 30m

2 6b+ 25m

3 7a 25m

4 6c+/7a 25m

6c+ oblig.

FA: Furrer & Eggenberg, 1989

Mixed trad 110m, 4, 10

6a+

Linke Südwand

1 6a+

2 5c

3 6a+

4 4b

Nuts, Friends 1-4 and slings.

Trad 4

6a+

Heller Morgen

1 5a

2 5c+

3 6a+

Nuts and Friends 2-4

Trad 3

5a

★ Morgamutsch

1 4b

2 4c

3 5a

4 4c

5 3b

Nuts, middle Friends, Slings

Trad 200m, 5

6a+

Scharfer Riss

1 5c

2 6a+

3 3a

4 3a

Nuts and Friends 0.5 -3.5.

Trad 4

7b

Höhenkoller

1 7a+

2 6b+

3 7b

4 7a

Nuts and Friends 1.5

Sport 4

7c

Grössenwahn

1 7b

2 7c

7b,7c when climbed as two pitches, 8a(10-) when climbed as one long 50m pitch (as suggested by FA)

Sport 50m, 2

6a+

Piccolo

Sport 3

5c+

Alte Südwand

Trad

7b

Tanz auf dem Regenbogen

Sport 6

6c

Bridge of Light

Sport 5

6b

Irrgarten

Trad 5

6b

Guet Nacht

Trad 5

7a

Guata Tag

Trad 5

6c+

Dezemberunfug

Trad 150m, 6

6b

Aspirantenweg

Sport 150m, 6

7a+

Allerleirauh

Mixed trad 200m, 10, 20

7b

Traumfabrik

Sport 200m, 10

6a+

★★ Da muesch en Dickä schickä

1 6a+ 25m

2 5c+ 35m

3 5c+ 15m

4 5c+ 45m

5 4c 45m

6 5b 45m

7 3a 10m

Sport 220m, 7

6a+

★★ Maguggi

Sport 150m, 6

6c+

Plattenwand

Sport 100m, 4

6a+

Katerbummel

Trad 150m, 8

7a

Alpsteinhammer

Sport 100m, 5

5c

Friendfresser

Trad 150m, 5

7a

Open Air

Mixed trad 50m, 2, 7

7a+

New Time

Sport 50m, 2

6a

★★ Knecht Ruprecht

1 6a 40m

2 5b 25m

3 5b+ 35m

4 5c 50m

5 5c 40m

no additional gear needed.

Sport 190m, 5, 53

6a

★★ Intermezzo

Sport 180m, 5, 10

5c+

Gonzo

Trad 180m, 7

5c

Bummelzug

Trad 120m, 5

7a+

★★★ Route 66

1 5c

2 6b+

3 6a+

4 5c+

5 6b

6 6b

7 7a+

8 5b

Set: Werner Küng & Marco Wasina, 2018

Sport 270m, 8, 14

7b

Meridian

Sport 200m, 10

6a

★★ Thurgauerweg

1 6a

2 5c

3 4c

4 5c

5 5b

FA: Martin Wiesmann, Walter Eitzinger & Ruedi Hutter, 1981

Set: Andi Allenspach, Silvia und Thomas Ammann & Lukas Bollhalder, 2004

Sport 150m, 5, 9

6a+

★★★ Langstrasse

1 6a

2 5c+

3 5c+

4 6a+

Starts at the second belay of 'Thurgauerweg'.

FA: Markus Hutter, Richard Ott & Martin Wiesmann, 1984

Set: Andi Allenspach, Silvia und Thomas Ammann & Lukas Bollhalder, 2004

Sport 120m, 4, 11

6c

Schrittmacher mit Herz

Sport 100m, 5

6c+

★★ Xl

1 6b+ 35m

2 6b+ 35m

3 6c+ 35m

4 6c 50m

5 6a+ 35m

6 6b 45m

http://mdettling.blogspot.com

FA: M. Dettling & K. Dettling, 28 Sep 2014

Sport 240m, 6, 49

6c

Ungläubiger Michel

Sport 180m, 7

6b+

Ungläubiger Michel, Einstiegsvariante

Sport 30m

6b

★★★ Sandührliweg

1 6a

2 5c+

3 5c+

4 5c+

5 6a+

6 6a

7 6b

Very nice route in the area. If you want to climb one good route in the area, this might be a very good choice.

Plan the approach and check the pictures to make sure you find the base easily.

Important info:

On the first pitch (with two anchors at the ground), if you take the leftish route (right seems like a new route), be aware that there will be a long run out (at 3rd bolt). Stick to the right crack which is much easier than the left side. When belaying I was ready to run down the slope to avoid any ground fall.
the 6th pitch is rated 5c but feels more like a 6a/6a+ (Fabian has rated this 6a+ - Hubert rates 6a).

FA: Christel Howald Feederle, Hans Howald-Feederle & Andreas Walder, 1981

Set: 2004

Sport 200m, 7

7a

Die Galoschen des Glücks

Sport 100m, 4

7a

★★ Blues in my shoes

1 6b+

2 7a

3 6b

4 6c