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Speroni di Ponte Brolla All Sport climbing 14 routes in crag

Grade context: FR
Photos: 5
Ascents: 90

3b 3c+4b 4c+5b 5c+

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Approach

20-30 min

From the Ponte Brolla train station, follow Ponte Brolla east and then north along the river 600m to a car park opposite a foot bridge over the river. Just to the right of the car park, follow a trail up and right. Stay right at the transmission tower and continue right and up, crossing a small creek. Zombi is the first bolted route to the right of the creek.

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Routes

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1 5a

2 4c

3 4c

4 4c

5 4c

6 4c

7 4c

Left bolted route on left-slab of Speroni.

Descent: take two 50m ropes. Abseil following the natural line of descent (tending south) to an abseil anchor around 50m below. Abseil again to a path and then scramble down among the trees to a steel cable which traverses the face near the top of the second pitch of Quarzo. Use the cable to reach the final abseil anchor.

1 5a

2 5a

3 5a

4 5b

5 5b

6 5b

7 5a+

8 5a

9 6a

10 5b

11 4b

On the left-side slab, start up the bolt route on the right. Climb 6 pitches of lovely slab 5a-5b. Then, head up steeper headwall for 4 more pitches, followed by an easy finish pitch.

5a. Slab up angling rightwards.
5a. Slab up, right, then up.
5a. Slab up then right.
5b. More slab, up and rightwards.
5b. Still more slab, up and a bit rightwards.
5b. Finally the last slab, to a lovely ledge.
5a+. Up steeper rock on huge holds.
5a. Walk up and right over easy ground, then up good climbing on slanted face.
6a. (5b 2 p.a.). Up steep featured rock with quartz crystals.
5b. Up over small roof, then up good rock.
4b. Walk upwards to short easy finishing wall and step right to anchors.

Descent: walk off -- up and back on obvious trail, then down steep gully. Does not go to bottom of climb, but back to the road. Or rappel -- all anchors suitable, but careful of stuck rope on top pitches.

1 4b

2 3c

3 4b

4 3b

5 4b

6 4b

7 4b - 5a

Good for families.

Alternate final pitch: 5a.

1 4c

2 5a

3 5a

4 5a

1 4c

2 5b

3 5c+

4 5c

Areas

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Placca di Maoph crag

All Sport climbing

77m

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Kletterführer Tessin / Ticino

Author(s): G. Cugini

Date: 2021

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Tessin Rock Klettergärten

Author(s): E. Bernasconi

Date: 2021

Buy

ⓘ

Boulderführer Swiss Bloc 1

Author(s): Ulrich & Harald Röker

Date: 2023

ISBN: 9783938680513

All important bouldering areas of northern Switzerland, including the high passes, are presented in detail / 17 bouldering hot spots with over 4150 boulder problems between Schaffhausen and the main ridge of the Alps. It covers Kesslerloch, Magic Wood, Engelberg, Blattiswald, Morschach, Schöllenen, Göschenen, Gotthardpass, Nufenenpass, Minstigertal, Furkapass, Sustenpass, Steingletscher, Grimselpass, Fuxenstein, Kandersteg, Goppenstein.

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