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Diamond Cave

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Description

Medium to good quality rock. Very, very popular with the climbing schools. Most of the main wall is lit up and climbable at night.

Approach

Walk to the end of the Railay walking street. Walk around the wall and then turn left. After the road bends left, keep going straight, following directions to the Phutawan resort. You will pass the entrance to the actual Diamond cave on the left. Continue further uphill and find the crag on your left behind the Highland climbing school.

Alternatively, take the steep jungle trail connecting from Ton Sai. At Basecamp, take the road uphill, which passes 'Mama's Chicken'. Continue uphill until you pass the last bungalows. Follow the trail through the forest for about 20 min until you reach a small meadow. Pass through the high grass and continue on the small road. After a bend to the right you will see the Phutawan resort on your right. The crag is now right in front of you.

Routes

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Grade Route

Three routes around the left corner of the main face. Old expansion bolts and slings. In the shade late afternoon.

Leftmost line, a few meters down the path. 7 old expansion bolts, but also many slings. Do not clip the old bolts!

Set: Paul Brunner, 1997

Lefthand variation of the top section of 'Attic Antics'. All slings.

In some guidebooks, this route is confused with the original 'Attic Antics' route, and the subsequent routes are falsely labeled accordingly.

Set: 2004

Loose rock. All slings.

Set: Paul Brunner, 1997

Old expansion bolts. Do not climb!

Set: Paul Brunner, 1997

The main face at 'Diamond Cave' sector. Extremely busy during climbing school hours. Not recommended to climb here between 9 am and 4 pm.

2 slings, 2 bolts.

Short climb just to the left of Kai Kad. Not in any of the climbing guidebooks we’ve seen but one of the local climbing instructors told us that it’s a 4.

Leftmost route on the main face. All titanium bolts.

Set: Sarut & Wang, 2000

Confused with 'Run Away' in some guidebooks. 1 titanium bolt, 7 slings. Share start with IKRC-2008.

Start climbing the No name 1, but then take the right bolt line to the higher anchor.

Set: Tu & Toto, 2008

Called 'Mr No Name' in some guidebooks. All slings.

Set: Yup, 2000

Shares the start with 'Mot Daeng', then straight up the left bolt line. 3 titanium bolts, 3 slings.

Set: Dean Saydom, 2000

Warning Fixed Gear: !

Shares the start with 'Chok Dee', then veers right. 3 titanium bolts, 3 slings.

Set: Yup, 2000

1 6a+ 20m
2 6a 15m
3 7a 35m

Old multi-pitch climb. Rusty expansion bolts and old slings on the upper two pitch. Only climb P1, which is therefore listed as a separate route.

3 titanium bolts, 4 threads.

Set: Nick Blaise & Martin Carstens, 1995

Set: Nick Blaise & Martin Carstens, 1995

3 titanium bolts, 4 slings.

Set: Ralph Dietrich, Heide Dietrich & Vitsanu Rashsang, 1999

Rightmost line on the main face. Confused with 'Les Petites Oreilles' in some guidebooks. Not rebolted with titanium. Stainless steel glue-ins.

Around the corner on the right. Often free, even during climbing school hours.

All slings.

Set: Michael Hoffmann, 1995

Second pitch of 'Nullaktion'. Old slings and expansion bolts. Do not climb!

Set: Michael Hoffmann, 2002

Called 'Diamonds are Forever' on some guidebooks, which is only the name of the second pitch. 5 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

Set: Stefan Schmidt, 1995

Second pitch of 'Les Petites Oreilles'. 7 titanium bolts, 3 slings.

Set: Marel Eckhardt, 1995

Warning Flora and Fauna: Insect(wasp?) nest near 3rd sling

1 6b 23m
2 6c 15m
3 6c 20m
  1. 8 slings. share anchor with Attacktit.

  2. 3 titanium bolts, 3 slings.

  3. 6 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Set: Aduuh, Stips & Stefan Schmidt, 1995

Shares anchors with P1 of 'Seven Seven Seven'. 3 titanium bolts, 6 slings. 1st pitch of Almost Heaven.

Set: Michael Hoffmann, 2002

Second pitch of 'Attacktit'. Can also be accessed from P1 of 'Seven Seven Seven'. 8 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

Set: Tom Cecil & John Rosholt, 1995

Old routes at the actual Diamond Cave. Bolting status unclear, probably old expansion bolts. Anyway most certainly not anymore climbable due to the existence of the Diamond Cave National Park.

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Sun 28 May
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