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Thaiwand Wall All Sport climbing 25 routes in cliff

25
FR
4a4b+5a5b+6a6b6c7a7b7c

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Approach

Walk all the way to the end of Railay beach. In the corner behind the Rayavadee resort, find a trail into the forest, which leads you to 'Wee's Present Wall' after about 50m. Turn right and follow the wall to the end. Follow the trail straight ahead and climb down a small boulder. Keep following the steep trail for about 2 minutes until you see a fallen tree on the left. From here, multiple paths end up at the crag. The easiest way is passing below the tree, then continuing right for about 1 minute until you end up on the leftmost routes of 'Thaiwand Wall'.

After the tree, there is another trail turning left and uphill, which leads to the 'Candlestick Wall'.

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Contents

Routes

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Grade Route

Left Side Back to contents

2
6a+ ★ Primal Scream Sport 15m, 7

Polished rock. 4 titanium bolts, 3 slings.

Set: Greg Collum & Jeff, 1992

3
6b+ ★ Solution 41 Sport 18m, 5

4 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Set: Gordon Brysland & Terry Schmidt, 1994

4
7c ★★ Spicy Speck Dreams Sport 22m, 6

Not rebolted with titanium. All stainless steel glue-in bolts.

Set: Valentin Mak, 1994

5
7b+ ★★★ Orange Juice Sport 22m, 6

Straight up into the orange pocketed wall. All titanium bolts.

Set: Greg Collum & Jay Hanvik, 1992

6
6a+ No Name 1 Sport

Unnamed route between 'Orange Juice' and 'Live & Let Thai'.

7
7a ★ Live and Let Thai Sport 25m, 2, 9
1 5a 15m
2 7a 10m

Climb as one pitch. Not rebolted with titanium. 6 stainless steel glue-in bolts, 3 slings.

Set: Will Hair, 1994

8
7b ★★★ Equatorial Sport 50m, 2, 19
1 6c 35m
2 7b 15m

Great first pitch up the arete.

  1. 11 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

  2. 6 titanium bolts.

Set: Greg Collum & Trevor Massiah, 1994

9
7a No Name 2 Sport 12m

Unnamed route right of 'Equatorial'. Hard crux into the small roof. Grade not confirmed. Titanium bolts.

10
6a No Name 3 Sport 12m

Unnamed route left of 'Organ Grinder'. Grade not confirmed. Titanium bolts.

11
7b Inaka Sport 120m, 5
1 5a 15m
2 7a 16m
3 7b 15m
4 7a 50m
5 6b+ 28m

This route is a mess. Don't do it. There is a lot of loose rock and sharpies that can cut your rope. Also no rebolting since 1996.Take 15 quickdraws and extra threads if you're really keen... Shares the first pitch with 'Organ Grinder', then left into the cave.

Set: Kaori Tauji & Koji Okumura, 1996

12
6c ★ Organ Grinder Sport 25m, 2, 11
1 5a 15m
2 6c 10m

Usually climbed as one pitch. All titanium bolts.

Set: Sam Lightner, Greg Collum & Trevor Massiah, 1993

13
7a ★★ Continental Drifters Sport 99m, 4, 40
1 5a 25m
2 6b+ 20m
3 6c+ 37m
4 7a 17m

Good but not as good as 'Lord of the Thais' and 'The King and I'. Take 14 quickdraws.

  1. 6 old bolts. First two pitches are not rebolted. Better access P3 from 'Monkey Love'.

  2. 7 old bolts. See P1.

  3. Straight up over the bulge. 8 titanium bolts.

  4. Left towards the cave. 12 titanium bolts.

  5. Sharp rock to the top. 7 titanium bolts.

From the anchor of P3, it is a 60m rap to the ground with two 60m ropes.

Set: Sam Lightner, Volker Schoeffl & Gerd Schoeffl, 1994

14
6b ★★ Monkey Love Sport 25m, 7

Exposed line through the tufa system. All slings.

Set: Greg Collum & Larissa Collum, 1992

15
7b ★★★ Out of Sticks Sport 27m, 9

Original grade was 7a+. Upgraded to 7b after a hold broke off. Shares the start with 'Caveman', then left straight over the bulge. 8 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Set: Sam Lightner, Gerd Schoeffl & Volker Schoeffl, 1994

16
7a+ ★ Caveman Sport 32m, 2, 12
1 6a+ 15m
2 7a+ 17m

Shares the start with 'Out of Sticks', then further right up the crack. Can be climbed as one pitch. 11 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Set: Greg Collum & Larissa Collum, 1992

17
4 Twenty Kilos of Steel Sport 15m, 5

Access route to the big cave connecting 'Thaiwand Wall' and 'Escher World'. 1 titanium bolt, 4 slings.

Set: Dean Saydom, 1992

18
7a ★★ Circus Oz Sport 120m, 4, 41
1 6a+ 25m
2 6b+ 25m
3 7a 45m
4 6b 28m

Popular and will get you as far of the deck as you will get in this area. Take 14 quickdraws and two 60m ropes. Be aware that the upper pitches are not rebolted with titanium!

  1. Same first pitch as 'Lord of the Thais', straight up on the right side of the big cave. 7 titanium bolts, 3 slings.

  2. Stay left of the bolts, up into the cave. Find the anchor just right above the anchor of 'Continental Drifters' P2. 4 titanium bolts, 5 slings.

  3. Crux pitch. Quite fun if you have the means. Move left, then up over the bulge. 7 stainless steel glue-in bolts, 4 slings.

  4. Sharp rock to the anchors of 'Lord of the Thais'. Take care. A fall on the last bit of the last pitch could be very dangerous, because there is some sharp rock and you're falling into a dihedral. 7 stainless steel glue-in bolts, 4 slings.

Descend via the anchors of 'Lord of the Thais'. Three raps to the ground with two 60m ropes. Backclip to stay on the wall!

Set: M. Matheson, G, R. Smith & G. Tempest

19
7b ★★★ Lord of the Thais Sport 120m, 5, 46
1 6a+ 25m
2 7a 28m
3 7a+ 28m
4 7b 27m
5 6b 12m

One of the best routes in Thailand, maybe the world? Take 15 quickdraws and two 60m ropes.

  1. Same first pitch as 'Circus Oz', straight up on the right side of the big cave. 7 titanium bolts, 3 slings.

  2. Straight up over two bulges, then slightly left to the anchor on a big ledge. 8 titanium bolts, 4 slings.

  3. Slightly left and straight up. 11 titanium bolts.

  4. Towards the right through steep rock. 10 titanium bolts.

  5. Short pitch to the left on sharp rock, just to reach the top. 2 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Descend by rapping down three times with two 60m ropes. Backclip to stay on the wall!

FA: Sam Lightner, Greg Collum & Larissa Collum, 1992

20
6b ★★ Mala Mujer Sport 30m, 12

Good vertical climb on tufas and big holds. 9 titanium bolts, 3 slings.

Set: Pep Masip, 1995

Right Side Back to contents

Access these routes by climbing up about 8m on titanium bolts right of the start of 'Mala Mujer' at 6a level.

22
6b+ ★★ Getting to Know You / Etcetera, Etcetera, Etcetera Sport 25m, 9

All stainless steel glue-in bolts.

Set: Sam Lightner & Jacob Valdez, 1993

23
6b ★★ The Sluggard Prince Sport 28m, 13

1 expansion bolt, 12 slings.

Set: Gordon Brysland & Olle Welin, 1994

24
7b+ ★★ The King and I Sport 120m, 4, 37
1 7a 30m
2 6a 36m
3 7b+ 38m
4 6b 12m

A fun climb, especially the second pitch. Take 14 quickdraws and two 60m ropes.

  1. Also a great single-pitch climb. Steep and pumpy. Alternatively, it is possible to climb 'The Sluggard Prince' and traverse right to the anchor. 12 titanium bolts.

  2. Pass the midway anchor and climb up to the next anchor inside a small cave. 11 titanium bolts.

  3. Left out of the belay cave. Again, pass an old anchor and climb straight up, then left to the anchor of 'Lord of the Thais' P4. 11 titanium bolts.

  4. Same as P5 of 'Lord of the Thais', sharp rock to the top. 2 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Descend via the anchors of 'Lord of the Thais'. Three raps to the ground with two 60m ropes. Backclip to stay on the wall!

Set: Sam Lightner, Jacob Valdez & Somporn Suebhait, 1992

25
6b+ ★ Sanuked Sport 40m, 14

Starts at the top of 'The Sluggard Prince' and shares the anchor with P2 of 'The King and I'. Straight up for 3 clips, then crosses over P2 of 'The King and I'. Continues up right to under a small roof, then left and up to the belay cave. From the anchor it is a 60m rap to the ground. Very sustained climbing. 6 bolts, 8 slings.

Set: Edward Darling & Ed, 2001

26
6a+ ★★ Fit to be Thaid Sport 25m, 12

A little sharp but otherwise fun climbing

Set: Sam Lightner & Greg Collum, 1992

27
7a+ ★ Taming the East Sport 20m, 7

All stainless steel glue-in bolts.

Set: Sam Lightner, Gerd Schoeffl & Volker Schoeffl, 1984

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Nearby Icons

6a+ ★★ Fit to be Thaid
6b ★★ Monkey Love
6b+ ★★ Getting to Know You
7a ★★ Circus Oz
7b ★★★ Equatorial
7b+ ★★ The King and I

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Ouita Broadfoot on ★★★ Equatorial 7b - Ah beautiful Thailand!

Jan Sinicak at Thaiwand Wall - Thailand Wall - Candlestick Area

★★★ Lord of the Thais 7b - Screenshot_20191025-211333_Video Player-01.jpeg

Peter from Japan (via Iowa) at Thaiwand Wall

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