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Approach

Walk all the way to the end of Railay beach. In the corner behind the Rayavadee resort, find a trail into the forest, which leads you to 'Wee's Present Wall' after about 50m. Turn right and follow the wall to the end. Follow the trail straight ahead and climb down a small boulder. Keep following the steep trail for about 2 minutes until you see a fallen tree on the left. From here, multiple paths end up at the crag. The easiest way is passing below the tree, then continuing right for about 1 minute until you end up on the leftmost routes of 'Thaiwand Wall'.

After the tree, there is another trail turning left and uphill, which leads to the 'Candlestick Wall'.

Routes

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Grade Route

Polished rock. 4 titanium bolts, 3 slings.

Set: Greg Collum & Jeff, 1992

4 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Set: Gordon Brysland & Terry Schmidt, 1994

Not rebolted with titanium. All stainless steel glue-in bolts.

Set: Valentin Mak, 1994

Straight up into the orange pocketed wall. All titanium bolts.

Set: Greg Collum & Jay Hanvik, 1992

Unnamed route between 'Orange Juice' and 'Live & Let Thai'.

1 5a 15m
2 7a 10m

Climb as one pitch. Not rebolted with titanium. 6 stainless steel glue-in bolts, 3 slings.

Set: Will Hair, 1994

1 6c 35m
2 7b 15m

Great first pitch up the arete.

  1. 11 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

  2. 6 titanium bolts.

Set: Greg Collum & Trevor Massiah, 1994

Unnamed route right of 'Equatorial'. Hard crux into the small roof. Grade not confirmed. Titanium bolts.

Unnamed route left of 'Organ Grinder'. Grade not confirmed. Titanium bolts.

1 5a 15m
2 7a 16m
3 7b 15m
4 7a 50m
5 6b+ 28m

This route is a mess. Don't do it. There is a lot of loose rock and sharpies that can cut your rope. Also no rebolting since 1996.Take 15 quickdraws and extra threads if you're really keen... Shares the first pitch with 'Organ Grinder', then left into the cave.

Set: Kaori Tauji & Koji Okumura, 1996

1 5a 15m
2 6c 10m

Usually climbed as one pitch. All titanium bolts.

Set: Sam Lightner, Greg Collum & Trevor Massiah, 1993

1 5a 25m
2 6b+ 20m
3 6c+ 37m
4 7a 17m

Good but not as good as 'Lord of the Thais' and 'The King and I'. Take 14 quickdraws.

  1. 6 old bolts. First two pitches are not rebolted. Better access P3 from 'Monkey Love'.

  2. 7 old bolts. See P1.

  3. Straight up over the bulge. 8 titanium bolts.

  4. Left towards the cave. 12 titanium bolts.

  5. Sharp rock to the top. 7 titanium bolts.

From the anchor of P3, it is a 60m rap to the ground with two 60m ropes.

Set: Sam Lightner, Volker Schoeffl & Gerd Schoeffl, 1994

Exposed line through the tufa system. All slings.

Set: Greg Collum & Larissa Collum, 1992

Original grade was 7a+. Upgraded to 7b after a hold broke off. Shares the start with 'Caveman', then left straight over the bulge. 8 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Set: Sam Lightner, Gerd Schoeffl & Volker Schoeffl, 1994

1 6a+ 15m
2 7a+ 17m

Shares the start with 'Out of Sticks', then further right up the crack. Can be climbed as one pitch. 11 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Set: Greg Collum & Larissa Collum, 1992

Access route to the big cave connecting 'Thaiwand Wall' and 'Escher World'. 1 titanium bolt, 4 slings.

Set: Dean Saydom, 1992

1 6a+ 25m
2 6b+ 25m
3 7a 45m
4 6b 28m

Popular and will get you as far of the deck as you will get in this area. Take 14 quickdraws and two 60m ropes. Be aware that the upper pitches are not rebolted with titanium!

  1. Same first pitch as 'Lord of the Thais', straight up on the right side of the big cave. 7 titanium bolts, 3 slings.

  2. Stay left of the bolts, up into the cave. Find the anchor just right above the anchor of 'Continental Drifters' P2. 4 titanium bolts, 5 slings.

  3. Crux pitch. Quite fun if you have the means. Move left, then up over the bulge. 7 stainless steel glue-in bolts, 4 slings.

  4. Sharp rock to the anchors of 'Lord of the Thais'. Take care. A fall on the last bit of the last pitch could be very dangerous, because there is some sharp rock and you're falling into a dihedral. 7 stainless steel glue-in bolts, 4 slings.

Descend via the anchors of 'Lord of the Thais'. Three raps to the ground with two 60m ropes. Backclip to stay on the wall!

Set: M. Matheson, G, R. Smith & G. Tempest

1 6a+ 25m
2 7a 28m
3 7a+ 28m
4 7b 27m
5 6b 12m

One of the best routes in Thailand, maybe the world? Take 15 quickdraws and two 60m ropes.

  1. Same first pitch as 'Circus Oz', straight up on the right side of the big cave. 7 titanium bolts, 3 slings.

  2. Straight up over two bulges, then slightly left to the anchor on a big ledge. 8 titanium bolts, 4 slings.

  3. Slightly left and straight up. 11 titanium bolts.

  4. Towards the right through steep rock. 10 titanium bolts.

  5. Short pitch to the left on sharp rock, just to reach the top. 2 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Descend by rapping down three times with two 60m ropes. Backclip to stay on the wall!

FA: Sam Lightner, Greg Collum & Larissa Collum, 1992

Good vertical climb on tufas and big holds. 9 titanium bolts, 3 slings.

Set: Pep Masip, 1995

Access these routes by climbing up about 8m on titanium bolts right of the start of 'Mala Mujer' at 6a level.

All stainless steel glue-in bolts.

Set: Sam Lightner & Jacob Valdez, 1993

1 expansion bolt, 12 slings.

Set: Gordon Brysland & Olle Welin, 1994

1 7a 30m
2 6a 36m
3 7b+ 38m
4 6b 12m

A fun climb, especially the second pitch. Take 14 quickdraws and two 60m ropes.

  1. Also a great single-pitch climb. Steep and pumpy. Alternatively, it is possible to climb 'The Sluggard Prince' and traverse right to the anchor. 12 titanium bolts.

  2. Pass the midway anchor and climb up to the next anchor inside a small cave. 11 titanium bolts.

  3. Left out of the belay cave. Again, pass an old anchor and climb straight up, then left to the anchor of 'Lord of the Thais' P4. 11 titanium bolts.

  4. Same as P5 of 'Lord of the Thais', sharp rock to the top. 2 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Descend via the anchors of 'Lord of the Thais'. Three raps to the ground with two 60m ropes. Backclip to stay on the wall!

Set: Sam Lightner, Jacob Valdez & Somporn Suebhait, 1992

Starts at the top of 'The Sluggard Prince' and shares the anchor with P2 of 'The King and I'. Straight up for 3 clips, then crosses over P2 of 'The King and I'. Continues up right to under a small roof, then left and up to the belay cave. From the anchor it is a 60m rap to the ground. Very sustained climbing. 6 bolts, 8 slings.

Set: Edward Darling & Ed, 2001

A little sharp but otherwise fun climbing

Set: Sam Lightner & Greg Collum, 1992

All stainless steel glue-in bolts.

Set: Sam Lightner, Gerd Schoeffl & Volker Schoeffl, 1984

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