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Candlestick Wall All Sport climbing 4 routes in cliff

Grade context: FR
Ascents: 38

6b+6c+

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Description

Four multi-pitch routes on medium quality and partly loose rock. All routes share the same start from the first belay station.

Approach

Climb in 45-60 min

Located left above 'Thaiwand Wall'. Challenging approach involving some easy though exposed climbing on fixed ropes.

Walk all the way to the end of Railay beach. In the corner behind the Rayavadee resort, find a trail into the forest, which leads you to 'Wee's Present Wall' after about 50m. Turn right and follow the wall to the end. Follow the trail straight ahead and climb down a small boulder. Keep following the steep trail for about 2 minutes until you see a fallen tree on the left. Pass the tree and follow the trail to the roght. Just before you reach the left side of 'Thaiwand Wall', turn left and follow the trail uphill. Find a fixed rope and climb up about 30m at easy level to the belay anchor.

Descent notes

Rap off

Backclip when lowering to make it back to the starting belay station.

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Routes

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1 6a 35m

2 6c+ 20m

The leftmost line on red-coated featured rock. All titanium bolts.

After the shared start take the left line of bolts to the left anchor on the belay ledge. 12 bolts.
Up and left towards the pumpy crux right before the anchor. 10 bolts.

Set: Drew Spaulding & Julie Peterson, 2000

1 6a 35m

2 6b+ 25m

3 5a 10m

The classic line at 'Candlestick Wall'. All titanium bolts.

Take the righthand variation of the first pitch, which leads you to the right of the two belay anchors in a small cave. 12 bolts.
From the belay ledge,take the line straight up along crystal-lined pockets to the anchor below the topout tunnel. 11 bolts.
Chimney up the tunnel to reach the top of the Thaiwand. 1 sling.

Set: Drew Spaulding, Brian Warshow & Cameron Fairburn, 2000

1 6a 35m

2 6c 35m

Great overhanging second pitch. All titanium bolts.

Take the righthand variation of the first pitch to reach the right anchor in the cave. 12 bolts.
Move out right of the belay cave. Where the route splits follow the left bolt line. To the right is 'Thai Stick'. 9 bolts, 11 slings.

Set: Drew Spaulding & Jay Foley, 1999

1 6a 35m

2 6c 35m

Shares the start with 'The Candlestick', then takes the line further to the right through beautiful rock. All titanium bolts.

Take the righthand variation of the first pitch to reach the right anchor in the cave. 12 bolts.
Move out right of the belay cave. Where the route splits follow the right bolt line. 14 bolts.

Set: Mark Miner & Tom Cecil, 2000