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Dum's Kitchen All Sport climbing 33 routes in cliff

33
FR
6a6b6c7a7b7c8a8b8c

Seasonality

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Description

Steep beach side routes on top quality rock. The easy graded climbs are starting to get polished.

Access issues inherited from Ton Sai

No road access. From Ao Nang hire a longtail boat to take you around to Ton Sai. Boats only operate during the day.

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Contents

Routes

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Grade Route

Inside Dum's Kitchen Back to contents

2
7c+ ★★ Society of Gravitational Studies Sport 12m, 4

Leftmost line in the 'Dum's Kitchen' corner. All titanium bolts.

Set: Sam Lightner, Gerd Schoeffl & Volker Schoeffl, 1993

3
Mama Zu SportProject 15m, 5

The steep face right of 'Society of Gravitational Studies'. Stainless steel glue-in bolts.

Set: Wee Changrua, 2009

4
8a+ ★★★ Arts & Sport Sport 15m, 7

Shares the start with 'Wake & Bake', then left onto the face. All titanium bolts.

Set: Sam Lightner, Gerd Schoeffl & Volker Schoeffl, 1993

5
7a+ ★★★ Wake & Bake Sport 16m, 7

Climbs the obvious corner crack. Shares anchors with 'By Way of Deception'. All titanium bolts.

Set: Cyro Glad, 1992

6
7a ★★ By Way of Deception Sport 16m, 6

Starts right of the 'Wake & Bake' corner, shares the same anchor. All titanium bolts.

Set: Sam Lightner & Volker Schoeffl, 1993

7
6c ★★ Jumping for Jugs Sport 15m, 6

As the name suggests, jump for the jug to start. 3 titanium bolts, 3 slings.

Set: Cyro Glad, 1993

8
7b ★★ Nair Nawn / For Sure Sport 18m, 6

Shares the start with 'Jumping for Jugs', then right to the anchor of 'Fips, der Affe'. 5 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Set: Rolando Larcher, 1995

9
7a ★★ Fips, der Affe / Som Tam Sport 20m, 6

Shares the first meters into the corner with 'The Day After', then left over the bulge to a technical balancy finish. Shares the anchor with 'Nair Nawn'. 1 titanium bolt, 5 slings.

Set: Michael Hoffmann, 1992

10
7b ★★ The Day After Sport 20m, 6

Shares the start with 'Fips, der Affe', then straight up, sharing anchors with 'No Onion, No Garlic'. 4 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

Set: Christian Neumeyer & Reinhold Scherer, 1997

11
6c+ ★ No Onion, No Garlic Sport 20m, 8

Warning Fixed Gear: Old slings

Up the tufas, then left to a pumpy finish. Shares the last two clips and anchors with 'The Day After'. 4 titanium bolts, 4 slings.

Set: Francisco Ataide & Dolan, 2005

12
6b+ ★ Aunt Mary Johanna & Two Girls Sport 28m, 7

Old bolts and slings, overgrown. Cannot be climbed anymore.

Set: Nick Germang, 1993

On the Beach Back to contents

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14
6c ★ No Name Sport 15m, 5

Pumpy start through the overhang left of 'Schlingel Max'. Easier finish. 1 titanium bolt, 4 slings.

Set: Paul Turecki & Kirsten Kremer, 1999

15
6b ★★ Son thoi / Hanh thoi Sport

Share start with Schlingel Max, then turn left to anchor of No Name.

FA: Hanh Le

16
6b ★ Schlingel Max / Rod Yaak Sport 15m, 6

Interesting crux on polished rock. 5 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Set: Michael Hoffmann, 1992

17
7a ★★ Don Quijote de la Mancha Sport 15m, 5

Starts just left of 'Schlingel Moritz'. Technical start, easy middle section and a big move above the bulge. Don't cheat at the start by going too far right. All titanium bolts.

Set: Ernesto Lopez & Pili Llatas, 1995

18
6a ★ Schlingal Moritz / Pahn Taalod Sport 15m, 6

Hard start for the grade, especially when you're short. All titanium bolts.

Set: Michael Hoffmann, 1992

19
6c ★ Good Medicine Sport 23m, 7

One pockety tough crux towards the middle, then smooth sailing - top is a beautiful and much easier slab. All titanium bolts.

Set: Bjoern Alber, Nantawan Alber & Robert Baier, 2006

20
7a+ ★★ Reminiscence Sport 28m, 8

A true Tonsai beach classic. Starts on the tufas right of 'Good Medicine'. Titanium bolts.

Set: Sam Lightner & Todd Skinner, 1992

21
Maxi's Project SportProject 22m, 6

Squeezed in on the steep featureless rock between 'Reminiscence' and 'Mai Mee Fahn'.

Set: Maxi Montree & Ghop, 2015

22
7a+ ★★ Mai Mee Fahn / No Teeth Sport 15m, 5

Hard crux right at the start to get up to the tufas. Afterwards easier, but continuous. Reachy both at the start and towards the anchor. All titanium bolts.

Set: Todd Skinner, 1993

23
8b+ ★★ Avocado Power / King Fish Sport 22m, 9

All titanium bolts.

Set: Samsungding Doloh, Ghop & The RockShop, 2010

FA: Samsungding Doloh, 2011

FFA: Steve Townsemd, 2013

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24
6c+ ★★★ The Lion King Sport 12m, 4

Climbs around the prominent flake with insanely polished feet. Though the crux awaits right before the anchor. All titanium bolts.

Set: Volker Schoeffl, Melanie Schoeffl & Sam Lightner, 1996

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25
7b ★★ The Tiger Queen Sport 12m, 4

Easy start towards a crimpy crux. All titanium bolts.

Set: Ola Brahammar, 2006

26
8b Thai Taam Nean SportProject 25m, 8

Project about 8b, though only bolted with expansion bolts.

Set: Pha-Rhay Team, 2009

27
6b+ ★★ Storm in Head Sport 15m, 5

Extension of 'Thai Tham Nean'. Also only expansion bolts.

Set: Pha-Ray Team, 2009

28
8b ★★★ Jai Dum / Black Heart Sport 25m, 7

An amazing line linking a series of small flakes up the beautiful orange wall. All titanium bolts.

Set: Sam Lightner, 1997

29
8b+ ★★★ Of Popes and Power Sport 25m, 9

All titanium bolts.

Set: Alex Catlin, 1995

30
8c+ ★★★ Greed Sport 30m, 10

Currently the hardest ascent in Thailand. ‘It’s On’ from start to finish. Phenomenal climbing. All titanium bolts.

Set: Alex Catlin, 1997

31
8c Hot Springs Sport 30m, 10

Broken hold, needs repairs and rebolting. Protected by expansion bolts.

Set: Koran Pavel, 2002

32
8a+ ★★★ Asia Shadow Play Sport 20m, 7

Starts up the stairs towards 'Tyrolean Wall'. Shares the first few meters with 'The Sit Spins', then straight up. All titanium bolts.

Set: Sam Lightner, Volker Schoeffl & Gerd Schoeffl, 1994

33
6b+ ★★ The Sit Spins Sport 20m, 8

Shares the start with 'Asia Shadow Play'. Traverses right, then up along the crack. Be careful, the crux just above the ledge is badly protected. All titanium bolts.

Set: Sam Lightner, Gerd Schoeffl & Volker Schoeffl, 1995

34
7a ★★ The Sit Spins (Direct Start) / Remix Direct Sport 20m, 9

Direct start to 'The Sit Spins'. Starts on 4 slings to cut off traversing, just on the very left of 'Tyrolean Wall'. Face climb on small holds with a big move to reach the ledge.

Set: Ola Brahammar, 2013

35
8a ★★ The Sit Spins (Extension) / Remix Sport 25m, 2, 11
1 7c+ 15m
2 8a 10m

Extension of 'The Sit Spins' or 'Remix Direct'. Goes to the top of the wall. Great endurance climbing with an interesting finale. Titanium bolts.

Set: Matthew Bouyoud, 2010

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6a ★ Schlingal Moritz
6c+ ★★★ The Lion King
7a+ ★★★ Wake & Bake
7b ★★ The Tiger Queen
8a+ ★★★ Asia Shadow Play

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Richard C on ★★★ The Lion King 6c+ - Lion King

Jenny Chin on ★ No Name 6c - At the crux

Dum's Kitchen - Overview of Dum's Kitchen

Raphaela wiget on ★ No Name 6c - IMG_20200303_143134_913.jpg

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