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Description

The most popular crag in Ton Sai with many athletic roof climbs on excellent quality rock.

Access issues inherited from Ton Sai

No road access. From Ao Nang hire a longtail boat to take you around to Ton Sai. Boats only operate during the day.

Approach

On the beach facing the water it is the obvious roof on the left right next to Freedom Bar. It continues around the corner until the vegetation where Dums Kitchen starts.

Routes

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Grade Route

Routes start from the platform of the Freedom Bar or on the terrace up the bamboo ladder.

Tree climb, old access to 'Humanality'.

Set: Sam Lightner, Gerd, Gerd Schoeffl & Volker Schoeffl, 1993

1 7c+ 30m
2 8a 22m

All titanium bolts (P1: 12 bolts, P2: 7 bolts).

Set: Alex Catlin, 1994

Set: Björn Sieber, 2011

1 7c+ 30m
2 7b 26m

Splits to the left about halfway up P1. All titanium bolts (P1: 9 bolts, P2: 7 bolts).

Set: Tim Schmitt, 2011

Access by the first pitch of 'Humanality'. Then left of P2. Not rebolted with titanium, old stainless steel glue-in bolts.

Set: Greg Collum, 1994

1 5 15m
2 6b 10m
3 6a+ 20m
4 6b 22m
5 6b+ 25m
6 6b 10m
7 6a 10m

Could be 5, 6 or 7 piches, depending how you see the climb.

  1. Start up the ladder, left of 'Cowabungalow'. Climb up behind a stalactite and traverse left to the anchor on the ledge. 1 titanium bolt, 4 slings.

  2. Straight up the stalactite and right to the anchor on the cave of the next ledge. 4 titanium bolts.

  3. Traverse outwards to the right. Straight up on the face. Anchor to the left on a small ledge above the 'Bird's Nest Drop' anchor. 5 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

  4. Straight up into the tufas to a big belay ledge. 7 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

  5. Up and right under the big stalactite formation. 6 titanium bolts, 5 slings.

  6. Up the wall to the right of a big structure. 3 titanium bolts, 4 slings.

  7. Old pitch that traverses left on threads. Dangerous and never climbed.

Three raps with a 60m rope on separate abseil anchors from the top of pitch 5. If you have a 70m rope, you can rap straight from the top of pitch 6 to the next set of anchors.

Set: Greg Collum & Trevor Massiah, 1995

Set: Shamick Byszewski, 1996

1 6a+ 20m
2 6a+ 22m
3 6b 20m
4 6b 30m

Trad climb, which was used to open 'Humanality'.

Set: Greg Collum & Trevor Massiah, 1995

Unfinished project on the short wall below P1 of 'Humanality'. About 8a or higher. Now behind the small shack right of the Freedom Bar.

On the short wall below P1 of 'Humanality', now covered by the small shack right of the Freedom Bar.

Set: Emil Karlsson & Adriaan Labout, 2007

Starts at the platform of the Freedom Bar. Crux is right at the start. 5 stainless steel glue-in bolts, 6 slings.

Set: Han, 2006

The leftmost line on the terrace right of 'Humanality'. All titanium bolts.

Set: Will Hair, 1994

Shares the start with 'Cowabungalow', then right towards the small cave. Be careful with loose rock in the upper part. 5 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

Set: Ghop & The RockShop, 2016

Short crux about halfway. All titanium bolts.

Set: Will Hair, 1994

Head up the ladder then straight up the wall, which gets increasingly overhanging. 6 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Set: Max Dufford & Greg Collum, 1992

Squeezed just right of 'Viking in Heat'. In Wee's update. All titanium bolts.

Set: Wee Changrua, 2006

Do not skip the crux by going right towards the anchor -- only 6b then and risk of breaking the fragile tufas. All titanium bolts.

Set: Max Dufford & Divinder Singh, 1992

The leftmost line on the upper terrace. Shares anchors with 'Silkcat'. 3 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

Set: Wee Changrua & Elke Schmitz, 2004

Shares the first two clips with 'Tom Yum' and anchors with 'Big Guy Loosing the Cat'. 2 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

Set: Shamick Byszewski, 1997

Big moves on big holds. Getting polished, but still worth climbing. Shares the first two clips with 'Silkcat', then up right. 3 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Set: Larissa Collum & Greg Collum, 1992

5 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Set: Alex Wenner & Mark Maffei, 1993

All titanium bolts.

Set: Ghop & The RockShop, 2013

Starts on the very right edge of the upper terrace. Start is a little hard to read. 5 titanium bolts, 4 slings.

Set: Mark Maffei & Alex Wenner, 1992

Routes start right off the beach below the roof.

Crawling through the corner on the very left side of the roof. Careful, anchors not equipped with rings. Do not lower through the slings! 1 titanium bolts, 6 slings.

Set: Dean Saydom, 1994

Stiff start up to the cauliflower, then traverses right on the rails. Nice moves, though very polished. All titanium bolts.

Set: Sam Lightner, Gerd Schoeffl & Volker Schoeffl, 1993

Shares anchors with 'Dragon Ball' and 'Old Chicken Makes a Good Soup'. All titanium bolts.

Set: Carlos Bresco, 1997

Very Dynamic climbing. Good fun! Shares anchors with 'Spanish Wreck' and 'Old Chicken Makes a Good Soup'. All titanium bolts.

Set: Hee Youn Kang, 2000

Original grade 8a. Upgraded after breakage of a stalactite. Shares anchors with 'Spanish Wreck' and 'Dragon Ball'. 6 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Set: Rolando Larcher, 1995

Original grade 7c. Upgraded after breakage of a stalactite in 2006. All titanium bolts.

Set: Will Hair, 1994

Very popular and very polished, short and powerful with a tendency to spit you off with sloppy beta. Make sure your belayer is paying attention otherwise you could end up with a mouth full of sand. All titanium bolts.

Set: Greg Collum & Larissa Collum, 1992

Original grade 7b+. Upgraded due to a broken hold. Titanium bolts.

Set: Will Hair, 1993

Old route just right of 'Baby Gorilla'. Never climbed. Old stainless steel glue-in bolts.

Set: Han, 2006

Old route just left of 'Tantrum'. Never climbed. Old stainless steel glue-in bolts.

Set: Han, 2006

The Tonsai beach classic! Get on it. All titanium bolts.

Set: Alex Catlin, 1994

Old route just left of 'Cafe Andaman'. Never climbed. Old stainless steel glue-in bolts.

Set: Han, 2006

Climbs straight up the obvious tufa, then traverses left. Finishes in the small cave next to the anchor. Top section can seep after rain. Titanium bolts.

Set: Greg Collum & Trevor Massiah, 1994

Old route, sharing the start with 'Ton Sai Playboy', but going up into the left roof after the 3rd clip. Rusty expansion bolts, anchors seem to have been removed. Cannot be climbed anymore.

Set: Han, 2006

Very popular, easy start to pumpy roof climbing. Just keep moving all the way to the anchors! Very fun! Take the left line after the fourth bolt, or you end up in 'Playboy Connection'. Titanium bolts and slings.

Set: Han, 2006

Linkup. Start at 'Ton Sai Playboy' and continue right after 4th bolt to join 'Mafia Connection'. Often confused with 'Tonsai Playboy' as this route is missing in most guidebooks. All titanium bolts.

Starts just left of 'Love for Travelling', finishes on the anchor just right of 'Ton Sai Playboy'. Tricky start, pumpy finish. 5 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Set: Andrea Gallo & Steffen Frey, 1996

Finish variation after the early crux. Veers right after the 3rd bolt and joins 'Love for Travelling' just below the small roof. All titanium bolts.

Very nice line that, for some reason, gets much less attention than the popular and always busy 'Lal Bab' or 'Babes in Thailand', although it is just as good. A bit of an awkward stemming start to get onto the thick stalactite. Some nice 3D climbing towards the small roof, which is actually easier than it looks once you've sorted out the beta. All titanium bolts.

Set: Hee Youn Kang, 2000

Shares the first bolt with 'Germans in Tights', then left. All titanium bolts.

Set: Will Hair, 1994

Shares the first bolt with 'Just Dusit', then right. All titanium bolts.

Set: Will Hair, 1994

Another great line that is often overlooked and sees by far not as much traffic as many of the "classics" in the roof. Boulder out the start and then fight the pump to the anchors. All titanium bolts.

Set: Hee Youn Kang, 2000

Closed

The route has been closed and the bolts removed (see comments). The original description is preserved for posterity:

Awesome route !!! A little bit psycho when you must fall on the tufa. Seems to be 6C for people under 1.70m, for the other 6a+. But, you should do this route!!!

Set: Bjoern Alber & Nantawan Alber, 2005

Original grade 6a+. Upgraded after breakage of a huge stalactite in 2004. Good climbing other than the broken section, which wrecks thew flow. Still fun and still worth it. 6 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Set: Will Hair, 1994

Popular climb on pinches and jugs. All titanium bolts.

Set: Will Hair, 1994

All titanium bolts.

Set: Hee Youn Kang, 2000

Early crux, followed by big powerful moves on jugs in the first half, then much easier and less steep to the top. All titanium bolts.

Set: Ian Tumball, 1995

4 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Set: Hee Youn Kang, 1999

Too much fun for one climb. All titanium bolts.

Set: Sam Lightner, 1998

All titanium bolts.

Set: Hee Youn Kang, 2000

All titanium bolts.

Set: Max Dufford, 1995

A real classic of the area. Originally graded 8a and still is if you go direct, nowadays most people head out right to the large tufa midway essentially avoiding the crux. All titanium bolts.

Set: Max Dufford & Divinder Singh, 1992

All titanium bolts.

Set: Carlos Bresco, 1997

Start variation to the right of 'Cara Cangreso'. Joins on the headwall. All titanium bolts.

Set: Czech climbers, 1999

Another Tonsai beach classic! Starts on the crack right of 'Czech Open'. All titanium bolts.

Set: Max Dufford & Divinder Singh, 1992

Starts 5m right of 'Gaeng Som Pla', straight through the steep grey roof into the structured rock below the anchor. 5 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Set: Ghop & The RockShop team, 2008

Traverse following the crack and the ledge on the roof. All titanium bolts.

Set: Bjoern Alber, Nantawan Alber & Robert Baier, 2010

Traverses left along the upper crack in the roof, right and above 'Speak no Evil'. All titanium bolts.

Set: Ymer Alber, Bjoern Alber & Henrik Bolander, 2015

The furthest line to right behind the bushes. Traverses left along the edge of the roof. All titanium bolts.

Set: Bjoern Alber & Henrik Bolander, Jan 2016

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