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Description

Exposed and adventurous multi-pitch climbing, offering fantastic views. Only for experienced climbers! If you are looking for more beginner-friendly multi-pitch climbing, consider 'Big Wave' or 'Beauty & The Beast' at 'Monkey World' sector.

Access issues inherited from Ton Sai

No road access. From Ao Nang hire a longtail boat to take you around to Ton Sai. Boats only operate during the day.

Routes

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Grade Route

Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb!

Set: Ramon & Pon Yang Yan, 2000

Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb!

Set: Ian Turnbull, 1995

Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb!

Set: Ramon & Pon Yang Yan, 2000

1 6b+ 28m
2 7a 20m
3 6b 20m
4 6a+ 20m

First pitch gives access to a huge cave with multiple windows, from which all multi-pitch routes on the Monitor Wall start.

  1. Straight up from the ground to the first anchor at the bottom of the cave. From the anchor scramble up left for about 10m into the cave. Follow a fixed rope down the cave and turn left to a cave window, where the belay anchor for P2 is located.

  2. Facing out the cave, climb up left.

  3. Climb up the left side of the huge stalactite.

  4. Straight up to the anchor located in a cave.

Bring two 60m ropes and leave the second rope at the abseil anchor next to the anchor of P2, which is located in a cave behind the huge stalactite. From there it's a 60m rap to the ground.

Set: Tom Cecil, Drew Spaulding & Mark Miner, 2001

Alternative access pitch to the huge multi-pitch cave, leading to the right cave window. Anchors are not equipped.

Set: Drew Spaulding, 2010

Closed
1 6b
2 6b+
3 6c
4 6b+

Old route, replaced by 'The Monitor'. Rusty old bolts. Cannot be climbed anymore.

Set: Hany Lutz & Paul Brunner, 1996

Closed
1 6b+ 30m
2 6c+ 20m

Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb!

Set: Tom Cecil, Drew Spaulding & Mark Miner, 2001

Closed

Alternative second pitch of 'Shaft of Light'. Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb!

Set: Tom Cecil, Drew Spaulding & Mark Miner, 2001

1 7a
2 6c
3 6a

Great climbing. Access by climbing the first pitch of 'The Monitor'. Then scramble up and left into a big cave with multiple windows. Climb up right onto a ledge with two cave windows. Take the belay anchor on the right side of the right window.

  1. Facing out the cave, climb up right over a bulge.

  2. Climb up to the anchor behind the huge stalactite.

  3. Up on the other side of the stalactite.

Bring two 60m ropes for rapping down. Fix the second rope at the belay anchor in the cave to pull yourself back when abseiling. Walk back through the cave and rappel from the belay anchor for the second pitch of 'The Monitor'.

Set: Drew Spaulding & Tye, 2004

1 6c 20m
2 5b 10m
3 6b+ 20m

Access by climbing the first pitch of 'The Monitor'. Scramble up and left into a big cave with multiple windows. Climb up right onto a ledge with two cave windows. Take the belay anchor on the right side of the right window.

  1. Facing out the cave, climb up left around the stalactite.

  2. Same as 'Monkey See, Monkey Do' P2. Traverse the big ledge to the right for three bolts. This is more a hike then climbing and can be linked with P1. Use the left anchor.

  3. Straight up.

Rap down to the anchor of P1, while backclipping. Abseil into the cave. Walk through the cave to the belay anchor for P2 of 'The Monitor', from which you can rappel to the ground.

Set: Tom Cecil, Justin Day & Brian Cornwell, 2004

1 6b 20m
2 5b 10m
3 6b+ 20m
4 6b 35m

Could be the best multi pitch at the grade on the peninsular. Great climbing, especially on the upper pitches. Access by climbing the first pitch of 'The Monitor'. Then scramble up left into a big cave with multiple windows. Climb up right onto a ledge with two cave windows. Move down to the left side of the left window to find the belay anchor.

  1. Facing out the cave, left up onto a ledge.

  2. Same as 'Snakeskin' P2. Traverse the big ledge to the right for three bolts. This is more a hike then climbing and can be linked with P1. Use the left anchor.

  3. From the anchor head straight up through overhanging terrain over multiple ledges. End up in a hanging belay to the right of the huge stalactite feature.

  4. Follow 3 horizontal lined up bolts to another anchor onto the big stalactite. From here straight up through a crack onto the face. Enjoy the view but keep focused on the climb, it's mental. 15 quickdraws needed.

Bring two 60m ropes to rap off. Fix the second rope at the anchor of P2 and use it to pull yourself back while abseiling (overhanging rock).

Set: Drew Spaulding, Justin Day, Jean & Noam, 2005

Starts left of the anchor of 'Snakeskin' P2. Climbs up to an anchor a bit below left of the anchor of 'Monkey See, Monkey Do', under a stalactite.

Set: 2019

Starts right of the anchor of 'Snakeskin' P2 and climbs up straight to an anchor a bit right and above the anchor of 'Snakeskin' P3.

Set: Drew Spaulding, 2006

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