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Description

The first new Crag in Tonsai for a long time is here, and it was worth the wait. The Gibbon Roof's features a 15m completely horizontal roof peppered with loads of pockets, flakes, jugs, kneebars and other interesting features guaranteed to get those forearms well and truly pumped!

Access issues inherited from Ton Sai

No road access. From Ao Nang hire a longtail boat to take you around to Ton Sai. Boats only operate during the day.

Approach

Walk up the track past Mama's Chicken and the yoga place. About 100m past the last bungalows take a small track to the right with a sign saying Gibbon Roof. After another 50m you will see the cave.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Four easy warm-up climbs that start about 50m left of 'Infected Mushrooms'.

Nice move at the beginning, than an easy slab to the anchor. 1 titanium bolt, 7 slings.

Set: Simon Talltorp, 2016

Easy climb, interesting features. 1 titanium bolt, 8 slings.

Set: Simon Talltorp, Feb 2016

Shares the start with 'The Guardian of the Shards of Humanity', then left at the first sling. 2 titanium bolts, 4 slings.

Set: Simon Talltorp, Jan 2016

Easy climbing. Shares the first three slings with 'I Don't Want Your Bricks'. All slings.

Set: Simon Talltorp, Jan 2016

Very steep and pumpy climbing for the grade. All slings.

Set: Alex Kopinski, 28 Feb 2014

FA: Alex Kopinski, 28 Feb 2014

Starts 20m right of 'Infected Mushroom'. Bouldery start to exit the cave, then some easier moves around the tufas and a pumpy traverse to the anchor. Shares anchors with 'N.W.A.'. 4 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Set: Glenn, 10 Jan 2016

FA: Glenn, 5 Feb 2016

Traverses out left along the crack and shelves. Shares anchors with 'Rumble in the Jungle'. All titanium bolts.

FA: Christian Holzschuh

Set: Simon Talltorp, Feb 2015

Must-do climb. Steep climbing on good holds. 5 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Set: Glenn Smith, Andrew Anderson & Simon Talltorp, 15 Mar 2014

FA: Andrew Anderson, 16 Mar 2014

Amazing roof climbing. 7 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Set: Glenn Smith, Andrew Anderson & Simon Talltorp, Mar 2014

FA: Mar 2014

Climbs to the first set of anchors at the end of the roof of 'Bros before Hoes'. 5 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Set: Glenn Smith, Andrew Anderson & Simon Talltorp

FA: Glenn Smith

Shares anchors with 'Half Crunch'. 4 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

FA: Simon Talltorp

Set: Simon Talltorp, Mar 2014

It's crunch time! Climbs right out through the widest section of the Gibbon Roof. 8 titanium bolts, 3 slings.

Set: Glenn Smith, Andrew Anderson & Simon Talltorp, Mar 2014

FA: Glenn Smith, Mar 2014

Climbs the first half of 'Captain Crunch'. Has lower offs. 3 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

Set: Glenn Smith, Andrew Anderson & Simon Talltorp, Mar 2014

FA: Glenn Smith, Mar 2014

Powerful climbing. All titanium bolts.

Set: Andrew Anderson & Christian Holzschuh, 5 Mar 2015

FA: Christian Holzschuh, 24 Feb 2016

Stick-clip the first bolt! 2 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Set: Glenn Smith, Andrew Anderson & Simon Talltorp, Mar 2014

FA: Glenn Smith, Mar 2014

Super! Hard start, even harder finish. 7 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

Set: Glenn Smith, Andrew Anderson & Simon Talltorp, Mar 2014

FFA: Thierry Caillaud, Jan 2017

A wild adventure, Ninja your way through the roof and an exciting final headwall. 8 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Set: Glenn Smith

FFA: Glenn Smith, 25 Feb 2015

The line climbing the entire length of the roof! Starts up 'Straight out of Tonsai', branching right at its last bolt, then continuing straight all the way through the roof, finishing at its highest point, the anchors of 'Ninjas with Lasers'. Lots of climbing, lots of boulder problems, Open project. 23 titanium bolts, 3 slings.

Set: Glenn Smith, Andrew Anderson & Simon Talltorp, 4 Feb 2016

Starts on tufas on the very right of the roof. 8 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Set: Glenn Smith, Mar 2015

FFA: Thierry Caillaud, Jan 2017

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