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The Ego Free Zone

  • Grade context: FR
  • Photos: 10
  • Ascents: 745
  • Aka: Main face

Seasonality

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Description

To the right of Mezzanine, before the stairs going to Machette wall. Lots of long routes in amazing tufas, just enjoy.

Ethic inherited from Chong Phli - Spirit Mountain

Chong Phli is approximately 90% titanium bolts. There are slings used for some routes because of soft rock, where they tend to be safer than bolts. All anchors and slings are checked yearly to make sure they are safe.

Routes

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Grade Route

Start on Piranha, at ledge take left hand line to finish. Shares anchor with Piranha.

Set: Mark & Leif, 2011

Shares the first three clips with 'Red Herring'. Then right and back to the same anchor. 8 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Share anchor with Buzzsaw (Lefthand Variation).

Set: Mark & Fred, 2011

Extension to Piranha. Beautiful dynamic face climbing leads to a tricky transition onto an amazing European-style tufa with slopes, crimps, and a long sustained crux sequence with no rest. Absolute classic !!

Set: DnD, 18 Dec 2022

FA: DnD, 8 Feb 2023

Red fixed draws (left of Buzzsaw). Really lovely climb with beautiful movement! Continue in a straight line on to slab above, links into Buzzsaw, finish on green anchor.

Set: DnD, 2 Feb 2023

FA: Dnd, 4 Feb 2023

Same start as Buzzsaw, up the black slab, take LEFT hand line to finish. Shares anchors with Seesaw.

Set: Mike & Lawrence, 2011

Same start as Buzzsaw, then climb RIGHT hand line, up thin technical slab to finish. Shares anchor with Buzzsaw.

Set: Mark & Lawrence, 2011

Extension above Buzzsaw/Seesaw. Super rad! Crimpy fun!

Set: DnDnD, 3 Apr 2023

Super super super classic, start on brown ladder, finish on the pedestal ledge.

Set: DnD, 1 Apr 2023

Right of ladder, overhanging start, then up slab, finish on pedestal ledge.

Set: DnD, 24 Apr 2023

FA: Eugene from Singapore, 25 Apr 2023

First route to the right of Foot Prints. Starts up blocky face/arete for 5 bolts, then re-join Foot Prints up slab to pedestal and anchor finish.

Set: DnD, 24 Apr 2023

Starts right of the boulder. Unique climbing with a technical ending on an arete. 10 titanium bolts, 3 slings.

Set: Mike, Vinny, Frank & Lawrence, 2011

Start up 'Hook Line Sinker' arete, pull the lip to anchor and head left up orange slab!

Can climb with 70m rope, 1 pitch.

Set: dnd, 10 Nov

FA: dnd, 12 Nov

Extension, Hook, Line, Sinker - 2nd pitch. Absolutely SUPERB climbing on orange stalactites, takes you almost to the top of the wall! Can climb as one pitch from ground, (80 metre rope), or can climb as two pitches (60 metre rope).

Ti bolts and slings. Ti anchor ring 22/4/23

Set: Cal

FFA: Cal

Start up Hook Line and Sinker arete, one clip before anchor, traverse right through big roof, mantel outside lip/hole to finish - anchor on right side arete.

Set: DnD, 4 Jun 2023

Start on Finding Nemo, continue up arete (Hook Line and Sinker), at 3rd bolt on arete traverse right on vertical white face, and into juggy roof - Shares anchor with Rampage. Has fixed draws.

Set: DnD, 26 Jul 2023

Go and try !! Open Project !!

Absolute classic moves in the crux !!

Set: DnD, 8 May 2023

7 titanium bolts, 7 slings.

Set: Lawrence, Steve & Mike, 2011

Second line on the huge tufa system. Anchor right next to 'Deflowered'. Maybe stick-clip the first sling. 8 titanium bolts, 8 slings.

Set: Mike, Vinny, Bob & Fred, 2011

3 titanium bolts, 10 slings.

Set: Mike, Vinny, Bob & Dave, 2011

Shares the first half with 'Family Affair', then straight up to the left lower anchor. 3 bolts, 10 slings. TI Anchor ring (2022)

Set: Mike, Leif, Dean & Simon, 2011

Shares the start with 'EFZ', then right and up to the higher anchor. 6 titanium bolts, 8 slings.

Set: Mike, Leif, Dean & Simon, 2011

'Family Affair' extension, 1 sling, 4 bolts, + anchor. 80 metre rope can lower back to ground, put a knot on the end to be safe.

Set: DnD & Mike, 8 Feb

Shares anchors with 'Mad Skills'. 7 titanium bolts, 1 slings.

Set: Mike & Lawrence, 2011

Shares anchors with 'Zac Attack'. 5 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

Set: Mike & Lawrence, 2011

7 titanium bolts, 4 slings.

Set: Mike & Lawrence, 2011

Easier variation to the intermediate anchor. Nowadays there isn't a real anchor point to pass the rope through to back to the ground, just a two bolts. Shares the finish with '8ish P1'.

Set: Mike & Lawrence, 2011

All TI bolts.

Set: Fred, 2011

Easier variation to the intermediate anchor. Nowadays there isn't a real anchor point to pass the rope through to back to the ground, just a two bolts. Shares the finish with 'Mantally Ill P1'.

Set: Fred, 2011

Shares the start with 'Round the Bend', then left. 6 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

Set: Leif & Mike, 2011

Shares the start with Carbunkle, then right. 8 titanium bolts, 4 slings.

Set: Mike & Leif, 2011

Follows a normal distribution, up and right to the anchor.

Set: DnD, 1 Mar 2021

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Tue 22 Feb
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