Routes in The School of Rock for selected grade

The first pitch of this climb is terrific for the blossoming novice. The remaining two pitches are fun as well, and offer a healthy measure of exposure. The combination makes an excellent first lead on a very moderate surface. Unfortunately, during each pitch the belayer will eventually lose sight of the climber, making crisp vocal communication critical.

The description that follows is for a multi-pitched ascent to the top, but brand new climbers will have more fun just top-roping the first pitch alone.

A. Pilgrim’s Progress First Pitch, YDS: 5.4, FR: 3

1. Rely on ledges and steps all the way up to, and through, a face bounded on the right by a blocky uneven ridge. A spacious joint between this ridge and the face makes for solid cam and hex placements.

2. Pull over the upper edge of the face onto a counter top. (After top roping, this counter is the best place from which to be lowered. Climbing farther until to reach the natural anchor points beyond the vision of your belayer can make for weak communication and an awkward descent.)

3. If leading, continue up big and easy steps to stacks of boulders. Build a sturdy four-point cordelette anchor and belay your second up to this spot.

B. Pilgrim’s Progress Second Pitch, YDS: 5.5, FR: 4a

You’ll easily find your way along this short ridge line that leads to the exposed cliff on the other side.

1. Edge yourself out over the abyss, pausing long enough to place some pro about midway.

2. Soon, you’re back on solid ground and working your way up to a bolted belay station on the main ridge of the buttress.

3. Secure yourself, get rigged for your partner, and belay on, bro! It’s a nice perch from which to enjoy a spectacular view while you wait for your second to join you.

C. Pilgrim’s Progress Third Pitch, YDS: 5.6, FR: 4b

1. From the bolts, move left past a shallow window that penetrates through the buttress.

2. Go briefly up and right, onto a face and then a gutter that leads to an exposed bolted horn.

3. Follow the buttress upward for a few more, low angled meters and continue along the incline for a glimpse over the edge.

4. To rig a belay station, return to the horn and incorporate the bolt into your anchor system.

After belaying the second and cleaning up the gear, use doubled 60 meter lines to rap from slings, down the east side of the Right Wall, and then to boulders on the ground. When you touch down you should be just 40 meters uphill from where you began at the base of Pilgrim’s first pitch.

The massive crevice slicing down from the top of the Terminator Buttress is both cool and spooky. Climbing up into the gap itself is messy business due to some thick foliation and plenty of loose rock. Plus, lurking in the darkness above are dozens of toaster-sized boulders perched on a hidden ramp. (Beware: these widow makers are just waiting to cascade at the slightest offense.)

Jim Ryan and Christian Hettick initially explored some ground-up climbing in The Schism, but found it to be an inhospitable place. If you decide to make the attempt, watch for pieces of the abseil anchor they built for their escape.

The headwall face left and adjacent to The Schism offers what looks to be some challenging climbing. A few bits of tired pro (pitons and bolts) still remain from some past archaic project. Good luck with that!

Starting from the base of the Head Wall, continue hiking toward the summit, left and up around the Terminator. The cliffs to your right offer some areas to investigate as well as a variety of potential routes to the top of the Terminator. Side Winder is just one of these, and since the route itself isn’t that interesting, it won’t get a description here. Besides, you’ll probably have more fun poking around and finding your own way up. I mention it to let you know the area has been explored a little as a 5th class access to the summit of The Terminator Buttress.