This feature stands like a tall island (or row of islands) in the wide stony passage that leads up from the Star Wars Buttress to the summit. Across the scree from the starting point of X-Wing and Jedi Mind Trick, the lower base of the Middle Buttress is reached by moving uphill and to the right a dozen paces or so. Three climbs have been put up here, but only one gets much follow up use.
To access the upper reaches for setting a top rope, hike from the lower base for about 15 meters uphill along the south side of the buttress. This brings you to a divide stuffed with two, freight car-sized boulders and assorted debris. The divide separates the lowest island of the buttress from its higher neighbor to the east, and in it you’ll find a very steep passage that requires 4th class moves when accessing the top. Look for notched steps, carved into the lining walls by previous users. (At one time, someone apparently made a routine of reaching this position.)
Above the divide, move left onto the lower island and seek out a suitable anchorage depending on the route you’ll be working. For the horn above Hyperdrive, a couple of long slings will probably be enough. But for the rough open corner at the top of Launch Pad, you’ll need the kind of multi-pointed anchor system that requires knowledge and experience to build. Your gear should probably include a handful of draws and stoppers (#1-3), a couple of cams (#1-2), some slings and a long narrow gauged line for making a cordelette.
Featured routes include: