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Summary

A beautiful rock with lots of sport potential. Unfortunately, only top rope as of December 2017.

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Description

Excellent slab climbing near Gulu. As of December 2017, nothing had been bolted. There is no trad potential, however, using slings and large cams, a number of excellent routes can be setup for top rope. If a few belay chains could be installed, lots of great climbing could be enjoyed at this site. Several dozen routes look possible for top rope or sport climbing if this crag gets bolted. The three routes listed here, Going Up on Nothing, Normal Route, and Swing Around all uses the same anchor. Directionals help keep you on route in case of a fall.

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Access issues

Local reception has been friendly and without incident. Climbers from Gulu, Kampala, and The Recreation Project have reported no access issues or required payment/fees.

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Approach

This is the tallest/biggest rock you can see around. It is visible from Patiko and from Sir Samuel Baker's Fort. The best known climbing is on the highest/most obvious rock.

From Gulu, the drive is about 55 kms. Take the road to Patiko, then follow this pin and park here: https://goo.gl/maps/xHwk8KcoMLu

The last couple hundred meters of the drive to the parking is on a rough secondary/dirt/murram road. Alternatively, you could easily park out on the main road and walk in. Even walking from Patiko town would be easy enough.

From the parking area at the pin, walk up the very large exposed ramp of rock. At the top of the ramp, trend left towards the taller rocks and cliffs. This is the climbing area.

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Where to stay

Gulu is just an hour away. The Palm Garden Resort has secure parking, food, and self-contained rooms for 36k. Bush camping is certainly possible nearby, just ask the locals. Patiko probably has a guest house. Adjumani is also an option, though a bit further away.

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Ethic

Very little climbing goes on here although this is excellent rock. The Recreation Project in Gulu sometimes uses this slab for abseiling with kids. Check out their website and contact them for more details. As of December 2017, they were keen to have some lower offs/belay points bolted on the rock. With a little asking around and confirmation, permission to bolt might easily be granted. It isn't clear who would need to "permit" bolting but good to ask around anyway.

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History

History timeline chart

The Recreation Project has used this for a few years. No other climbing history on this rock has been documented.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Matt Battani (Matt Battani)

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