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Summary

An excellent rock near Kotido. Lots of potential single pitch trad lines.

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Description

Once you’ve made it this far, you are really spoiled for choice! Leave Kotido for Kabong. Shortly after leaving town you will start to see many trad possibilities on your left and right. After driving out for about 30 mins, we turned back in favor of this rock: 03°06.941’N, 034°09.524’E (Kenny’s Rock)

Kenny’s Rock is only about 15 minutes from the center of Kotido. There are at least a dozen trad possibilities on this rock. It is very hard granite and excellent for pro. There are lots of cracks and big pockets. There are some great natural anchors so you could top rope some climbs if preferred. Careful of bees and hornets as there are many living in the pockets of this beautiful rock. If dry, you can drive right up to the base of the rock. Climbs vary from very difficult to hard very severe and probably much more. We didn’t have time to explore extensively. Climbs are about 25-40m.

Locals are very curious and don’t seem familiar with climbing. If you continue on the road all the way to Kabong and eventually to Kidepo NP, you will see lots of other trad climbs along the way. The quality and height tends to increase the further north you go all the way near Kidepo.

If you leave Kidepo via the Kitgum road, you will see very many impressive mountains and climbing cliffs along the way. This part of Uganda would take years to explore. Please explore and post. This area is amazing and almost nothing here has ever been climbed probably due to geographic isolation and also possibly due to years of past violence/instability. Thankfully, that is now in the past and this area is ripe for exploration.

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Access issues

Free and unrestricted. Locals always ask for money but climbers have not had to pay in the past.

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Approach

Hike up is easiest on the southeast side.

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Where to stay

Las Vegas Hotel: 0786403656. Clean rooms, great local food. Cheap. Order hours in advance or even the day before if possible. Las Vegas Coordinates: 2°59'50.0"N 34°06'27.2"E (it is a bit hard to find)

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Ethic

Please build positive relationships with the local people to help future climbers.

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History

History timeline chart

First climbed in 2016 and revisited in 2017.

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Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Matt Battani (Matt Battani)

Routes

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Grade Route

In the northwest corner there is a severe trad climb called “Thanks to Amanda”. You’ll start by scrambling up 2m to a small ledge. Then put in your first pro, shortly followed by two more pieces. Careful of the boulder on your left. It could be loose. After the boulder, the climb is straightforward and you’ll get a couple more pieces of pro in. The last 12m of the climb follows a positive incline with many excellent footholds, but scant chances to put in pro, so falls near the end could be very dangerous. You can abseil down off boulders at the top. This climb is about 22m.

FFA: Matt Battani, 12 Jul 2016

A unique combination of slab, open book, off width and crack climbing that requires a variety of skills and techniques.

FA: Matt Battani, 12 Jul 2016

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