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Summary

Uganda's most classic and iconic multipitch trad climb.

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Description

This easy trad climb is great for beginners. There is excellent pro and nice pitches all the way up. The biggest risk is probably getting lost on the rap down. The biggest annoyance is probably the hike in or the bushiness of the route.

Puff adders and scorpions call this place home, so watch out!

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Access issues

Free and unrestricted, though climbers always leave a gift behind to thank the community for the warm welcome.

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Approach

You can drive off the main road back through the village at the foot of Amiel several hundred meters. Have a local person direct you. From there, you'll need locals to help show you the path to the first pitch. The hike is 30-45 minutes and steep. It's bushy in rainy season and miserable when hot.

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Where to stay

Amiel is easily reachable from a guest house in Kalongo.

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Ethic

Over the years, climbers have built up a very solid relationship with the local community. Please work to keep this up for future climbers. Also, please don't bolt the trad routes here. Amiel has many other faces that could be bolted. Please ask the locals for their blessing in any bolting projects.

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History

History timeline chart

First Ascent: pitches 1-9 R.M. Bere and his D.C. (1931) Second Ascent: Anna and Henry Osmaston (April 1950). Amiel Osmaston was born later and named after this rock. Full Ascent: Henry Osmaston and Andrew Stuart (April 1959).

In recent years, Amiel gets climbed at least several times per year.

You can find several articles about Amiel from the old days via a simple internet search which provides some fun reading if you're planning a trip here.

Allegedly, the route's cracks and gullys providing hiding places for children during the LRA war. In any case, the local population know the start of the route very well. Some may even join you at the summit.

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Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Matt Battani (Matt Battani)

Routes

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Grade Route

Have a local show you to the first pitch. In total, this climb is four pitches, though you could stretch it into three. There are plenty of bushes and trees along the way to protect your descent without needed to lose much tack.

Follow the broken pillars and cracks up the northeast butress. Careful to rap down exactly as you ascended or you might find yourself in a sticky position.

While you could do this in boots/shoes, climbing shoes make it much more enjoyable. We've left our boots waiting for us at the start of the first pitch on pasts climbs. Locals will look after them for you and haven't bothered our stuff in the past.

FFA: R. M. Bere, 1931

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