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Summary

Lots of potential at this 1-2 pitch trad crag nearby to Rwot, Amiel, Mt. Oret, Paimol, Akwang, and Kilibi. This is trad climbing central in UG!

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Description

Description by L. Hodgkinson

The crag is a smallish broken buttress, around 100m high on the north side of Lira road between Alerek and Loyoroit, about 5k past the goliath Rwot. There is good potential for 20-30 new routes of varying difficulties between 20-100m. It’s ideal for a good warm-up or warm down for the all-day climbs of Rwot, Kilibi, Amiel or Mt. Oret (Kalongo). The rock is mainly solid and the descent is easy. You’ll also see other potential in the area that we haven’t had time to explore.

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Access issues

No issues to report. Did not pay local community. Only climbed once.

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Approach

Access is via a quick off-road excursion in high grass between trees towards the rock (mainly to hide your vehicle and prevent a commotion) and then a five-minute walk/scramble to the face.

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Where to stay

Reachable from a guesthouse in Kalongo

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Ethic

Please strive to build positive relations with the local community to help future climbers.

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History

History timeline chart

First ascent was L. Hodgkinson, D. Willette and J. Foye Dec 2015.

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Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Matt Battani (Matt Battani)

Routes

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Grade Route

Description by L. Hodgkinson

Pitch 1 45m (15) Start at the centre of the buttress beneath a tree growing ~4m up the rock. Move easily up a broken wall to the tree and then trend left up runnels and shallow cracks to the large break under an overhanging boulder. Watch out for bees whilst traversing the ledge to the right, then thrutch up the flared chimney onto a large landing followed by a short scramble up a vegetated gulley to a large tree belay.

Pitch 2 50m (10) Move left out onto the edge of the ridge and take a direct, airy scramble up and over the knife-edge until it flattens out just before the summit. Take a seated or standing belay some point back from the ridge, unless your rope is longer than 50m in which case you might make it to the boulders. You can un-rope and scramble to the very top from here.

Descent is a 15-minute walk down along the foot of the west face of the buttress.

FFA: L. Hodgkinson, D. Willette & J. Foye, Dec 2015

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Activity

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