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Access issues inherited from North Side

Situated on land owned by the National Trust, the North Side crags have fewer access restrictions than the south side crags, though the situation is still sensitive. Check the BMC website here https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/rad/viewcrag.aspx?id=929 for the most up to date information.

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Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Gordon Jenkin, 2007

Start as for 'Three Pounds Per Tonne' but step right to get to the 1st bolt. The more logical start off the large ledge goes at F5.

FA: Gordon Jenkin & Edwin Heslam, 2008

FA: Gordon Jenkin, 2007

FA: Gordon Jenkin, 2007

FA: Gordon Jenkin, 2007

FA: Gordon Jenkin, Mark Richards, Yvonne Jones, Tania Almeida & Eva Portillo, 2008

FA: Gordon Jenkin, 2007

Just left of and shares anchors with 'Galena Colada'.

FA: Gordon Jenkin, M. Tomlinson & M. Geddes-Barton, 2007

A great route albeit with a polished and difficult start. Get past the 1st bolt and some enjoyable climbing that doesn't let up awaits. Plenty of bolts make french-freeing of this route possible.

FA: Gordon Jenkin, 2004

Finishes at a 2BB.

FA: Martin Crocker & Gordon Jenkin, 1985

Now a sport route. Originally trad at E15b

FA: Rob Kingston (without bolts), 1986

Finish at the 2BB of 'No Time to Lose'.

FA: Martin Crocker & John Harwood, 2004

FA: Matt Ward (I) & Martin Crocker, 1986

FA: Francis Haden & Martin Crocker, 1994

Finishes at a 2BB above the break.

FA: Martin Crocker & Gordon Jenkin, 1985

FA: Martin Crocker, 1990

FA: Matt Ward (I) & Martin Crocker, 1986

FA: Gordon Jenkin & Max Page, 2004

Now a sport route, originally climbed as trad at E2 5b

FA: Rob Kingston & Dave Vousden (without bolts), 1986

Break off from 'Off the Wall' at its second bolt. The final roof can be escaped by heading left and rejoining 'Off the Wall' (for a grade of 6b).

FA: Gordon Jenkin & Yvonne Jones, 2004

FA: Geoff Sutton & Miss A Clark, 1954

FA: Chris Newton-Goverd, 2002

FA: Chris Newton-Goverd, 2002

The flake crack.

FA: Matt Ward (I) as solo, 1986

A right-to-left traverse that is sure to cause chaos when the crag is busy. Follow 'Don't Fear the Bleater' to its 3rd bolt, then traverse left and up to the anchor of 'Hug the Jug'. Clip the bolt under the bulge then cross 'Breezes' . Follow the deep break leftwards to the abseil station of 'Snug as a Slug on a Jug' .

FA: Gordon Jenkin, 2004

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