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Summary

The dewerstone boasts some of the best granite cracks and trad climbs in the inland UK at approachable grades. Multipitch trad lines coming out of a sheltered forest make this a top crag.

Description

The Dewerstone is one of the most popular locations in the south west, if going here you may want to arrive early in the morning in order to avoid the outdoor activities centers from getting in your way on your first ascent, other than that the dewerstone has many climbs in a few areas.

Access issues

The track leading to the dewerstone is very uneven and requires you to scramble over boulders. the steps leading down to the main face are very steep and uneven as well as very slippery when wet.

Approach

The dewerstone is approached from an obvious marked carpark (PL7 5HE). From the Dewerstone carpark follow the main track up along the river. Follow this for 20 minutes until rock outcrops start to appear. The main area is a very obvious large outcrop right next to the river.

The Dewerstone carpark is found on the south edge of Dartmoor national park and is only 30 min drive from the city of Plymouth.

Where to stay

Wild camping is allowed in parts of the Dartmoor park (check their website) but not at the Dewerstone itself. Alternatively, the dewerstone is not far from plymouth so any hotels or b&b on the outskirts of plymouth are ideal.

Ethic

Follow UK trad climbing ethic. No installation of bolts or defacing of rocks is accepted.

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