Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Shropshire Ippikins Rock Main Area Bouldering | |||||
FB:7A | 7A
Climb the prow from the back via some crimps and big moves up and left. | ||||
Shropshire Nesscliffe | |||||
E5 UKT:6b | Cones and Current | ||||
E5 UKT:6b | Jump | 16m | |||
E7 UKT:6c | Marlene Direct | ||||
E5 UKT:6b | Trouble in Toytown | ||||
E7 UKT:6c | Gathering Sun
FA: Nick Dixon, 1987 | 16m | |||
E6 UKT:6b | Bass Drum Heart | ||||
E5 UKT:6b | The Nuance | ||||
E5 UKT:6b | Nonsense | ||||
E8 UKT:6c | Cassini | ||||
E8 UKT:6c | Une Jeune Fille Quatre Vingt Dix Ans | ||||
E7 UKT:6c | 10 O'Clock Saturday Morning | ||||
E6 UKT:6b | Bird o'Clock | ||||
E7 UKT:6b | Bird Brain | ||||
E7 UKT:6c | Tombola
FA: Crispin Waddy | ||||
E8 UKT:6c | My Piano | ||||
E7 UKT:6c | Le Cirque | ||||
E6 UKT:6b | Khanaan | ||||
Shropshire Llanymynech Quarry Blind Faith Buttress | |||||
E7 UKT:6c | ★ Bad Ass Jenga
P1, E6 6c the obvious white shield left of the bottom pitch of Blind faith. Climb up below the wall, arrange gear in the crack on the left, climb up and right via a peg using some very small crimps (avoiding the section out left) before going straight up to the ledge above. P2, E5/6 6a. From the ledge. Move out left and go up the loose groove to the sloping ledge above. Climb straight up via the hanging fang block, stuck wire, to a sloping shelf handhold, hidden peg round to the left in a groovelet, (rest round to the right) before steep moves lead up and left onto a perched slab and belay. P3, E4 5b, move up and left above the belay and arrange gear, before pulling straight up through the dry stone wall section. Above, step left to a shot hole with a crack (gear) before moving back up and right to finish straight up more easily. Possibly E7 for the full route. | 50m, 3 | |||
Shropshire Llanymynech Quarry Cul-De-Sac Quarry | |||||
7c | ★★ Little Weed
This route follows the central crack-line and is highly regarded for its quality. The upper half of the climb poses a considerable challenge. | 10m | |||
Shropshire Llanymynech Quarry Black Wall | |||||
E5 UKT:6b | ★★★ Black is Beautiful
| 30m | |||
Forest Rock Main Face | |||||
FB:7A | Small Wall Eliminate | ||||
FB:7A | Stake House - SD | ||||
E3 UKT:6b | Senseless | 10m | |||
FB:7A | Sorcerer Arete | ||||
FB:7A | Sourcier | ||||
E4 UKT:6b | Sorcerer Direct | ||||
E5 UKT:6b | Sorcerer’s Apprentice | 11m | |||
E6 UKT:6b | Sorcerers Apprentice - variant Finish | 12m | |||
Forest Rock Cave | |||||
FB:7A | Sorceress - start - SD | ||||
E6 UKT:6b | Sorceress | 12m | |||
7c | The Medium | 12m | |||
The Brand | |||||
E8 UKT:6c | Branded
| ||||
E6 UKT:6b | Rurp The Wild Berserk
| 21m | |||
E5 UKT:6b | Rhythm Collision
| ||||
E5 UKT:6b | Burley but Sensitive
| 12m | |||
E5 UKT:6b | Ejected
| ||||
E6 UKT:6b | Boss Walk
| ||||
E8 UKT:6c | Shed of Dread
| 12m | |||
E6 UKT:6b | Amelia Rose
| 15m | |||
E6 UKT:6b | Scabby Banana
| ||||
E6 UKT:6b | Man from Atlantis
| 19m | |||
E5 UKT:6b | Gujerati Girl
| 23m | |||
E5 UKT:6b | The Last Post - Direct
| ||||
E6 UKT:6b | Basher
| ||||
E6 UKT:6b | Fluorescent Adolescent
| 19m | |||
Staffordshire Baldstones Gold Rush Buttress | |||||
E5 UKT:6b | National Hysteria
| 10m | |||
E6 UKT:6c | Riding the Gravy Train
| 11m | |||
Staffordshire Baldstones Rays Roof | |||||
E5 UKT:6b | Johnny's Indirect Rear Entry
The three dimensional slug-trail on the wall round right. | 6m | |||
FB:7A | Indirect Arête
The square arete on the left. | ||||
E7 UKT:6c | ★★★ Ray's Roof
Horizontal offwidth crack. FA: Ray Jardine, 1977 | 8m | |||
Staffordshire Hen Cloud Black Wall | |||||
E6 UKT:6c | ★ A Flabby Crack
FA: Neil Travers, 1992 | 10m | |||
E5 UKT:6b | ★★ The Stone Loach
FA: Gary Gibson, 1981 | 10m | |||
Staffordshire Ramshaw Rocks | |||||
E4 UKT:6b | ★★ Colly Wobble
FA: Simon Nadin & John Perry, 1987 | 11m | |||
{AU} V7 | ★★★ Tierdrop
| ||||
Staffordshire The Roaches Upper Tier | |||||
E6 UKT:6b | ★★ New Fi'nial
FA: Simon Nadin, Richard Davies & Gary Cooper, 1985 | 28m | |||
E5 UKT:6b | ★ 99% of Gargoyles Look like Bob Todd
FA: Simon Nadin, 1986 | 24m | |||
E7 UKT:6c | ★★★ Paralogism
FA: Simon Nadin, 1987 | 15m | |||
E5 UKT:6c | ★★ Antithesis
FA: Jonny Woodward, 1980 | 15m | |||
Staffordshire The Roaches Lower Tier Ascent of Man | |||||
E5 UKT:6b | ★★★ Catastrophe Internationale
From the right-hand end of the long elongated slot, climb straight up the steep wall by hard pulls on pebbles and desperate friction. The landing is hard. | 8m | |||
E4 UKT:6b | ★ Bareback Rider
The arete on its right-hand side and the high slab above. | 8m | |||
E3 UKT:6b | Days of Future Passed
Climb the rounded arete by laybacking to good gear and a though-provoking mantelshelf finish | 10m | |||
Staffordshire The Roaches Lower Tier Crystal Grazer | |||||
E4 UKT:6b | ★ Pindels Numb
Finger traverse left from the with increasing difficulty (V5 to here) and pull into the leaning corner with great difficulty. Once established, finish easily. | 10m | |||
E6 UKT:6c | Heredity
A direct start to A Fist Full of Crystals, avoiding the use of the right-hand side slab. | ||||
Staffordshire The Roaches Lower Tier Dorothy's Dilemma | |||||
E7 UKT:6b | Destination Earth
The slab is bold and precarious. A side-runner (placed on route) may stop you repeating the first ascensionist's bouncing trick but then the route is only really worth E4. | 12m | |||
E5 UKT:6b | Steps | 30m | |||
Staffordshire The Roaches Lower Tier Valkyrie Area | |||||
E6 UKT:6c | ★★ Northern Comfort
From the tip of the Valkyrie flake, climb the wall past some useful flakes to a finish up the left arete. Wild and very reachy. | 14m | |||
E5 UKT:6b | ★★★ Licence to Kill
From the top of the flake on Licence to Run continue straight up to the hanging crack above past seeming blankness. FA: Gary Cooper, 2000 | 22m | |||
Staffordshire The Roaches Lower Tier Smear Test Slab | |||||
E5 UKT:6b | ★★ Bloodstone | ||||
E6 UKT:6b | ★★ Bloodspeed | ||||
E6 UKT:6b | Cold Blood
From the junction of Pincer and Guano Gully, rock up onto the slab, and continue direct via a sustained sequence. | ||||
Staffordshire The Roaches Lower Tier Elegy Slab | |||||
E5 UKT:6b | ★★ Clive Coolhead Realises the Excitement of Knowing...
Strange name, good route! The right side of the Elegy slab is at the limit of friction and the grade varies from E4 to E6 depending on how high you put the side runner in The Bulger. A wire in Elegy can also be used to reduce the swing potential. | 14m | |||
Staffordshire The Roaches Lower Tier Kestrel Buttress | |||||
E7 UKT:6c | ★★★ Goldcrest
The impressive left arête of the Hawkwing buttress. | 18m | |||
E7 UKT:6c | ★★★ Logical Progression
The hanging lower arete just right of the Headless Horseman traverse is reached via a very hard traverse from the right to the enticing pockets and a lovely balancy move to stand up in them. The arete above is much easier. Good cams under the roof protect (back-rope useful) and a very poor cam in the right-hand pocket just about serves for the rest. | 20m | |||
E3 UKT:6b | Punch
Force a way into the hanging groove with great difficulty (and with overhead gear) then finish more easily through the shrubbery above. | 14m | |||
Staffordshire The Roaches Lower Tier Piece of Mind Slab | |||||
E6 UKT:6b | The Emergency Exit
Direct finish to Piece of Mind for those who find the easier/scarier rightward step to much to handle. | ||||
E8 UKT:6c | ★★ Final Destination
Continue direct up the bald slab above the start of Thin Air to a finish just right of Piece of Mind. | 9m | |||
Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Spring Boulders Boulder C(3PO) | |||||
{FB} 7A | ★ Spring Slab | ||||
Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Spring Boulders Boulder G | |||||
{FB} 7A | ★ The Grind | ||||
Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Lower Tier Lower Tier Boulders Boulder E | |||||
{FB} 7A | ★★ The Big Dyno | ||||
Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Lower Tier Inertia Reel Area | |||||
{FB} 7A | Ant Lives | ||||
{FB} 7A | A Modest Proposal | ||||
Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Upper Tier Upper Tier Boulders | |||||
{FB} 7A | ★ Nadin's Traverse
traverse R, finish up Pixie | ||||
{FB} 7A | ★ Broken Wing | ||||
Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Upper Tier Crack and Corner Area | |||||
{FB} 7A | Toucan | ||||
Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Upper Tier Calcutta Buttress | |||||
{FB} 7A | ★ Limbless Limbo Dancer | ||||
{FB} 7A | ★ Too Drunk | ||||
Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Upper Tier The Cellar | |||||
{FB} 7A | ★ The Gates | ||||
Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Roaches Skyline | |||||
{FB} 7A | The Man with the Red Face | ||||
Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Far Skyline Chasm Boulders | |||||
{FB} 7A | ★ Acne Arête | ||||
{FB} 7A | Spotter's Slop | ||||
Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Far Skyline Art Nouveau Boulders | |||||
{FB} 7A | ★★ Sidepull Wall | ||||
Staffordshire The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering The Five Clouds Fourth Cloud | |||||
{FB} 7A | ★★ Trust | ||||
{FB} 7A | Thrust | ||||
Staffordshire Newstones Charlie's Overhang | |||||
FB:7A | ★★ S & M Left-hand Sit-start | ||||
Staffordshire Newstones Hazel Barn Buttress | |||||
FB:7A | Ripple Extension
Sit start at Crack and Arête traverse left around the corner keeping low into the start of the Ripple. Then finish up the Ripple. A technical heel hook and a lot of balance are required to join the start of the Ripple, for the short. | ||||
Staffordshire Newstones Scratch / Rhynose Buttress | |||||
E3 UKT:6b | ★★ The Puffter
Left of Puffed Up. Using the large obvious undercut and a couple hidden crimps from direct. Success or a potential back breaking landing awaits Please avoid using the obvious fragile bit of rock before the first rockover. Highball 7a+ and a potential modern classic. | 8m | |||
E4 UKT:6b | Puffed Up
Powerful moves up the sidewall lead to a harrowing exit. | 8m | |||
Staffordshire Newstones Sly Buttress | |||||
FB:7A | Sly Stallone Eliminate
Dyno Sly Stallone without using foot ramp. | ||||
Staffordshire Churnet Valley Farley Woods Discreet Block | |||||
{FB} 7A | Machine Head |