England Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. England 32,832 routes in Region

2 1 3 5 4

1 Peak District 2 Northern England 3 Midlands 4 South-West England 5 South East England

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Seasonality

Rock climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 52.774502, -1.840212

1.1. Peak District 11,429 routes in Region

2 3 1

1 Peak District Limestone 2 Western Gritstone 3 Eastern Gritstone

Summary:

Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 53.356138, -1.797008

1.1.1. Peak District Limestone 1,589 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 53.204589, -1.736059

summary

One of the best climbing locations in the UK with plenty of sport and traditional climbing areas.

description

Located in the Peak District, consisting of natural limestone cliffs and huge abandoned quarries. Some famous (Eye of the Tiger) hard trad test pieces and one of the world's first 9a (Hubble) routes are located here.

access issues

For up-to-date access information please visit the BMS RAD database. https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/

approach

Train - Matlock, Chesterfield, and Sheffield are all well serviced. Car - Same cities are all well serviced via the M1 motorway, the local roads up to the crags are all very reasonable and scenic.

where to stay

Plenty of B&B and hotels in the area. Youth hostel (YHA) is available in Matlock, Eyam, Ilam and Ravenstor.

ethic

Being a national park, consult the local guide books and the regional access database for any closures. As usual, Nesting birds, and protected flora should be preserved. Some crags are on Private land, and therefore act reasonably if asked to leave.

history

Hugely important crag.Seminal ascents by Moon, Moffat, Mcclure etc.A mecca for hard sport and bouldering.

1.1.2. Western Gritstone 4,487 routes in Region

Summary:

Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 53.472191, -1.898135

1.1.3. Eastern Gritstone 5,353 routes in Region

Summary:

Trad climbing, Bouldering and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 53.255838, -1.616095

1.2. Northern England 15,149 routes in Region

Summary:

Rock climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 54.552061, -1.994209

description

Except https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/united-kingdom/england/peak-district.

1.2.1. Yorkshire 7,886 routes in Region

Summary:

Rock climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 53.947290, -1.384580

description

Except https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/united-kingdom/england/peak-district.

1.2.2. Cumbria 5,804 routes in Region

Summary:

Mostly Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 54.574702, -2.944445

1.2.3. Lancashire 99 routes in Region

Summary:

Trad climbing, Rock climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.852654, -2.630965

1.2.4. Greater Manchester 140 routes in Region

Summary:

Bouldering, Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 53.534158, -2.304071

description

The area around Manchester, roughly a half an hour drive.

1.2.5. Tyne and Wear and Durham 449 routes in Region

Summary:

Mostly Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 54.753940, -1.731824

1.2.6. Northumberland 757 routes in Region

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 55.251243, -2.021037

1.2.7. Cheshire 14 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 53.332915, -2.750623

summary

Cheshire's very own bouldering wall

description

Great venue with lots of potential

access issues

None

approach

5 minute walk in

where to stay

Liverpool

ethic

No chipping

history

N/A

1.3. Midlands 1,765 routes in Region

8 25 26 27 12 9 17 7 13 20 14 15 18 16 21 1 3 23 24 4 22 5 19 6 2 11 10

1 Shropshire 2 Markfield Quarry 3 Hangingstone Quarry 4 Beacon Hill 5 Forest Rock 6 The Brand 7 Charnwood Quarry 8 Staffordshire 9 Cademan Wood and Broad Hill 10 Granitethorpe Quarry 11 Croft Crags 12 Grace Dieu Boulder 13 High Sharpley 14 Ratchet Hill 15 Whitwick Quarry 16 High Tor 17 Blackbrook Reservoir 18 Oaks Pinnacle 19 Bardon Hill 20 The Outwoods 21 Hangstone Rocks 22 Windmill Hill 23 Craig Buddon 24 Mountsorrel Crags 25 Anchor Church Caves 26 Ticknall Lime Yards 27 Carver's Rocks

Summary:

Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 52.519070, -0.917745

summary

Great for when you can't access anywhere else

description

All the random crags between London and the Peak District (https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/united-kingdom/england/peak-district)

history

See http://www.leicesterclimbs.f9.co.uk/Intro.htm#ACK for a detailed area history

1.3.1. Shropshire 78 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 52.731266, -2.946945

1.3.2. Markfield Quarry 19 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 52.688089, -1.282952

summary

Markfield Quarry

description

Quarried granite hill with a selection of slabby and steeper routes

access issues

Signage says no climbing, but there is no official ban. Be discrete

approach

Park at the car park directory outside and walk 5 minutes right (shorter) or left around the fence until you see rocks.

There have been multiple complaints of car break-ins on UKClimbing.

1.3.3. Hangingstone Quarry 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 52.730739, -1.223769

summary

Slate Quarry

1.3.4. Beacon Hill 54 routes in Crag

Summary:

Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 52.728980, -1.248233

1.3.5. Forest Rock 97 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 52.722215, -1.214358

1.3.6. The Brand 33 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 52.713939, -1.206565

description

The Brand is the name of the house owned by the Martin family. Over the years a very good relationship with the family has been built up with the local climbing community. This has resulted in there being no problem with people climbing providing they have contacted the family or their land agent, and been given permission.

access issues

Access is strictly limited to parties having permission to climb from the family. You should telephone first and follow the instructions given.

You may or may not be granted permission to climb; this is at the family’s discretion.

You will be asked to park at the house.

Climbers are asked not to destroy the excellent relationship that exists with the family by climbing without permission and leaving litter.

It is useless to trespass because the crag is plainly visible from the house.

The garden is also a Site of Special Scientific Interest because of the rare lichen and fern species situated here.

1.3.7. Charnwood Quarry 0 routes in Crag

1.3.8. Staffordshire 740 routes in Crag

Summary:

Bouldering, Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 53.075983, -1.923713

description

Staffordshire is a county south west of the Peak District National Park. There are both gritstone and limestone crags with bouldering, and both trad and sport routes on good quality rock.

1.3.9. Cademan Wood and Broad Hill 356 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 52.750908, -1.350864

summary

Tors and boulders of volcanic breccia scattered around Cademan Wood and Broad Hill.

access issues

Cademan Woods has become increasingly popular with climbers, however, this increased traffic is presenting a threat to continued access. Please keep an eye on the access advice on UKC.com which will be more up to date than this guide. Many of the issues that come with increased traffic can be addressed if we park sensibly and pick up any litter found. Climbers need to show that they are having a positive impact on the local environment and community.

1.3.10. Granitethorpe Quarry 12 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 52.539010, -1.271738

1.3.11. Croft Crags 12 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 52.558257, -1.248605

1.3.12. Grace Dieu Boulder 18 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 52.754460, -1.360964

1.3.13. High Sharpley 30 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 52.747594, -1.334587

1.3.14. Ratchet Hill 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 52.742590, -1.340376

1.3.15. Whitwick Quarry 7 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 52.739638, -1.341323

1.3.16. High Tor 38 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 52.738452, -1.328113

1.3.17. Blackbrook Reservoir 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 52.749875, -1.313548

1.3.18. Oaks Pinnacle 32 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 52.739211, -1.309218

1.3.19. Bardon Hill 46 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 52.713921, -1.319264

1.3.20. The Outwoods 21 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 52.744880, -1.240202

1.3.21. Hangstone Rocks 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 52.732680, -1.227333

1.3.22. Windmill Hill 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 52.724102, -1.222296

1.3.23. Craig Buddon 24 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 52.729469, -1.175780

1.3.24. Mountsorrel Crags 47 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 52.729016, -1.139563

1.3.25. Anchor Church Caves 11 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 52.841629, -1.495674

1.3.26. Ticknall Lime Yards 11 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 52.810425, -1.466926

1.3.27. Carver's Rocks 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 52.800492, -1.510057

1.4. South-West England 3,900 routes in Region

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 50.892858, -3.855621

1.4.1. Somerset 1,343 routes in Region

Summary:

Trad climbing, Rock climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.383509, -2.599851

1.4.2. North Devon 56 routes in Region

Summary:

Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 51.079374, -4.137251

1.4.3. Dartmoor 202 routes in Region

Summary:

Trad climbing, Bouldering and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 50.567508, -3.930675

1.4.4. South Devon 149 routes in Region

Summary:

Rock climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 50.425770, -3.747443

1.4.5. Cornwall 164 routes in Region

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.437921, -4.974958

1.4.6. Lundy Heritage Coast 92 routes in Region

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.178289, -4.667579

1.4.7. Gloucestershire 524 routes in Region

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.759581, -2.478527

1.4.8. Dorset 1,369 routes in Region

Summary:

Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 50.576102, -2.197954

1.4.9. M5 motorway bridge 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.688289, -3.482886

1.5. South East England 589 routes in Region

Summary:

Mostly Top roping

Lat / Long: 51.225051, -0.068323

1.5.1. Upnor, Rochester 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 51.296914, 0.432136

1.5.2. Kent 578 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Top roping

Lat / Long: 51.127440, 0.263670

1.5.3. Greater London 10 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 51.506426, -0.029833

1.5.4. Saltdean 0 routes in Crag

summary

Careful climbing on chalk cliffs with axes and crampons

1.5.5. Boulder Brighton 0 routes in Gym

description

http://www.boulderbrighton.com

1.5.6. Craggy Island 0 routes in Gym

description

http://www.craggy-island.com

1.5.7. Eastbourne, DOP 136 suite, BN21 2UD 0 routes in Boulder

description

Wall of the section 136 suite which has the door and window on it. Route start at either end of wall and finishes at the other side. Left to right is far easier than right to left.

approach

Entry with police via a section 136

history

Previously used to cage ill people.