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Peak District Limestone Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.

Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

László Csengeri Simon Pateman Philip Dayal Rob Spiller john cook Campbell Gome Jim Croft

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Peak District Limestone 1,589 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
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Seasonality

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 53.204589, -1.736059

summary

One of the best climbing locations in the UK with plenty of sport and traditional climbing areas.

description

Located in the Peak District, consisting of natural limestone cliffs and huge abandoned quarries. Some famous (Eye of the Tiger) hard trad test pieces and one of the world's first 9a (Hubble) routes are located here.

access issues

For up-to-date access information please visit the BMS RAD database. https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/

approach

Train - Matlock, Chesterfield, and Sheffield are all well serviced. Car - Same cities are all well serviced via the M1 motorway, the local roads up to the crags are all very reasonable and scenic.

where to stay

Plenty of B&B and hotels in the area. Youth hostel (YHA) is available in Matlock, Eyam, Ilam and Ravenstor.

ethic

Being a national park, consult the local guide books and the regional access database for any closures. As usual, Nesting birds, and protected flora should be preserved. Some crags are on Private land, and therefore act reasonably if asked to leave.

history

Hugely important crag.Seminal ascents by Moon, Moffat, Mcclure etc.A mecca for hard sport and bouldering.

1.1. Matlock Bath 18 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.109973, -1.557350

1.1.1. Willersley Castle Rocks 18 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 53.109972, -1.557320

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 God E1 5b Trad
2 Surplomb Trad
3 Gripper E1 6a Trad
4 Grasper HVS 5b Trad
5 Lime Street Direct E1 5c Trad
6 Lone Tree Groove HVS 5a Trad
7 Sycamore Flake Direct HVS 5b Trad
8 Sparkle in the Rain E5 6a Trad
9 Guts Ache Groove VS 4c Trad
10 Guillotine VS 4c Trad
11 Garrotter VS 4c Trad
12 Halo Left-hand HVS 5b Trad
13 Bagatelle HVS 5a Trad
14 Pothole Wall VS 5a Trad
15 Gangue Grooves HVS 5b Trad
16 PTO

Burly through the roof!

E2 5c Trad
17 Boomerang HVS 5b Trad
18 Cucumber Groove VS 4b Trad

1.2. Lorry Park 32 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

summary

Wall climbing on an east facing crag of hard, compact limestone.

approach

Park in one of Matlock Bath's pay and display car parks. Roadside parking is limited to one hour.

From the closest pay and display parking between Matlock and Matlock Bath, walk back towards Matlock (north on A6). Just before the railway bridge there is a vehicle entrance on the left. Walk up this road, behind the building and continue into and through the lorry park (about 200m).

The crag is on the right. Find the well used path at the end of a wire fence that takes you into the trees and to the wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Give the Man a Rest {FR} 7a+ Sport
2 Muesli Berries {FR} 6c Sport
3 Wild Strawberries {FR} 6c+ Sport
4 On the Road

corner

{FR} 6c Sport
5 Ground Zero {FR} 7c+ Sport
6 Squealer Zero

start in Squealer, avoiding the hard start of Ground Zero, finish up Ground Zero

{FR} 7c+ Sport
7 On the Road to Ground Zero

start in On the Road, avoiding the hard start of Ground Zero, finish up Ground Zero

{FR} 7b Sport
8 The Squealer {FR} 7c Sport
9 The Squealer Direct Finish {FR} 7c+ Sport
10 The Squealer Super Direct

straight up from brown jug

{FR} 7c+ Sport
11 Supergrass

start in Supercrack, go left at 4th bolt and finish up The Squealer

{FR} 7b+ Sport
12 Supercrack

finger crack

{FR} 7a Sport
13 Dark Matter

direct start of Dark Energy

{FR} 8a+ Sport
14 Dark Energy

start in Edge of Darkness, use bolts left of crack, go left at 3rd bolt

{FR} 8a Sport
15 Edge of Darkness

crack

{FR} 6b+ Sport
16 Big Spider, Small Bath

crack

{FR} 7b+ Sport
17 Good Time Emporium {FR} 7b Sport
18 Shore Leave

groove

{FR} 7a/a+ Sport
19 Shattered Air

flake

{FR} 6b Sport
20 Deceptive

twin cracks

{FR} 7b Sport
21 Confidence Trick {FR} 8a Sport
22 Sleight of Hand {FR} 7c Sport
23 Thunder Road

crack

{FR} 6c+ Sport
24 Sons of Anarchy

direct of Hell's Angel

{FR} 7c+ Sport
25 Hell's Angel

flake, pockets

{FR} 7b Sport
26 Sample the Mantle

likely harder due to broken hold by last bolt

{FR} 7b Sport
27 Baron Samedi

expo - risk of hitting ledge

{FR} 7b+ Sport
28 Desolation Angels {FR} 7a Sport
29 Roguerunner

climb Desolation Angels to horizontal break. Head to the ring bolts on The Squealer's ledge. Pitch 2 finishes at the belay of Shattered Air.

{FR} 7a+ - c Sport 2
30 Princess of the Streets

start in Desolation Angels and head right onto the wall

{FR} 7a Sport
31 Game On {FR} 7a/a+ Sport
32 Go Your Own Way

"continuous version of Game On"

{FR} 7b Sport

1.3. Stoney Middleton 184 routes in Crag

Summary:
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 53.271315, -1.668823

summary

Great location for sport and bouldering.Minus 10 wall and Tom's cave hold some very hard problems

description

Easy access and very sheltered

access issues

No issues

approach

Park opposite the garage,in the large layby

where to stay

Local b and b

ethic

No chipping, bbq's,litter.

history

Lots

1.3.1. Garage Buttress 18 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Rock climbing and Sport climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Four Minute Tiler E5 6b Unknown
2 La Belle et la Bete E5 6b Unknown
3 Colonel Bogey E4 6a Unknown
4 Helicon E3 5c Unknown
5 Rippemoff E1 5c Unknown
6 Chewemoff E4 6a Unknown
7 Ozone Bozo {FR} 7c Unknown
8 Little Plum E6 6c Unknown
9 Virgin on the Loose E6 6b Unknown
10 Flycathcer E5 5a Unknown
11 Evasor VS 4c Unknown 2
12 Aquiline HVS 5b Unknown 2
13 Pendulum HVS 5a Unknown
14 Dreamcatcher

A long route packed with interest: a technical lower wall and engrossing final bulge.

{FR} 6b+ Sport 30m
15 Creamsnatcher

The right-hand line gives pleasant sustained interest.

{FR} 6b Sport 12m
16 Onwards and Upwards

Straight up from the start of 4000.

{FR} 6a Sport 12m
17 Nowt about Change

Easy start and tricky finale on layaways.

{FR} 6a+ Sport 20m
18 End, Stop, Finale

Rightwards through overlap and ledges to blunt rib.

{FR} 6b Sport 20m

1.3.2. Windy Buttress 22 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Rock climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Inquisitor E1 5c Unknown
2 Dies Irae E2 5c Unknown
3 Stuff the Turkey E4 6b Unknown
4 Circe E5 6a Unknown
5 Swine Vesicular E6 6b Unknown
6 Gaspera E5 6b Unknown
7 Kink E5 6b Unknown
8 Kellogg E5 6b Unknown
9 Nice in Nice E5 6b Unknown
10 Kingdom Come E5 6b Unknown
11 Special K E5 6a Unknown
12 The Flakes Direct E2 5c Unknown
13 Armageddon E2 5c Unknown
14 Windhover E2 5c Unknown 38m
15 Scoop Wall E2 5c Unknown
16 Our Father E4 6b Unknown
17 Menopause E 6b Unknown
18 Hysterectomy E5 6c Unknown
19 Memnon E2 5c Unknown
20 Aurora VS 4c Unknown 25m
21 Aurora Arete HVS 5a Unknown
22 Alcasan E2 5c Unknown

1.3.3. Bitterfingers Bay 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Glory Road VS 4b Trad 25m
2 Sin VS 4c Trad
3 Lucy Simmons E2 5b Trad
4 Anything Corner VS 4b Trad 18m
5 Augean VS 4c Trad 21m
6 Fe Fi Fo Fum HVS 5a Trad 20m
7 Okra E4 6a Trad
8 Bitterfingers E4 6a Trad
9 Dead Banana Crack E1 5c Trad
10 Froth VS 4c Trad
11 Wallop HS 4b Trad 24m
12 The Great Leveller E6 6b Trad
13 Mingtled/Mottled Wall E4 5c Trad

1.3.4. Wee Doris Bay 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Thrutch HVS 5a Trad 20m
2 Boat Pushers Wall E4 5c Trad
3 Big Boris E5 6a Trad
4 Wee Doris E4 5c Trad
5 Medusa E1 5b Trad
6 Gesemini Direct E3 6a Trad
7 Pickpocket E4 6a Trad
8 Frisco Bay VS 4c Trad
9 Golden Gate HVS 5a Trad
10 Bingo Wall E2 5b Trad
11 Kelly's Eye E4 6a Trad
12 Mind Blind E5 6b Trad

1.3.5. Traffic Jam Area 15 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Rock climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Asparagus VS 4b Unknown 21m
2 Horizon VD Unknown 21m
3 Lost Horizon VD Unknown 24m
4 White Knight VD Unknown 30m
5 Gabriel and the Pearly Gates VS 4c Trad 2
6 Solitaire E1 5b Unknown
7 St. Peter E1 5c Unknown
8 St. Paul E3 5c Unknown
9 Parachute VS 4a Unknown
10 Au Gratin HS 4a Unknown 14m
11 Minus Ten HVS 5a Unknown
12 Jam Sandwich E5 6b Unknown
13 Traffic Jam E5 6b Unknown
14 Double Scotch E2 5b Unknown
15 Cointreau HVS 5a Unknown

1.3.6. Pearly Gates Area 19 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.278835, -1.670295

summary

A distinctive rocky tower with two cave entrances.

description

Classic traditional routes up the tower and within the caves. Showing its age and the popular routes are well polished.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pollyanna E1 5b Trad 12m
2 Horizon S 4a Trad 25m
3 Canine of Brime E2 5b Trad 25m
4 Juggernaut Trad 25m
5 Lost Horizon S 4a Trad 25m
6 Aux Bicyclettes VD Trad 25m
7 Fingal's Flue HS 3c Trad 30m
8 Fingal's Cave HVS 5a Trad 30m
9 The Groper Trad 32m
10 The White Knight VD Trad 30m
11 Ben E2 5c Trad 33m
12 Gabriel

An apparent classic.. But gear placement is marginal at the right traverse.

VS 4c Trad 18m
13 Pearly Gates

The top pitch up the tower.

VS 4c Trad 12m
14 Solitaire E1 5b Trad 18m
15 St. Peter E1 5c Trad 18m
16 St. Paul E3 5c Trad 18m
17 Parachute

Polished, but still gives a nice crack climbing experience.

VS 4b Trad 18m
18 Roman Candle VS 4c Trad 15m
19 Au Gratin HS 4a Trad 15m

1.3.7. Prayer Wheel Wall 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Omlette E3 6a Trad
2 Om E1 5b Trad 9m
3 This Shit Wall E2 5b Trad
4 Mani E1 5b Trad
5 Padme HVS 5a Trad 28m
6 Asparagus VS 4b Trad 20m
7 Cock-a-leekie Wall E2 5c Trad

1.3.8. Carls Wark 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.278856, -1.669710

description

A murky,damp and otherworldly hole to the left of the main track

approach

Off the main track.Take care getting down to the crag,it can be dangerously slippy.

descent notes

N/A

history

N/A

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Flake and Pillar

Set in the murky world of Carl's wark

E1 5b Mixed trad 8m, 4
2 Squeek E5 6a Unknown
3 Au Revoir Monodoigt V7 Boulder
4 Bubbles Wall E4 6b Unknown
5 Black Kabul E5 6b Unknown
6 Carls Wark Crack E2 5c Unknown
7 Scarab E6 6b Unknown
8 All Systems Go E6 6c Unknown
9 Green Crack VS 4c Unknown
10 Soapsuds E3 6a Unknown

1.3.9. Triglyph/Mortuary Steps Area 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Rock climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 How the Hell VS 4c Unknown
2 Hell Hath No Fury E2 5b Unknown
3 What the Hell VS 4b Unknown
4 Morning Crack S Unknown
5 Little Capucin HVS 5a Unknown
6 Cardiac Arrest E4 6a Unknown
7 Hart Attack E5 Unknown
8 Mortuary Steps HVS 5b Unknown
9 The Morgue E3 5c Unknown
10 Speed Kills E4 6a Unknown

1.3.10. Electric Quarry Area 19 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Rock climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Slurper E1 5c Unknown
2 Gollyberry E2 5c Unknown
3 Psychopath E1 5b Unknown
4 Daedalus E4 6a Unknown
5 Vicky E1 5b Unknown
6 Icarus E1 5b Unknown
7 John Peel E2 5b Unknown
8 Emotional Rescue E5 6a Unknown
9 Golden Boy E5 6a Unknown
10 Damocles E3 5b Unknown
11 One 'ard Move E6 6b Unknown
12 Brown Corner HVS 5a Unknown
13 Millionaire Touch E4 6b Unknown
14 Oliver E4 6a Unknown
15 Jasper E3 6a Unknown
16 The Heat E5 6a Unknown
17 Cabbage Crack E4 6a Unknown
18 Helmut Schmitt

FA: Jerry Moffatt, 1981

E6 6b Unknown
19 Roraima HVS 5b Unknown

1.3.11. Minus Ten (bouldering) 23 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 53.279549, -1.670842

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Quents Dyno {US} V8 Boulder
2 The JABP {US} V9 Boulder
3 7b+ {US} V8 Boulder
4 7a+ {US} V7 Boulder
5 Easy Dyno {US} V4 Boulder
6 One Arm Bandit {US} V8 Boulder
7 Kirton Dyno {US} V7 Boulder
8 Seans Problem {US} V8 Boulder
9 Zippy's Sidepull {US} V8 Boulder
10 Lucian's Undercut {US} V6 Boulder
11 Lucian's Undercut Variant {US} V5 Boulder
12 6c+ {US} V5 Boulder
13 Zippy's Problem {US} V8 Boulder
14 Problem 13 {US} V9 Boulder
15 Problem 14 {US} V9 Boulder
16 Pinch 2 {US} V12 Boulder
17 Nasty Traverse {US} V10 Boulder
18 The Double Double {US} V4 Boulder
19 The Young American {US} V7 Boulder
20 Megatron {US} V7 Boulder
21 Upper Break {US} V1 Boulder
22 Middle Break {US} V3 Boulder
23 The Wall Traverse {US} V5 Boulder

1.3.12. Sit Down Buttress 16 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.278614, -1.682274

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sitting Bull {FR} 6a+ Sport
2 Sit On It {FR} 5+ Sport
3 Sit Down On It {FR} 6a Sport
4 Sit Start It Ain't {FR} 6a Sport
5 Sit Up and Beg {FR} 6b Sport
6 Ranking Joe VS 4c Trad
7 Sit Down Wall {FR} 6a+ Sport
8 Stand Out Arete {FR} 6b Sport
9 Darlton Diagonal {FR} 6a+ Sport
10 Christmas Crackers {FR} 6c+ Sport
11 Where's Wall E {FR} 6c Sport
12 Berserker Joe {FR} 5 Sport
13 Footprints in the Snow {FR} 6a+ Sport
14 Trouser Ripper {FR} 6b+ Sport
15 Drill Bit Taylor {FR} 6b Sport
16 Mas y Mas {FR} 6a Sport

1.4. Stoney West 32 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.280006, -1.679000

summary

A continuation of the main Stoney crag.

description

A crag with both sport and traditional climbing routes. In the Main area, trad and sport routes share lower-offs.

access issues

Not too far from Horse-Thief quarry on the same side of the road, climbing is allowed, with no access issues.

approach

Best to be reached by car. There are laybys on the LHS of the road as approaching from Stoney village. The crag is on the same side right-hand side as Horse-Thief and Horseshoe quarry, cross the road and follow the well-trodden path.

history

First ascents by Gary Gibson and Paul Mitchell.

1.4.1. Twang Buttress 0 routes in Area

summary

The left-most Buttress. More sheltered than the other areas.

1.4.2. Northerners Buttress 8 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.280081, -1.679478

summary

Good quality rock with a classic traditional style route in the middle.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Spiron VS 4c Trad 15m
2 Can't Climb Wont Climb

The bolted route starts on the slabby wall at the left, the crux is at the bulge.

7a Sport 15m
3 Northerners can't Climb E5 6b Trad 15m
4 Another Camden Day 6c+ Sport 15m
5 Southerners Can't Climb E3 5c Trad 15m
6 Whisper 6c+ Sport 15m
7 Joy or Depsair

Feels hard for its grade if started directly under the bulge. The view from the top is excellent.

6a+ Sport 15m
8 Elective Affinities

Seldom climbed and now very vegetated.

E2 5c Trad 15m

1.4.3. Main Area 24 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.279909, -1.678712

summary

The first section you will encounter when approached from the footpath.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Contemplation 6c+ Sport 8m
2 Apparition 5a Sport 8m
3 Superstition 6c+ Sport 8m
4 The Seclusion 7a Sport 8m
5 No Greenwich Meantime 6c+ Sport 10m
6 The Trill of the Chase 6b+ Sport 10m
7 In Conversation 6b Sport 10m
8 Liberation 6b+ Sport 10m
9 An illusion 6b Sport 10m
10 Rainsong E1 5b Trad 12m
11 Late at Night 6b+ Sport 13m
12 Root Cause Analysis 6b Trad 15m
13 Dust 6b Sport 15m
14 Suffrage 6a+ Sport 15m
15 Suffocation 6a Sport 15m
16 Little Sparrow

A nice line following a groove.

5c Sport 15m
17 Voices

The move past the last bolt is very hard for its grade.

6a+ Sport 15m
18 Fred

Long crack line with a lower off on the right.

HVS 5a Trad 15m
19 Eddie Cochrane 6b+ Sport 15m
20 Setting of the Sun

Although a bit crumbling at the mid section, it gives excellent climbing all the way up the belay.

6b Sport 15m
21 Satisfaction 6c Sport 15m
22 Don't talk to Strangers 6c Sport 15m
23 Procession

The start is very hard for the grade. Pre-clip the first one or two bolt if you can.

6b+ Sport 15m
24 Perilscope 6c+ Sport 15m

1.5. Horse Thief Quarry 20 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.279260, -1.684845

summary

A small quarry with 20 routes ranging from 4c to 7a. It is sunny until late afternoon and the rock dries quickly.

description

Not as big as its neighbors but it's a nice place to tick a lot of routes in the 5-6 grade.

access issues

No issues.

approach

Driving from Stoney village, just before the main car park at Horseshoe quarry there is a small layby, leave your car there and cross the road through the woods where you will find the quarry. (less than 2 minutes of walk).

Beware of crossing the road, the road is busy and the layby is just at the bend of the road. It's better and safer to walk up a little bit to the straight bit of the road, then cross to the other side.

where to stay

Plenty of B&B in the nearby villages.

history

Bolted, and first ascents by Gary Gibson. Please support his work at: https://www.sportclimbs.uk/

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Thief on a Hot Tin Roof 5c Sport 12m
2 Thiefdomme

Shares a lower off with "My Thiefdome Come"

FA: Gary Gibson

5a Sport 10m
3 My Thiefdome Come

FA: Gary Gibson

6a+ Sport 10m
4 Honorary Thiefdome 4c Sport 12m
5 Thief Groove 6a Sport 10m
6 Brexit? Thiefdome! 6a+ Sport 10m
7 Complete Thiefdome 5c Sport
8 Dome of the Thief 6b Sport 16m
9 Under the Thiefdome 5c Sport 16m
10 Thieves Amongst Us 5b Sport 16m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 Rustle Up 6a Sport 16m
12 The Thief of Baghdad 6b+ Sport 16m
13 The Thief of Mad Dad 6b+ Sport 16m
14 The Rustler 6b Sport 16m
15 Thieving Magpies 6a Sport 16m
16 Rustler Brand 6b Sport 16m
17 Amazing Thief 6a+ Sport 16m
18 Stop Thief 6a Sport 16m
19 Horse Nails 7a Sport 8m
20 Nailed 6b+ Sport 8m

1.6. Horseshoe Quarry 163 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.281407, -1.688430

1.6.1. The Bay 0 routes in Cliff

1.6.2. Gouranga Bay 0 routes in Cliff

1.6.3. Heart Buttress 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.281837, -1.689569

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Nine Eleven 6a Sport
2 Seven Eleven {FR} 6b Sport
3 Tors Colon {FR} 6c+ Sport 10m
4 Vent Your Spleen {FR} 7b Sport
5 Heart to Heart E4 6a Trad 8m
6 Sliver {FR} 6c+ Sport
7 Stomach Pump {FR} 7a+ Sport
8 Skin Flint {FR} 6b+ Sport
9 The Blood Bank {FR} 6b Sport
10 Sharing Best Practice {FR} 6a+ Sport

1.6.4. Chocolate Blancmange Wall 15 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.282464, -1.689186

description

Popular easy slabs and some even more popular easy multi-pitch routes on this section. It is cleaned up nicely, and it is a very popular section of the quarry. Fixed belay points are fitted for some routes (slab cake onwards).

approach

As you walk into the quarry this section is right at the end of the lower tier.

descent notes

All routes are equipped with decent lower-offs.

history

First ascents by Gary Gibson, Michael Hunt, and Jane Livingstone.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sharing Best Practice {FR} 6a+ Sport 15m
2 Barry Rubble {FR} 5+ Sport 35m
3 Chauvi's Slab {FR} 5+ Sport 35m
4 Still Nacht {FR} 5+ Sport 35m
5 Neanderthal

The crux is after the fixed belay point, with a hidden jug, and can feel quite exposed.. Nowadays is very popular and it is usually done as a multi-pitch route.

{FR} 5 Sport 35m, 2
6 Trog {FR} 5 Sport 35m, 2
7 Men at Work {FR} 5 Sport 32m
8 The Quarrymen {FR} 6a Sport 32m
9 Excavator {FR} 5+ Sport 30m
10 Slab Cake {FR} 4 Sport 25m
11 Spare Rib {FR} 5 Sport 25m
12 The Cake Walk {FR} 4 Sport 20m
13 Christmas Pud {FR} 4+ Sport 20m
14 Sago Slab {FR} 4 Sport 18m
15 Dream Topping {FR} 4+ Sport 16m

1.6.5. Sunday Sport Wall 53 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.282085, -1.687999

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sunday Sport {FR} 6b Sport 18m
2 Austin Powers {FR} 6b Sport 18m
3 The Big Fat Texan on the Corner

The centre of the wall, left of the big corner. Originally it was climbed direct but now holds on the right are used. If climbed from start of Austin Powers, offered a nice 6b variation.

{FR} 6a+ Sport 20m
4 He Seems so Sumo

The crack on the right starting from a block is sustained, though there is a good mid height rest. Recently extended.

{FR} 6a+ Sport 20m, 8
5 Olive Oil {FR} 6a Sport 20m
6 Removal Man

The big corner. Bolts are spaced, some gear might help. You can clip a bolt on Olive Oil to the left if the run out feels a little too much. Its trad with bolts.

{FR} 4+ Sport 18m, 3
7 Some Place

The steep crack right of the big corner, to a neat finish above the roof.

{FR} 6b Sport 18m
8 Sag Ponir

A short crack just left of the main arete - a one move wonder on good holds.........mostly

{FR} 5c+ Sport 14m
9 Out of Africa {FR} 6b+ Sport 14m
10 Madagascar {FR} 6b Sport 14m
11 Bird Island {FR} 6a Sport 31m, 2
12 Seychelles {FR} 6b Sport 16m
13 Rainbow Warrior {FR} 6c Sport
14 Weakend Warrior {FR} 6b Sport 16m
15 Sam in your Eye {FR} 6a+ Sport 14m
16 During the War {FR} 6a+ Sport 16m
17 Before the War {FR} 5 Sport 18m
18 Sahara {FR} 6c Sport 18m
19 Union Jack {FR} 5 Sport
20 African't {FR} 6b+ Sport 18m
21 Desperate Dan {FR} 6b Sport 18m
22 Fine and Dandy {FR} 6b Sport 18m
23 African {FR} 6a+ Sport 18m
24 Bloodguard {FR} 6c+ Sport 18m
25 Grab your Mandrakes {FR} 6b Sport 18m
26 Tirfin USA {FR} 6a+ Sport 18m
27 Tirf's High {FR} 6a+ Sport 18m
28 Race to the Freuds {FR} 6b+ Sport 18m
29 Peckling Fever {FR} 5+ Sport 18m
30 Senter Home {FR} 6a+ Sport 18m
31 Tirfer Off {FR} 6a+ Sport 18m
32 Maillon Sunday {FR} 6b Sport 18m
33 Bootiful Bernard Matthews {FR} 6b Sport 18m
34 Foul's Bane {FR} 6a Sport 18m
35 Drool Rock Worm {FR} 6b Sport 18m
36 Stone Throat {FR} 6b Sport 18m
37 Slay the Gray {FR} 6b Sport 18m
38 Mr. Cellulite's Arete {FR} 6a+ Sport 14m
39 Bandolier {FR} 6a Sport 18m
40 Underslung {FR} 6b+ Sport 20m
41 The little thin Mexican across the Border {FR} 6b Sport 20m
42 Desperate Measures {FR} 6b+ Sport 20m
43 The Mexican takes Lexicon {FR} 6a+ Sport
44 Exceeding the Speed Limit {FR} 6b Sport 20m
45 Mind your head {FR} 6b+ Sport 20m
46 Desperate Housewives {FR} 6a Sport 14m
47 Collared {FR} 6a Sport 16m
48 Spare Rib {FR} 6b Sport 16m
49 Eddie McStiff {FR} 6a+ Sport 20m
50 Pelvic Thrust {FR} 6b Sport 18m
51 The Hippy, Hippy Shakes {FR} 6a+ Sport 20m
52 Due Care and Attention {FR} 6a+ Sport 18m
53 Any Old Iron {FR} 6a Sport 18m

1.6.6. Main Wall 27 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.281701, -1.687769

description

Huge quarry feels remote and alien,but is less than 10 minutes from the road

approach

Limited parking in layby on main road

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pale Rider {FR} 6a Sport 20m
2 Rain Dance {FR} 6b+ Sport 20m
3 Physical Fizz {FR} 6c Sport
4 The Colostomy Finish {FR} 7a Sport
5 School's Out {FR} 6b Sport 20m
6 Rotund Rooley {FR} 6b Sport 20m
7 Wave of Mutilation {FR} 7a Sport 20m
8 First Days of Winter HVS 5b Trad 20m
9 Wall of Jericho {FR} 6b Sport 20m
10 The Leading Line {FR} 6b+ Sport 20m
11 Say it With Flowers {FR} 6c Sport 20m
12 Legal Action {FR} 6c Sport 20m
13 Run For Your Wife {FR} 6c+ Sport 20m
14 Private Prosecution {FR} 6b+ Sport 20m
15 Litany Against Fear {FR} 6b+ Sport 20m
16 Megalithic Man {FR} 6b+ Sport 20m
17 Megalithic Man Direct {FR} 6c+ Sport 20m
18 Poisonality {FR} 7a Sport 20m
19 An Ancient Rythm {FR} 6c Sport 20m
20 Demolition Man {FR} 7a Sport 20m
21 Shot Yer Bolt {FR} 6b+ Sport 20m
22 Southern Man {FR} 7a+ Sport 20m
23 Nice Face, Shame about the Ledge {FR} 6b+ Sport 20m
24 Flat World {FR} 7a+ Sport 20m
25 Lost Monolith {FR} 6b+ Sport 20m
26 Screwy Driver E1 5b Trad 20m
27 Spring Awakening HVS 5a Trad 20m

1.6.7. Android Sector 22 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.281377, -1.687350

description

Both sides of this section are a bit unstable. Beware of loose rock when climbing.

descent notes

All routes, including the trads are equipped with good quality lower offs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fragmented {FR} 6c Sport 20m
2 Finishing Off {FR} 6b+ Sport 20m
3 Spectophotometry E2 5c Trad 20m
4 50 Bolts to the Gallon 6a Sport 20m
5 Like Ice Like Fire

Look for a handy borehole around the midsection. Around the third bolt there is a large loose flake on the left, so climb on the right to avoid this.

6a Sport 20m
6 Galening Crack

Very nice trad pitch. Bring some medium-sized nuts and either top out or use the lower off.

HVS 5a Trad 20m
7 Compromise

Shares lower-off with the adjacent 6a+ route. Protection is somewhat hard to find.

E2 5b Sport 16m
8 Promises 6a+ Sport 16m
9 The Rottin' Word 6c Sport 20m
10 Decaydence 6c Sport 20m
11 A Right Earful

Hard finish and tricky corner leading to easy rest

{FR} 6a+ Sport 15m
12 Clean Your Mouth Out {FR} 6c+ Unknown 20m
13 The Dust Bunnies {FR} 7a Sport 20m
14 Dalken Shield 6b Sport 20m
15 Hardcore! You know the Score {FR} 6b Sport 18m
16 The Directors Cut {FR} 6b Sport 18m
17 Blade Runner 6a+ Sport 20m
18 Bruce's Bonus 6b Sport 20m
19 Androids Direct E1 5b Sport 20m
20 Do Androids Dream Of Electric Sheep E1 5b Sport 20m
21 Rage 6b Sport 20m
22 The Running Man 6b Sport 20m

1.6.8. Toilet sector 29 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.281083, -1.686914

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Long Walk {FR} 6c Sport 16m
2 The Dark Tower {FR} 6b+ Sport 16m
3 The Drawing of the Tree {FR} 6b+ Sport 16m
4 Willie the Kid {FR} 6a+ Sport 16m
5 Calamity Jane {FR} 6b+ Sport 16m
6 Jeff Garrett {FR} 6a+ Sport 16m
7 The Dogs {FR} 6b Sport 16m
8 Derailed {FR} 6a+ Sport 15m
9 Passage of Time {FR} 6b Sport 15m
10 The Sewer {FR} 6a+ Sport 16m
11 Latrine {FR} 5 Sport 16m
12 Armitage {FR} 6a Sport 16m
13 Shanks {FR} 6a Sport 16m
14 Potty {FR} 6a Sport 16m
15 Psycho Ceramic {FR} 6a+ Sport 16m
16 The Bog {FR} 6a Sport 16m
17 Twyfords {FR} 6a Sport 16m
18 The Small Room {FR} 6a+ Sport 16m
19 Thomas Crapper {FR} 6a Sport 16m
20 Two Loos {FR} 4+ Sport 16m
21 Montezuma's Revenge {FR} 6b Sport 16m
22 Latec {FR} 5 Sport 20m
23 Toilet Graffiti 5+ Sport 14m
24 Toilet Humour 5 Sport 14m
25 De Throne 5 Sport 14m
26 On Uranus {FR} 6a Sport 14m
27 Eau de Toilette {FR} 6a Sport 12m
28 Andrex {FR} 6b Sport 12m
29 Easy Come, Easy Go

Belaying safely will be more difficult than climbing the route.

{FR} 3 Sport 10m

1.6.9. Upper Tier 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.281801, -1.688548

1.6.9.1. Top Quarry 7 routes in Area
Summary:

Lat / Long: 53.281764, -1.690734

summary

Good sector for begginers, short and easy routes

approach

Top level to the left

1.7. Staden 30 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 53.247707, -1.882895

1.7.1. A Game of Chess Area 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Rock climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Tout Comprendre HVS 4c Unknown 14m
2 A Game of Chess E5 6b Unknown 16m
3 Hammer into Anvil E2 5c Unknown 16m
4 Nice 'n' Sleazy E2 5b Unknown 14m
5 96 Smears E5 6c Unknown 12m
6 Rupert Bear Goes Hiking VS 4c Unknown 12m
7 Bimbo the Exploding Lorry Driver's Gulch Eliminate HS 4b Trad 12m

1.7.2. Bicycle Repair Man 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Rock climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Silent Manoeuvres E4 5c Unknown 18m
2 Telescopic Demand E3 6a Unknown 18m
3 Swan Song E2 5b Unknown 18m
4 Bicycle Repair Man E1 5b Unknown 20m
5 Charas E1 5b Unknown 20m
6 Mosaic Piece E4 5c Unknown 20m
7 Wipe Out E3 5b Unknown 20m
8 Paraplege E3 5c Unknown 20m
9 Amatarasu VS 4c Unknown 20m

1.7.3. Joint Effort Wall 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Rock climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Suscipiat VS 4c Unknown 24m
2 Sunai E1 5b Unknown 24m
3 The Nails HVS 5b Unknown 28m
4 Soft Times E1 5c Unknown 24m
5 Welcome to Hard Times E2 5c Unknown 28m
6 Joint Effort HVS 5b Unknown 28m
7 Badlands E3 6a Unknown 24m
8 Private Gripped E6 6b Unknown 26m
9 Captain Reliable E2 5c Unknown 28m
10 Extra Effort E2 5c Unknown 24m
11 Investal HVS 5a Unknown 26m
12 Clowning E2 5b Unknown 24m
13 Cathy's Clown E2 5c Unknown 24m
14 Liquid Courage E2 5c Unknown 28m

1.8. Ravensdale 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 53.259716, -1.740873

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Amain

A glorious struggle up the hanging crack just right of the cave mouth; big cams and hexes needed. Masochists will don t-shirt and tights but tweed breeches clad the sane or those with a sense of history.

FA: 1960

VS 4c Trad 21m
2 Impendant

The crack up the outside face of the flying buttress. One of the best jamming cracks off grit. Mandatory for southerners and others accustomed to such pleasures.

FA: 1960

VS 4c Trad 18m
3 Ash Crack

The central crack in the bay on the right of the through cave. Well Protected.

FA: 1960

HS 4c Trad 15m
4 Tria

The right hand corner of the bay.

FA: 1960

HS 4b Trad 18m
5 Conclusor HVS 5a Unknown 46m, 2
6 Medusa VS Unknown 46m
7 Via Vita HVS Unknown 49m
8 Mephistopheles HVS Unknown 45m

1.9. High Tor 15 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.127985, -1.558106

1.9.1. Left Wing 0 routes in Cliff

1.9.2. Main face left 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Highlight HVS 5a Trad
2 Skylight

Up the corner past several roofs. Can be broken into two pitches at the ledge with piton.

FA: Joe Brown

VS 4c Trad
3 Delicatessan

FA: Jack Street, Geoff Birtles & Ed Ward-Drummond, 1968

E2 5c Trad 59m, 3

1.9.3. Main face centre 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Robert Brown E3 Mixed trad 52m, 2
2 Darius

One of the great E3s of the country, 50m of consistent goodness!

E3 5c Trad
3 Debauchery

One of the top ten E1's in the country, it can be forgiven for the odd bit of polish here and there. the route crosses some remarkable ground with hidden jugs, ample protection and bags of exposure. Best to back up any old pitons you decide to clip.

FFA: Pete Livesey, 1967

E1 5b Trad 45m, 2
4 Lyme Cryme E3 5c Trad 46m, 2

1.9.4. Main face right 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Original Route

This is a stunning pitch on fantastic rock. Follow the obvious wandery groove with intermittent flakes and crack features. You can either go left at the bulge down low or direct and take E2. Truly one of the best in the Peak.

HVS 5a Trad 35m
2 Original Route Direct Start

Straight up the groove from the ledge. Sustained!

E1 5b Trad
3 Tales of Yankee Power E5 6a Trad 35m
4 Flakey Wall E4 6a Trad 35m
5 Reproduction E6 6b Trad 35m
6 Supersonic E5 6a Trad 35m
7 Bastille E6 6b Trad 37m
8 Decadence E4 6a Trad 70m, 3

1.10. Dovedale Valley 15 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.069805, -1.785862

1.10.1. Ilam Rock 9 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

description

Large, narrow pinnacle right on the river, leaning to one side.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Original Route HS 4a Trad
2 The Wong Edge E3 6a Trad
3 The Groove E2 5c Trad
4 The Gladiator E4 6a Trad
5 Steve's Route E6 6c Trad
6 The Final Round E9 6c Trad
7 Eye of the Tiger E7 6c Trad
8 The White Edge E3 6a Trad
9 Easter Island E1 5b Trad

1.10.2. Reynard's Arch 6 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport climbing

description

A natural arch, with some overhanging sport routes.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Lime Arch {FR} 6b+ Sport
2 Jonah's Boner {FR} 7c Sport
3 Arch Rival {FR} 7a Sport
4 Arch Enemies {FR} 7c+ Sport
5 Sworn Enemy {FR} 8a Sport
6 Things Ain't Like They Used to Be {FR} 7a+ Sport

1.11. Raven Tor 86 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.255649, -1.775439

summary

Lots of potential for new problems hidden in the undergrowth

description

A legendary peak limestone venue.Moffat,Moon,McClure at al

access issues

None.Roadside

approach

Seconds

where to stay

Lots of lovely villages

ethic

No chipping,swearing or nudity

history

Read all about it

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Boot Boys {FR} 8a+ Sport
2 Boot Boys Start {FB} 6C Boulder
3 Powerband {FB} 7C Boulder
4 Staminaband {FB} 8A Boulder
5 Strict Blueband {FB} 7C+ Boulder
6 Ben's Roof {FB} 7C+ Boulder
7 Keen Roof

The centre of the cave from back left.

FA: James Pearson, 2006

{FB} 8B Boulder
8 The Weedkiller Traverse {FB} 7B Boulder
9 Sardine

A classic polished Peak landmark which is still a tough route to onsight. There are a few ways of doing the lower crux and the upper wall is not to be underestimated either, with a tricky move or two moving right near the top.

FA: Ron Fawcett, 1981

{FR} 7b+ Sport 22m
10 Out of my Tree Start {FB} 7B Boulder
11 Rattle & Hump Start {FB} 7A+ Boulder
12 Saline Drip start

The sometimes wet start to the route.Far right on main wall

{FB} 7A Boulder 4m

1.11.1. Main 47 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Arabian Nights E4 6b Trad
2 Sheikh, Rattle 'n Roll {FR} 7b Sport
3 Koran Direct {FR} 7a+ Sport
4 Ayatolla {FR} 6c+ Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 Hubris E5 6a Trad
6 Barely Decent {FR} 7a+ Sport
7 Barely Decent (Right Start) {FR} 7b+ Sport
8 Balls Out {FR} 7c Sport
9 Indecent Exposure {FR} 7b+ Sport 35m
10 Indecent Exposure Direct {FR} 7c Sport
11 The Full Monty {FR} 7c+ Sport
12 Half Decent {FR} 7c Sport
13 Unzipped {FR} 8a Sport
14 Body Machine {FR} 7c Sport
15 Body Machine Direct {FR} 7c+ Sport
16 An In and Out of Body Experience {FR} 8a Sport
17 Bodybuilder {FR} 8a+ Sport
18 Anger Management {FR} 8a Sport
19 Cross 'n Angry {FR} 8a+ Sport
20 The Prow (Classic) {FR} 7c Sport
21 The Prow {FR} 8a Sport
22 The Crucifixion {FR} 8a Sport
23 Rage into The Crucifixion {FR} 8b+ Sport
24 Proud Whore {FR} 7c+ Sport
25 Brazen Strumpet {FR} 8a Sport
26 JehovahKill {FR} 8b+ Sport
27 Revelations

FFA: @jerrymoffat, 1984

{FR} 8b Sport
28 Rage {FR} 8b Sport
29 Hubble

Old school grading (8c+)... Hard.

FA: Ben Moon, 1990

{FR} 8c+/9a Sport 10m
30 The Whore of Babylon {FR} 8a Sport
31 Brandenburg Gate

FFA: William Bosi, 7 Nov 2021

9a+ Sport
32 Introducing the Hardline According to Terrance Trout {FR} 7b+ Sport
33 Make It Funky {FR} 8c Sport
34 Persian Dawn

Direct finish of Make it Funky.

8c+ Sport
35 Mega Whore {FR} 8c Sport
36 Mecca - The Mid-life Crisis

A fine, historic route from the 80s, which has some stopper moves and regularly repels redpoint attempts. Start in the cave and swing out to gain the wall. Reaching the hanging groove up and left is taxing, climbing it is only marginally easier. Finish by stretching left to the big flake and lower-off, or try the next route.

FA: Martin Atkinson, 1988

{FR} 8b+ Sport 12m
37 Mecca Extension

The full version is an incredible stamina test which packs an 8a+ on top of the already desperate 8b+. There is a rest at the Mecca flake and a breather higher up before the upper crux.

FA: Steve McClure, 1998

{FR} 8c Sport 25m
38 Hajj {FR} 8c Sport
39 Kaabah {FR} 8c+ Sport
40 Evolution

Moffatt's last significant route at the Tor was a major achievement in every respect, although it has now been over-shadowed by Mutation. Lower-off above the small flake which is reached after a crucial span left.

FA: Jerry Moffatt, 1995

{FR} 8c+ Sport 12m
41 Mutation

The most impressive of McClure's awesome additions to the crag and the current hardest in the Peak. Before the hard span near the top of Evolution gain a pinch after a hideous cross-over move. Continue up the wall above to the lower-off on Chimes. Finally saw its second ascent after 23 years on 31/10/2021 by Scottish wad Will Bosi who suggested it is at least 9a+ and possibly harder still.

FA: Steve McClure, 1998

{FR} 9a+ Sport 25m
42 Stevolution {FR} 9a Sport
43 Devolution {FR} 8b+ Sport
44 Devolution into Waddage {FR} 8c Sport
45 Roofolution {FR} 9a Sport
46 Chimes Short {FR} 8a Sport
47 Chimes of Freedom

One of the more popular hard routes at the Tor. There are several methods to pull around the bottom roof, all are hard and powerful. Some lower-off at the first break above the roof for an 8a tick, but the wall above is superb and considerably easier (7c), to finish at a lower-off in a scoop. The initial roof had a huge block on it which made the route much easier. Reclimbed in 1990 by Ben Moon after this block had fallen off.

FA: Andy Pollitt, 1986

{FR} 8a+ Sport 25m

1.11.2. Middle 27 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Jive Turkey {FR} 7b+ Sport
2 The Missing Link {FR} 8a Sport
3 The Exterminator {FR} 8a+ Sport
4 Rooster Crossing {FR} 8c Sport
5 Rooster Booster (Pitch 1) {FR} 7c+ Sport
6 Rooster Booster (Pitch 2) {FR} 7c Sport
7 Sardine {FR} 7b+ Sport
8 Tin Of {FR} 7b+ Sport 22m
9 Crumblefish {FR} 8a Sport
10 Bullet the Blue Sky {FR} 7b+ Sport
11 The Grand Tour {FR} 7c Sport
12 Another Toadside Attraction {FR} 7c Sport
13 In Brine {FR} 8a+ Sport
14 Obscene Gesture {FR} 7c Sport
15 Obscene Toilet {FR} 7c Sport
16 The Toilet {FR} 8a Sport
17 The Call of Nature

A profoundly hard crux surrounded by awesome climbing in the mid 7s. Very worthwhile.

{FR} 8a Sport 22m
18 Verbal Abuse {FR} 7c+ Sport
19 The Ring of Fire {FR} 7c+ Sport
20 Hot Flushes {FR} 8a Sport
21 The Flushings {FR} 7b+ Sport
22 A Little Extra {FR} 7a+ Sport
23 Little Boots {FR} 7c Sport
24 Cream Tea Special {FR} 7b+ Sport
25 Boot Boys {FR} 8a+ Sport
26 Out of My Boots {FR} 7c Sport
27 Out of My Tree {FR} 8a Sport

1.12. Water-cum-Jolly 29 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 53.252916, -1.747813

summary

Beautiful spot for sport or bouldering.Some very hard stuff,and lots of hidden gems to explore

description

Huge overhanging wall.Very sheltered,dry in any weather.Have a rummage around and you'll find plenty of little unknown gems and projects

access issues

No issues.Popular walking area.

approach

Park on lane,approach via Mill path.

where to stay

B and Bs

ethic

Bolted wall.

history

Vast! Check the guidebooks

1.12.1. Rubicon Wall 15 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport climbing, Rock climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 53.252860, -1.745319

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Caviar {AU} FR:8a+ Unknown
2 Dangerous Brothers {AU} FR:8a Unknown
3 Too Old to be Bold 7c Sport
4 Hot Fun Closing {AU} FR:8a Unknown
5 The Press {AU} V9 Boulder
6 The Bastard {AU} FR:8c Unknown
7 Truely Awesome 7a+ Sport 12m
8 Rubicon 7a Sport 12m
9 Zeitgeist

Up to the roof.

7b Sport
10 No Jug, No Thug E5 6b Trad
11 Cruising the Seven Seas E6 6b Trad
12 The Bomb is Coming 7a Sport
13 A Millers Tale V4 Boulder 5m
14 Pirhana Start V6 Boulder 5m
15 A Bigger Prize V4 Boulder 5m

1.12.2. Cornice 10 routes in Sector

Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.252509, -1.753098

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Bulge 1984 E5 6b Trad
2 Sting in the Tail E4 6a Trad
3 Incapacity Benefit 7a+ Sport
4 The Dole 1989 7c Sport
5 Yorkshire 8b 8a Sport
6 Ape Index 8b+ Sport
7 Brachiation Dance 7b+ Sport
8 The Free Monster 8a Sport
9 The Auctioneer 8a+ Sport
10 The Thatcher Years 7a Sport

1.12.3. Moat Buttress 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.250721, -1.748450

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Moatorhead 7b+ Sport
2 Coming Up for Air 7c Sport
3 Moat People 7b+ Sport
4 Afloat in the Moat 6c+ Sport

1.13. Chee Dale 180 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.253222, -1.821735

ethic

Mixture of trad and sport.

1.13.1. Two Tier 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.252390, -1.818850

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Countdown

FA: Ron Fawcett, 1981

7b Sport 20m
2 Darl - pitch 1

A great route from the 70s. A bouldery start gives way to an easy groove. Switch gear and step left on well-polished hold to gain a flake. Continue left on an easier ground.

{FR} 7a Sport 20m
3 Daylight Robbery 7b Sport 20m
4 Subterfuge {FR} 6c Sport 18m
5 Quality Control {FR} 7a Sport 18m
6 Gonads {FR} 8a+ Sport
7 Flow {FR} 8a+ Sport

1.13.2. Embankment 36 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.252513, -1.819960

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Unzipping the Wild Physique {FR} 4+ Sport
2 Rampant

FA: 1976

S Trad
3 The World According to Tommy Trout

May have been retro-bolted.

E4 6a Trad 20m
4 Hungry Eyes

Great climbing to a powerful and polished crux.

FA: 1982

7a+ Sport 20m
5 Beef It

FA: 1987

7b Sport 16m
6 The Secret Gudgeon Society

FA: 1987

7b Sport 16m
7 Stone the Loach

FA: 1988

7c Sport 15m
8 Mind of a Turbot

FA: 1987

7b Sport 13m
9 The Man Who Fell to Earth

FA: 1989

6c+ Sport 12m
10 Arachonothera / Arachonothera Direct

The left hand finish at the rough is F6b.

FA: 1976

6b+ Sport 18m
11 Prawnography

FA: 1996

6c Sport 14m
12 Bream in Black

FA: 1987

7a Sport 14m
13 Breamtime

FA: 1987

7a+ Sport 14m
14 The Barracuda Bass Sound

FA: 1987

7a+ Sport 14m
15 No Hiding Plaice

FA: 1987

7a Sport 14m
16 Whiting on the Wall

FA: 1995

7c Sport 14m
17 Sturgeon in the Cupboard

FA: 1987

7c Sport 14m
18 The Black Widow

Getting overgrown now.

FA: 1976

E1 5b Trad 18m
19 Silence of the Clams

FA: 1991

7a+ Sport 18m
20 Future Paradox

FA: 1984

E3 6a Trad 20m
21 Over the Rainbow Trout

FA: 1987

6c+ Sport 11m
22 Night of the Guppy

FA: 1988

7b Sport 10m
23 Lamprey on Ice

FA: 1999

7a+ Sport 10m
24 The Red Spider

FA: 1975

E2 5c Trad 20m
25 The Zander Welfare Club 7b Sport 16m
26 Red Snapper Meets the Dog Fish

FA: 1999

7a+ Sport 15m
27 Name That Tuna

FA: 1988

7c Sport 16m
28 Garfish Serenade

FA: 1999

7a+ Sport 18m
29 The Open Secret

FA: 1983

E5 6b Trad 18m
30 Fragile Earth

FA: 1983

E5 6a Trad 18m
31 Something Fishy

FA: 1992

7c Sport 18m
32 Fishing Without a Licence

FA: 1989

7c Sport
33 Barefoot in a Pool of Sharks

FA: 1987

7b+ Sport 15m
34 Kiss the Mackerel

FA: 1999

7c Sport 15m
35 The Life of a Stickleback

FA: 1987

7b+ Sport 15m
36 Minnows as a Substitute for White Bait

FA: 1999

6c Sport 15m

1.13.3. Max Buttress 25 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.253051, -1.818519

description

A small sheltered crag located in a beautiful setting by the River Wye.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pepsi Max

FA: 1999

{FR} 6c Sport 15m
2 Max Factor

FA: 1982

E2 5b Trad 20m
3 Max Head Room

FA: 1985

{FR} 7a Sport 20m
4 Max Wall

FA: 1979

E5 6a Trad 20m
5 Max Pax 'em In

FA: 1991

7a+ Sport 20m
6 Max 'is Wall

FA: 1985

6c Sport 20m
7 Lunatic Fringe

FA: 1985

6c+ Sport 20m
8 Max Pact

FA: 1985

6b Sport 20m
9 The Max Works

FA: 1983

6c+ Sport 20m
10 Incandescent Courage

FA: 1984

E6 6a Trad 20m
11 Max to the Wall

FA: 1985

7a+ Sport 20m
12 Max A Million

FA: 1985

7b Sport 20m
13 Afterlife

FA: 1983

E6 6b Trad 20m
14 Maxonomy

FA: 1991

7a+ Sport 20m
15 The Max Museum

FA: 1985

7b Sport 20m
16 Maxwell House

FA: 1991

7b+ Sport 20m
17 Rough Justice

FA: 1991

7c Sport 18m
18 A Bigger Max

FA: 1985

7b+ Sport 18m
19 The Max They Love to Hate

FA: 1991

7b Sport 18m
20 Dream Thief

FA: 1986

7a Sport 18m
21 Tyrannosaurus Max

FA: 1985

E3 6a Trad 10m
22 Let the Max Increase

FA: 1991

7b Sport 10m
23 Crankus Maximus

FA: 2011

7b+ Sport 10m
24 Maximuscle

FA: 2011

7c+ Sport 10m
25 Maxing Around

FA: 1991

7a+ Sport 10m

1.13.4. Plum Buttress 19 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.250533, -1.829459

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Little Prune HVS 5b Trad 12m
2 Peggy Sue E1 5a Trad 25m
3 Sirplum E1 5b Trad 60m, 2
4 The Plumb-line Finish E1 5b Trad 27m
5 The Defector E2 5c Trad 27m
6 Sloe Gin E6 6b Trad 37m, 2
7 TheSpider

FA: 1pt of aid

E6 6b Trad 33m, 2
8 The Big Plum E6 6b Trad 77m, 4
9 Raisin Roof E4 6a Trad 40m, 2
10 Victoria E3 5c Trad 46m, 2
11 Sparta in his Eyes E1 5b Trad 32m
12 The Stalk VS 4c Trad 27m
13 Scratch Race E5 6a Trad 27m
14 The Wilderness Years E5 6b Trad 30m
15 My Secret Life E5 6b Trad 30m
16 Sans Identity HVS 5a Trad 40m, 2
17 Eros Goes to Durham E3 5c Trad 20m
18 Sarin (girdle) HVS 5b Trad 120m, 5
19 Aplomb (upper girdle) 4c Trad 97m, 4

1.13.5. Cornice 91 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.255606, -1.817013

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ophelias Lobelia

FA: 1989

7b+ Sport
2 Forehead Trombone

FA: 1989

7b+ Sport 12m
3 Sharp Practice

FA: 1995

8a+ Sport 12m
4 Masculine Power Trip

FA: 1989

8a+ Sport 15m
5 Mescaline Power Trip

FA: 1989

8a Sport 15m
6 Wright-On

FA: 1994

8a Sport 14m
7 Wright to Left

FA: 1995

7c Sport 18m
8 Taylor Made

FA: 1989

7c Sport 14m
9 Feminine Ego Trip

FA: 1960

7c+ Sport 10m
10 Nemesis

FA: 1994

8a+ Sport 15m
11 Clematis

FA: 2011

8b Sport 15m
12 Bricktop

FA: 2010

8b Sport 18m
13 Monumental Armblaster

FA: 1989

8a+ Sport 20m
14 Malcolm X

FA: 1999

8b+ Sport 20m
15 Last Eggs Before the M1

FA: 1991

7c+ Sport 20m
16 Gran Techo

FA: 2011

8b Sport 20m
17 Techno Prisoners

FA: 2011

8b+ Sport 20m
18 The Jug Jockey

FA: 1990

7c+ Sport 20m
19 Easy Rider

FA: 2011

7c+ Sport 22m
20 Dreadnaught

FA: 1999

8c Sport 20m
21 The Roof Warrior

FA: 1991

8a Sport 20m
22 Cry of Despair

FA: 1990

7c Sport 20m
23 Rapid City

FA: 1990

8a Sport 15m
24 That was the River

FA: 1988

7b+ Sport 15m
25 Streamline

FA: 1994

7c+ Sport 12m
26 This is the Sea

FA: 1988

7c Sport 12m
27 Old Man River

FA: 1986

7b Sport 15m
28 The Naive and Sentimental Lover

FA: 1989

7b+ Sport 16m
29 Up the River Without a Paddle

FA: 1984

7a Sport 18m
30 Snails of the Riverbank

FA: 1986

7b Sport 16m
31 Zippy Stardust and the Spiders from Mars

FA: 1976

6b+ Sport 23m
32 The Monday Club

FA: 1989

7a Sport 23m
33 Trampled Underfoot

FA: 1989

7a Sport 23m
34 Gardener's Question Time

FA: 1994

7a Sport 12m
35 Rue Morgue

FA: 1979

6c Sport 20m
36 After the Goldfish

FA: 1986

7b Sport 20m
37 Crowd Control

FA: 1989

7c Sport 20m
38 Une Crime Passionnel

FA: 1982

E4 6a Trad 22m
39 Fey

FA: 1980

E4 5c Trad 22m
40 War Memorial

FA: 1983

6c+ Sport 22m
41 Succubus

FA: 1994

7b Sport 22m
42 Shazam

FA: 1976

E4 6a Trad 22m
43 Martial Music

FA: 1983

7a+ Sport 22m
44 Clarion Call

FA: 1983

7a Sport 22m
45 The Poppy Fields

FA: 2004

7b+ Sport 22m
46 Armistice Day

FA: 1984

7a Sport 22m
47 Whose Line is it Anyway?

FA: 1989

7b Sport 22m
48 Big Store

FA: 1984

E5 6b Trad 23m
49 The Egyptian Bizarre

FA: 1989

E5 6b Trad 22m
50 Hawaii Five-O/Ali

FA: 1989

7b+ Sport 63m, 2
51 Tour de France

FA: 1983

7a Sport 35m
52 Big Zipper

FA: 1986

7b Sport 20m
53 Beelzebub

FA: 1996

7b+ Sport 18m
54 Bored of the Lies

FA: 1986

7b+ Sport 20m
55 Ouijaboard

FA: 1997

8a Sport 20m
56 Four Door Dostoyevsky

FA: 1989

8a+ Sport 17m
57 Powerplant

FA: 1988

8a Sport 17m, 6
58 Devonshire Arms

FA: 1997

8a+ Sport 18m
59 K3

FA: 1994

8a+ Sport 19m
60 42

FA: 1995

8b Sport 19m
61 32

FA: 2007

8b+ Sport 20m
62 R'n'P

FA: 1990

8a+ Sport 21m
63 Snatch

FA: 2003

8b Sport 22m
64 Barney Ragin'

FA: 1996

8b+ Sport 21m
65 Love Amongst the Butterflies

FA: 1996

8b Sport 21m
66 Asia Shadow Player

FA: 1997

8b Sport 20m
67 Somehow Super

FA: 2005

8c Sport 20m
68 Unleashing the Wild Physique

FA: 1986

8a Sport 20m
69 Cosmopolitan

FA: 1989

{FR} 7b+ Sport 20m
70 Cordless Madness

FA: 1989

7c Sport 20m
71 Mandy

FA: 1986

7b+ Sport 20m
72 Flowers in the Dirt

FA: 1989

7b Sport 20m
73 The Third Order

FA: 1985

7b Sport 20m
74 Loco

FA: 2001

7b+ Sport 20m
75 Too Pumpy for Grumpy

FA: 1989

7b+ Sport 20m
76 Further Adventures in Greendale

FA: 1989

6c+ Sport 20m
77 The Cruel Sea

FA: 1982

E5 6a Trad 27m
78 Old Man's Gambit

FA: 1976

E2 5c Trad 25m
79 The Corniceman

FA: 1986

7a+ Sport 20m
80 Chapter and Verse 6b Sport 12m
81 Ezekiel Stool

FA: 1979

E1 5b Trad 20m
82 Um Bongo

FA: 1986

E4 6b Trad 20m
83 Led up the Garden Path

FA: 1985

E1 5b Trad 10m
84 Percy's World 6c+ Sport 11m
85 Flash Harry

FA: 1985

E4 5c Trad 13m
86 Too Jugless for Douglas

FA: 1985

E4 6b Trad 12m
87 Subversive

FA: 1985

E2 5b Trad 9m
88 Bombardier 6c+ Sport 11m
89 The Snap 7a Sport 9m
90 Mike's Bike and the Collar-bone Experience

FA: 1989

7b+ Sport 12m
91 Skin-Flick

FA: 1989

7c+ Sport 9m

1.13.6. Rhubarb Buttress 0 routes in Cliff

1.13.7. Chee Tor 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.256389, -1.816633

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pedigree Chum 8c+ Sport
2 Finest Pedigree

Extension traverse of Pedigree Chum.

FFA: Steve McClure, 2011

{FR} 9a+ Sport

1.14. Aldery Cliff 44 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 53.194037, -1.855301

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sword and Stone {US} FR:5b UK:E2 Unknown 8m
2 The High Crusade {US} FR:5c UK:E2 Unknown 15m
3 Hidden Corner {US} FR:4a UK:HS Unknown 15m
4 Therianthropic {US} FR:5a UK:HVS Unknown 15m
5 Jackorner VS 4c Unknown 17m
6 Coopers Route {US} FR:5c UK:E2 Unknown 17m
7 November Wall {US} FR:5b UK:E2 Unknown 17m
8 Timber {US} FR:4a UK:HS Unknown 15m
9 Rent a Ghost S Unknown 15m
10 The Clone of Jeremiah {US} FR:4c Unknown 14m
11 Nazi Baby S Unknown 14m
12 The Arete {US} FR:5a UK:HVS Unknown 20m
13 Mitre Crack {US} FR:4c Unknown 20m
14 Chance in a Marillion {US} FR:6a UK:E3 Unknown 20m
15 The Cardinal VS 4c Unknown 20m
16 The Bishop HVS 5b Unknown 23m
17 Sycamore Crack HS 4c Unknown 23m
18 Jeremys Jugular Jaunt S Unknown 22m
19 Jackdaws Gully HD Unknown 22m
20 Carmen Jones VS 4b Unknown 25m
21 Carmen VS 4c Unknown 25m
22 Deceptor VS 4c Unknown 23m
23 Sans Nom VS 4b Unknown 20m
24 Central Gully VD Unknown 20m
25 Black Country Rock HVS 5a Unknown 15m
26 Ash Tree Arete HVD Unknown 25m
27 Anti-digestant HVS 5a Unknown 25m
28 Ash Tree Slab HS 4a Unknown 25m
29 Nettlerash VS 4c Unknown 30m
30 Broken Toe VS 4c Unknown 35m
31 Formic VS 4c Unknown 35m
32 Venom HVS 5b Unknown 35m
33 Yukio VS 4c Unknown 35m
34 Central Arete HVD Unknown 35m
35 Janbaloo HVS 5b Unknown 35m
36 Surface Plate HVS 5a Unknown 35m
37 Clothesline S Unknown 35m
38 The Fly HVS 5a Unknown 35m
39 The Spider VS 4c Unknown 35m
40 Burst HVS 5a Unknown 35m
41 The Bender HVS 5a Unknown 33m
42 Terrace Wall VS 4b Unknown 35m
43 A Question of Palance VS 4b Unknown 30m
44 Right Arete VS 4b Unknown 30m

1.15. Wildcat Crags 59 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.115593, -1.559285

1.15.1. Blue Grass Buttress 0 routes in Cliff

description

Mostly overgrown, only a few routes still climbable.

1.15.2. New Bridge Buttress 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Criminally Insane {FR} 7a+ Sport
2 Trick Psychlist {FR} 7c+ Sport
3 Strait Psychlist {FR} 7a+ Sport
4 Strait Jacket {FR} 7a Sport
5 Recoil {FR} 6b+ Sport
6 Shock Treatment {FR} 7a Sport
7 Lunatic Asylum {FR} UK:HVS Trad
8 The Mentalist {FR} 7a+ Sport

1.15.3. Grayling Buttress 0 routes in Cliff

1.15.4. Slippery Slabs 0 routes in Cliff

1.15.5. Puma Buttress 0 routes in Cliff

1.15.6. Feline Buttress 0 routes in Cliff

1.15.7. Bivvy Niche Buttress 0 routes in Cliff

1.15.8. Main Wall 38 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 New Exile E1 5b Trad
2 Pussy Galore E2 5c Trad
3 Violent Night E3 5c Trad

Catacomb Area

4 Cat Call VS 4c Trad
5 Caterpillar's Crawl HVS 5a Trad
6 Puss Moth HVS 5a Trad
7 Catacomb Direct HVS 5a Trad
8 Catacomb VS 4c Trad
9 Paws for Thought E1 5b Trad
10 Fear E3 5b Trad

Lyon Route Area

11 Catastrophe Grooves HVS 5a Trad
12 White Room HVS 5a Trad
13 Cat Cull E1 5c Trad
14 Lyon Route E1 5b Trad

Broken Toe Area

15 Coyote Buttress HVS 5a Trad
16 Derek's Dilemma VS 4c Trad
17 Broken toe groove VS 4c Trad 38m, 2
18 Jackdaw Grooves VS 4b Trad 38m
19 Nine Lives Wall HVS 5a Trad
20 Catharsis Wall HVS 5a Trad
21 Cats Eye S 4a Trad
22 Budweiser Effect HVS 4c Trad
23 Mothra E1 5c Trad
24 McPlumb Wall HVS 5a Trad
25 Negative G E1 5b Trad
26 Cougar Cleft S Trad

Tiger Buttress

27 Cat on Hot Bricks E1 5b Trad
28 Tiger Route 1 VS 4c Trad

Cat Walk Buttress

29 Fragile Glass HVS 5b Trad
30 Sourpuss VS 4c Trad
31 Ripsnorter VS 4b Trad
32 Why is a Unicorn Hollow? E1 5b Trad
33 Steel Pulse E1 5b Trad
34 Super-Pauline E1 5b Trad
35 Pupilla VS 4c Trad
36 Cat Walk HS 4a Trad
37 Return of the Old Tigers HVS 5b Trad
38 Manky Meander VS 4b Trad

1.15.9. High Crag 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Grand Prix E1 5a Trad
2 Manx VS 4b Trad
3 Blurb E1 5b Trad
4 Golden Yardstick VS 5a Trad 44m, 2
5 Lobo VS 4b Trad
6 Tut's Anomalous E1 5b Trad
7 The Catcuss Furballs Connections E5 6b Trad
8 Clash of Arms E4 6a Trad
9 Great Cleft E2 5c Trad
10 Lynx HS 4b Trad 46m, 2
11 Stolen Jewel E4 6a Trad
12 Sphynx VS 4c Trad
13 Climacteric VS 5a Trad 40m

1.15.10. Cataclysm Area 0 routes in Cliff

1.15.11. Mole Trap Buttress 0 routes in Cliff

1.15.12. Woodbank Tor 0 routes in Cliff

1.15.13. Upper Tor 0 routes in Cliff

1.15.14. Mill Tor 0 routes in Cliff

1.16. Winnat's Pass 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 53.340505, -1.797685

description

Awesome rock architecture with real adventure feel

approach

Crags on both sides of winnats pass.Real test for car brakes!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Elbow Ridge D Unknown 65m
2 Matterhorn Ridge VD Unknown 65m

1.17. Brassington 45 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.090365, -1.675533

description

The climbing area of Brassington is a diminutive but interesting set of towers of high quality magnesian limestone. It is set in a wonderfully pictueresque landscape. Th rock has lots of pockets and can be fairly highly polished in some areas. The area is a little overgrown, with at least one buttress now completely cloaked in vegetation. Despite this, there is some good climbing to be had here, especially on the East Hill where the multi-pitch outings of the various variations on The Long Climb, and the closely-packed routes on the Upper Tier are well worth visiting. The area is also known as Rainster Rocks

1.17.1. East Hill - Long Climb Area 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

description

Ivy and other vegitation are invading this area. Get the climbs done before they disappear.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Long Climb Variant VD Trad 34m
2 Long Climb Indirect S 4a Trad 34m
3 Long Climb Direct HS 4b Trad 30m
4 International Climb VS 4c Trad 30m

1.17.2. East Hill - Upper Tier 25 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

description

A short seried of smart pocketed walls and steep crack- lines in a fine sunny setting and with a broad grassy base - just the spot for a picnic and a bit of mellow climbing.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Face Climb Number 1 D Trad 8m
2 Arete Number 1 VD Trad 8m
3 Steep Chimney VD Trad 8m
4 Arete Number 2 VD 4a Trad 8m
5 Face Climb Number 2 VD Trad 8m
6 Pedestal Chimney M Trad 8m
7 Pedestal Wall HVS 5a Trad 8m
8 Brassington Crack Arete S 4a Trad 8m
9 Brassington Crack Face HS 4b Trad 8m
10 Brassington Crack HVD Trad 8m
11 Brassington Face VD Trad 8m
12 Easy Arete M Trad 8m
13 Snuffer Chimney S 4b Trad 8m
14 The Overhang Indirect VS 4c Trad 12m
15 The Overhang HVS 5b Trad 10m
16 Smooth Chimney Outside Route HS 4b Trad 10m
17 Smooth Chimney VD Trad 10m
18 Elder Rib VS 4c Trad 10m
19 Chockstone Chimney D Trad 10m
20 Crack and Face VD Trad 10m
21 Face Direct VS 4c Trad 8m
22 Angel's Crawl VS 4c Trad 8m
23 Elderberry Crack S 4a Trad 6m
24 Savoy Crack HS 4b Trad 6m
25 Two Minute Crack S 4a Trad 6m

1.17.3. West Hill - Lower Tier 9 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

description

Below the crest of the West Hill is the Lower Tier. This has a selection of climbs, many of which have become overgrown. The best of these are listed briefly here - get them done before the vanish forever under the vegetation. The first routes are on the proud buttress at the left-hand end of the tier

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pillar Chimney HVD Trad 7m
2 Penlington's Progress VS 4c Trad 7m
3 Pillar Face VD Trad 8m
4 Nettle Wall VD Trad 10m
5 Nettle Chimney D Trad 10m
6 Cracked Wall VD Trad 10m
7 Ash Tree Chimney VD Trad 10m
8 Ash Tree Wall VD Trad 10m
9 Ash Tree Wall Crack VD Trad 10m

1.17.4. West Hill - Upper Tier 7 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Rock climbing

description

The small and clean Upper Tier forms the summit of the hill and is in a fine position with great outward views and superb rock.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 West Face Climb VD Unknown
2 Blind Man's Arete M Unknown
3 Little Wall VD Unknown
4 Elderberry Chimney M Unknown
5 West Hill Arete VD Unknown
6 Little-by Little S 4c Unknown
7 Little Crack M Unknown

1.18. Masson Lees 55 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.127823, -1.572090

summary

A secluded limestone quarry 10 minutes away from the road.

description

Limestone quarry with sport routes, a dry tooling wall, and a long cave. There were recent rockfalls (2022) near the red wall area so care must be taken when climbing.

The dry tooling area is nicely equipped, but it also contains the "entrance" of the cave, with large drops and chasms. Care must be taken when accessing this section.

access issues

Short scrambling across a boulder field is required to access the quarry.

approach

Park your car at the layby. Ember Ln, Bonsall, Matlock DE4 2AF. The quarry can be found by following the footpath across two gates (10 minutes of walk)

ethic

Park sensibly at the layby, do not block access to the farmer's field.

1.18.1. Overhanging Wall 18 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Lat / Long: 53.127120, -1.571057

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pocket Rocket {FR} 6c Sport 20m
2 Eye, Eye

A superb eye-catching pitch via a series ofcrusty pockets that run up the leaning wall. Eases with altitude.......

{FR} 6b+ Sport 20m
3 Reactn {FR} 6b+ Sport 14m
4 Java Script {FR} 7a+ Sport 18m
5 In The Pocket {FR} 6c+ Sport 18m
6 Exorcised {FR} 7b Sport 18m
7 Exo6

More sustained fingery climbing with some neat manoeuvres up the pale streak. Holds have come and gone. Stiff for the grade.

{FR} 7a Sport 18m
8 Bison Fute {FR} 7b Sport 18m
9 Pierluigi Galena {FR} 7a Sport 18m
10 second Class Citizen {FR} 6c+ Sport 18m
11 Handy Borehole {FR} 6c+ Sport 24m
12 Quatrieme Quatrier {FR} 7a Sport 24m
13 The Premier Club {FR} 7a+ Sport 24m
14 The Pete Clark Diaries {FR} 7a Sport 24m
15 The Masson Chronicles {FR} 7b Sport 24m
16 Nice One Masson {FR} 7a+ Sport 24m
17 Woof Justice {FR} 7a+ Sport 24m
18 Grand Auto Theft {FR} 7a Sport 24m

1.18.2. Black Wall 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Lat / Long: 53.127365, -1.571479

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Seventh TIme Lucky

The extension is Plucked at 7b+

7b+ Sport 14m
2 Never To Rise

The extension is named Resurrection and is graded at 7b+

7a+ Sport 24m
3 Long black Veil 7a Sport 24m
4 Fuck Your Gods 7a Sport 24m
5 Cattle Mutilation Expedition 6c+ Sport 20m
6 Masson Impossible 6c Sport 20m
7 The Numbers Game 6b Sport 20m
8 Lifelong Learning 5c Sport 14m
9 Closing Chapter 6b Sport 14m
10 Opening Salvo 6b+ Sport 14m
11 Last Offence

Good, sustained reechy climbing.

6b+ Sport 14m
12 Better Luck Next Time Steve 6b+ Sport 14m

1.18.3. White Wall 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Lat / Long: 53.127653, -1.572033

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Maitre d'Hotel 6a Sport 14m
2 Major Dormo

Belaying is tricky, the direct start of the route is more of a 6a.

5b Sport 14m
3 Four by Four 6c+ Sport 14m
4 Hilt Sound System

Fine sustained and finger climbing at the grade, but not too hard.

FA: Gary Gibson, 2004

{FR} 7a Sport 16m, 10

1.18.4. Wake Up Wall 0 routes in Cliff

1.18.5. Red Wall 21 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Lat / Long: 53.127556, -1.570785

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Wake Up Call

Hard lower wall and beefy roof make this worth seeking out.

{FR} 6b+ Sport 14m
2 Crack O'Dawn

Aim for the groove. things soon ease

{FR} 5+ Sport 11m
3 Mourning has broken {FR} 6a+ Sport 12m
4 Slumberland {FR} 5+ Sport 12m
5 Dawn's Crisis {FR} 4+ Sport 12m
6 Wake me up before you Go Go

Finish at the shared lower offs on previous route

{FR} 4+ Sport 12m
7 Oh To Lie In {FR} 5+ Sport 12m
8 Sludge Money {FR} 4+ Sport 12m
9 Five Years and Waiting {FR} 4+ Sport 12m
10 Auto Pilot

The start is tough, it is easier and looser above.

{FR} 6c Sport 12m
11 Moov Over {FR} 6b Sport 12m
12 Have a Cow {FR} 6a+ Sport 12m
13 Udderley {FR} 5+ Sport 12m
14 Featherlite Arete {FR} 6a Sport 12m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
15 Red and Ribbed for Your Pleasure {FR} 6c Sport 12m
16 Who Sat on my Satsuma

Up the left hand side of the red wall with the odd tricky move linking the mostly good holds.

{FR} 6a Sport 14m
17 A life of Grime

The centre of the wall is nice and sustained with the odd reachy move. Pumpy

{FR} 6a+ Sport 14m
18 Fun in the Sun

Due to recent rockfall from the cliff above, this route now cannot be climbed safely.

{FR} 6a+ Sport 14m
19 End O Taffs Corner

Loose rock has now been cleaned.

{FR} 4+ Sport 20m
20 The Chemistry Mates

Loose rock has now been cleared.

{FR} 3 Sport 14m
21 Physics Too

Recent rockfall made the bottom and the top of this route unsafe.

{FR} 6b+ Sport 20m

1.18.6. Right Hand Quarry 0 routes in Cliff

1.18.7. Dry Tooling Cave 0 routes in Cliff

1.19. Halldale Quarry 0 routes in Crag

access issues

CLIMBING IS NOT ALLOWED AT HALLDALE QUARRY. See the BMC Regional Access Database:

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/viewcrag.aspx?id=931

1.20. Harpur Hill 281 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.231466, -1.907088

description

Old limestone quarry with lots of sport routes as well as a number of trad routes. For a history of the crag, and updates on routes (bolts, etc.) see http://www.sportsclimbs.co.uk/mainpages/peak/Harpur%20Hill.htm

In some of, but not all, the sectors there is some loose rock. A helmet is probably a good idea.

access issues

Access is sensitive (as the BMC put it). The old quarry is on private property and there is no access agreement. The owner occasionally appears and asks people to leave, please do so promptly and courteously.

For up to date access info, see https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ViewCrag.aspx?id=118

1.20.1. Dark Side Lower 93 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.232931, -1.904988

1.20.1.1. Racetrack Player Area 21 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.231589, -1.904024

1.20.1.2. Pool Wall Area 28 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.232912, -1.905055

1.20.1.3. Railway Buttress 7 routes in Sector
Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.233247, -1.905283

1.20.1.4. Long Wall Area 19 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.233531, -1.905582

1.20.1.5. College Buttress 18 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.234169, -1.905805

1.20.2. Upper Tier 96 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.232346, -1.907311

1.20.2.1. Nidge's Wall 8 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Sport climbing
1.20.2.2. Poised Block Buttress 15 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing
1.20.2.3. Papacy Sector 25 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
1.20.2.4. Exclusion Zone Area 24 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing
1.20.2.5. Prophecy Buttress 24 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Sport climbing
1.20.2.6. Twilight Sector 0 routes in Cliff

1.20.3. The Lower Tier 41 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.233270, -1.907129

1.20.3.1. Anarchy Sector 6 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Sport climbing
1.20.3.2. Candy Sector 12 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Sport climbing
1.20.3.3. Totty Sector 5 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Sport climbing
1.20.3.4. Sumo Sector 18 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

1.20.4. Cairn Sector 32 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.232401, -1.908510

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Inconsiderate Blinking {FR} 6a+ Sport
2 Hey Diddle Diddle {FR} 5b UK:E1 Trad
3 Unilateral Thinking {FR} 6c Sport
4 Pell Mell {FR} 5c UK:E3 Trad
5 The Light {FR} 7a Sport
6 Take Flight {FR} 6c+ Sport
7 Buxton Goes French {FR} 6b+ Sport
8 Outer Limits {FR} 6b Sport
9 Twilight Zone {FR} 6a+ Sport
10 Argy Bargy {FR} 5a Sport
11 The Misfits {FR} 6a Sport
12 Hissing Sid {FR} 6b Sport
13 Slippery Bill {FR} 5a UK:HVS Trad
14 Ratline {FR} 7b+ Sport
15 Carin {FR} 7a Sport
16 Stealth {FR} 7a+ Sport
17 Great White {FR} 6a Sport
18 Orca {FR} 6a+ Sport
19 The Naked Spur

The rather totty arete is the easiest route hereabouts....great fun climbing.

{FR} 5b Sport 18m
20 Assault and Battery {FR} 6b+ Sport
21 Trial and Error {FR} 7a Sport
22 Senile Delinquents

The flake and wide crack to the roof, then pull over it and mantle.

{FR} 5c+ Sport 20m
23 Cabin Fever {FR} 6b Sport
24 Fred Flintstone {FR} 4b UK:VS Trad
25 Barney Rubble {FR} 4c UK:VS Trad
26 Yabba Dabba Doo! {FR} 4b UK:HS Trad
27 Breakfast at Safeways {FR} 6b Sport
28 Jam Butty Mines Crack

Balance up to the cracked then follow to the top.

{FR} 4c+ Sport 12m
29 99p Special {FR} 6b Sport
30 Food for Sport

The arete with the problematic start.

{FR} 6a Sport 12m
31 Over Easy {FR} 6a Sport
32 Short Sport {FR} 6b Sport

1.20.5. The Sanctuary 19 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.230512, -1.909002

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 By Cesarean {FR} 5c Sport 10m
2 New Arrivals {FR} 6a Sport 10m
3 Expecting {FR} 4+ Sport 10m
4 Induction Program {FR} 5a Sport 10m
5 Premature {FR} 6a Sport 10m
6 Safe Haven {FR} 5+ Sport 18m
7 The Hollow Man {FR} 5+ Sport 18m
8 Christian Salvage Man {FR} 6a Sport 18m
9 Which Depp-Artment {FR} 6a+ Sport 11m
10 Ichabod {FR} 5c Sport 11m
11 Sleepy Hollow {FR} 6a+ Sport 11m
12 Bonny Helena {FR} 5 Sport 11m
13 Gone for a Tim Burton {FR} 5 Sport 11m
14 The Height Below {FR} 4+ Sport 11m
15 The Sanctuarian {FR} 6c Sport 11m
16 For Heaven's Sake {FR} 6b Sport 11m
17 Downtown {FR} 6b Sport 11m
18 What Lies Beneath {FR} 6b Sport 11m
19 Haven or Hell {FR} 6a+ Sport 9m

1.20.6. The Playground 0 routes in Unknown

1.20.7. The Retreat 0 routes in Unknown

1.20.8. Dark Side Upper 0 routes in Unknown

1.21. Smalldale 12 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.290228, -1.856485

1.21.1. Going Straight Wall 12 routes in Sector

Summary:

description

this has become the most popular wall at the quarry, with a set of well-bolted routes on the vertical face.

approach

Follow the path to the right of the quarry gate, walk across the grounds to the grass and follow the well trodden path through the greenery. The right-most developed rock at the moment which can be easily reached from the path below.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Stone The crows

Take the cracks and then pull out on to the exposed tower

{FR} 6b Sport 18m
2 Learn the Lingo

Make some good sustained moves up the face, passing some scars early on, then trending slightly left.

{FR} 6c Sport 18m
3 Mr Love Pants

Starts as for "Learn the Lingo", but keep right and climb the rib passing the small overlap with sustained interest.

{FR} 6b+ Sport 18m