Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Avon Gorge Sea Walls Area Exploding Galaxy Wall | |||||
E4 UKT:6b | The Real St Werburghs
F7b, short hard climbing, past two staples. | 10m | |||
E6 UKT:6b | Unknown Pleasures
Large rockfall at the base. Potentially no longer possible/very dangerous to climb P1. [March 2021]
| 70m, 2 | |||
E6 UKT:6b | ★ Psychopath Way
| 72m, 3 | |||
E5 UKT:6b | Imploding Galaxy
| 72m, 3 | |||
E6 UKT:6b | ★★★ Tour de France
Intense climbing that builds to a decisive pitch which battles up the thin seam and shear wall left of the top of the ramp. Start as for Yellow Edge.
| 72m, 3 | |||
E4 UKT:6b | ★ Duncan Goes to Clevedon | 12m | |||
Avon Gorge Sea Walls Area Unknown Buttress | |||||
E6 UKT:6b | ★ Smog of Things | 45m | |||
E5 UKT:6b | Cuban Eyes | 33m | |||
E6 UKT:6b | The Rebel Yell | 33m | |||
E3 UKT:6b | Slap Stick
E5 without the pegs | 10m | |||
FR:7b+ | ★ 56 Is The New 55
Just to the right of Jimmy Lowe. Thin hard moves to start. 3 bolts | ||||
Avon Gorge Sea Walls Area Upper Walls | |||||
E4 UKT:6b | Keep on Going | 20m | |||
E4 UKT:6b | ★★ Solar Power
Lovely climb on great quality rock. Climb the Slender Norris crack to a shrubbery (which may benefit from the occasional prune). Place some good gear as high as you can reach and then traverse left on good crimps to a thinner crack that offers quite little in terms of gear and holds. Work your way up to a break to find good hold and and a reassuring peg, then make long reachy moves up and right to gain a shake-out and the biggest, fattest peg anybody has ever placed. Somehow find a way to get stood up in the seemingly blank scoop above and tip-toe delicately right to an exit where a belay station can (eventually) be found. | 19m | |||
E4 UKT:6b | Big Wednesday | 18m | |||
E6 UKT:6b | An Illusion of Love | 18m | |||
E5 UKT:6b | ★★ Lost Illusions
F7b climbing | 18m | |||
E6 UKT:6b | Bold as Love | ||||
E5 UKT:6b | Raindoctor | 17m | |||
E5 UKT:6b | Street Life
Some thin moves and a long reach up to the pegs at the break for a semi-rest before launching up the headwall just right of the Arms Race ring bolt. | ||||
E5 UKT:6b | ★★★ Low Profile
Takes a disjointed crackline. Grade depends on finish used. The LH finish is best and hardest at E5. The original finish traverses R 20' below the top to the arete and is E4. Superb and very sustained wall climbing. Start at pockets in the wall just left of a small overhang, 4m right of the start of Arms Race. Climb up the pockets to meet the base of a short right trending crack. Climb the crack to a peg and step right to a thinner crack. Climb this past another peg to a move right and a shakeout on the blunt arete. Move up to a peg and then climb the steepening wall past a peg on the left to the top | ||||
E6 UKT:6b | Low Police Profile | ||||
E6 UKT:6b | Higher Profile | ||||
FB:6C | ★ Virginia Giuffre
A few metres to the right of the Prince. Sit start at the good holds just left of the crack and take the rising seam to the foot ledge at the start of the Prince. (The low drilled mono is in and fairly crucial) | ||||
FB:6C | ★ The Pauper
The wall just to the right of the seepy crack with a long move up and right to slanting edge. | ||||
Avon Gorge Sea Walls Area Chocoholics Wall | |||||
E7 UKT:6b | Shake-time
The pink streak to the right of the corner, started directly. Poor gear. Second ascenscionist (on-sight) said E6 6b. Must finsh up slight arête for full grade. | ||||
Avon Gorge Sea Walls Area Unknown Area Traverses | |||||
E5 UKT:6b | Zero Option | 60m, 2 | |||
E6 UKT:6b | ★★★ The Ramp Challenge
All stared routes on the ramp in 24 hours. (Current guide book) * Banshee E2 5c (pitch 1) * Us E2 5b (pitch 1) * Low Profile E5 6b Arms Race E4 5c Mirage E3 6a/b Bold as Love E6 6b Lost Illusions E5 6b New Horizons II E3 5c Solar Power E5 6b * Already Gone E6 6a Them E3 6a ** Tour de France E6 6b (top pitch) Each person must lead each pitch, the gear can be left in by the first, the ropes pulled and the second can climb on that gear. If you fall pull the ropes. | 12 | |||
Avon Gorge Sea Walls Area The Problem Pages | |||||
E5 UKT:6b | The Metaphysical Flake | 10m | |||
E5 UKT:6b | Nuts in May | 10m | |||
E3 UKT:6b | Slippery People | 8m | |||
E4 UKT:6b | Irish Girl | 6m | |||
E5 UKT:6b | Dead Dreams Fly Flags | 8m | |||
E3 UKT:6b | Dark Crystal | 20m | |||
Avon Gorge Sea Walls Area The Construction Site | |||||
FR:7c | ★★ Steve’s tekkers 7c | ||||
Avon Gorge Sea Walls Area Railed-Off Cave Area | |||||
FR:7b+ | ★ Just Searing Away
Trad up to the bolts. | 25m | |||
E3 UKT:6b | Thirty-One Years
Identifiable by the two M10 bolts on the black wall. Move left to the borehole niche and use the chain lower off above. | 20m | |||
E5 UKT:6b | The Pact | 18m | |||
E4 UKT:6b | Intestines | 18m | |||
E7 UKT:6b | To Be Is Not to Bolt
Direct out of the railed off cave (peg now missing) to RPs and hand placed pegs in flake. Then scary rockover crux to easier finish. Low in the grade; has been on-sighted. | 15m | |||
E5 UKT:6b | The Beat | 8m | |||
E5 UKT:6b | ★ Starless and Bible Black | 10m | |||
E4 UKT:6b | ★ Whizz for Atoms | 20m | |||
FR:7b+ | ★ Psyched Seared and Delivered
The line of bolts to the right of Just Searing Away. Start directly below the first bolt and make very direct moves to the second. From the ledge move up and right to a resting spot at the small overlap. Sear up the thin wall past two more bolts. The lower-off is at the Hawthorn tree as for Just searing Away | ||||
Avon Gorge Sea Walls Area Upper Terrace | |||||
FB:6C+ | Particles | ||||
E5 UKT:6b | The Cover Up
| 52m, 3 | |||
E4 UKT:6b | Tremors
| 51m, 3 | |||
E5 UKT:6b | Shakin' All Over
| 50m, 2 | |||
Avon Gorge Sea Walls Area Right Wing | |||||
V5 | One for the road
Two metres left of The Arete far left on graffiti'd wall, find polished foothold at head height. painful crimps lead past foothold to flake. | ||||
V5 | ★★ The Arete
One Avon's best boulder problems, layback the arete sticking to its rightside. | ||||
E4 UKT:6b | Gymslip
thin crack just right of Floegs folly, above a starfish mural. Line follows crack to a blunt arete, bolt belay above arete FFA: 1979 | 15m | |||
E5 UKT:6b | Edgemaster | ||||
E7 UKT:6b | The Ardvark and the Ferret | ||||
Avon Gorge Sea Walls Area Idleburger Buttress Area | |||||
E7 UKT:6b | The Independent Route
Solo. Thin slab with a mono without recourse to holds on neighbouring routes. Requires the steeliest of nerves and the best in stickability. Much harder for vertically challenged, i.e. sub 6 foot one-ers! | 11m | |||
Avon Gorge Sea Walls Area The Mesa | |||||
E5 UKT:6b | King of the Impossible | 20m | |||
Avon Gorge Sea Walls Area The New Quarry | |||||
{FR} FR:7b+ | Bulking Agent
A very fingery line up the left hand side of the sheer wall immediately left of Bitter and Twisted. | 12m, 6 | |||
FR:7b | ★ Zildjan Direct
A direct version of an older Trad E4. Climb the line of bolts above a borehole strike directly to meet and finish as for Paiste 2002. Moving out left after the second bolt and climbing the right curving weakness to rejoin the line at the 5th bolt is 7a. | ||||
{FR} FR:7b | ★ The Fury
Follow Ready and Waiting, shoot right at bolt 6. Sequency moves diagonally then straight up to anchors. | 20m, 8 | |||
E5 UKT:6b | Product of an Unsound Mind | 20m | |||
Avon Gorge Avon Main Area Main Area Main Wall Left | |||||
E4 UKT:6b | Malediction
| 52m, 2 | |||
FR:7b+ | Link Pink
| 47m, 3 | |||
Avon Gorge Avon Main Area Main Area Main Wall Central | |||||
E6 UKT:6b | ★★★ Pink Ginsane
An exposed and run-out pitch that takes on the blank central section of the pink wall, high on the left side of the face. Start via a scramble to a good ledge directly below the wall.
| 27m | |||
E6 UKT:6b | ★ A Profusion of Pink
| 37m, 2 | |||
E6 UKT:6b | ★ Caught under Cloud Nine
| 60m, 2 | |||
E6 UKT:6b | ★ Coup d'Etat
F7c climbing. | 20m | |||
E4 UKT:6b | Born to Be Riled | ||||
E6 UKT:6b | Bristol Unillustrated | 18m | |||
Avon Gorge Avon Main Area Main Area Main Wall Right | |||||
E6 UKT:6b | Timespan
| 60m, 3 | |||
E5 UKT:6b | ★★★ Changeling
1
E5 6b
2
E5 6b
An excellent route incorporating a lot of difficult and tenuous climbing as well as some serious situations on the first pitch. Start on Breakfast Ledge.
| 54m, 2 | |||
Avon Gorge Avon Main Area Central Buttress | |||||
E5 UKT:6b | Slap 'n' Tickle | 18m | |||
Avon Gorge Avon Main Area Fairyland | |||||
E4 UKT:6b | Fly Away, Ladybird | 15m | |||
FR:7c | The Faerie Queene
The line to the left of Titania. Make really hard moves directly past the first two bolts then step right near at the top, past the top bolt of Titania and make the exiting mantle out. | ||||
FR:7b+ | ★★ Titania
The crimpy wall to the left of Oberon (3 bolts + static rope lower off on rock anchor above) | ||||
FR:7b | ★ Oberon
The line to the left of Clot Buster. Two bolts on the face then one over the top generously placed to get you to the lower off. Hard moves to get to the obvious finger ramp. | ||||
Avon Gorge Avon Main Area Roadside | |||||
E4 UKT:6b | Bristol Diamond | 10m | |||
E5 UKT:6b | FKD | 10m | |||
Avon Gorge Suspension Bridge Battleship Buttress | |||||
FR:7c | HMS Victory
The line to the right of 45° In the Shade. Move left when at the second bolt to good holds on 45° then up slightly right to a good side pull which leads to a strenuous and sloping exit | ||||
E6 UKT:6b | The Blucher
E6 6b with 2 rest points (in 8m). Awaits a clean ascent on gear. Clipping bolts negates a true ascent. | 8m | |||
FR:7b | ★ Fickle Finger of Fate | 8m | |||
Avon Gorge Suspension Bridge The Red Wall | |||||
FR:7b | ★ Flummoxy Slab
The wall and slab between A quick roll please and better in 9/8 At the thin seam span right to a pocket and make hard moves using small layaways onto the slab. Teeter up on smears to the finishing holds. (To tick the grade don’t use the big holds for hands and feet just to the right of the pocket) | ||||
Avon Gorge Suspension Bridge The Rust Wall Area | |||||
E3 UKT:6b | Vermillion Vagabond | 20m | |||
E5 UKT:6b | Red Alert | 40m | |||
Avon Gorge Suspension Bridge Giant's Cave Buttress Area | |||||
E4 UKT:6b | Behind Bars | 24m | |||
Avon Gorge Suspension Bridge Upper Amphitheatre Walls | |||||
E3 UKT:6b | ★ Arête de la Dégéneration
The difficulties amount to a short hard F6c+. | 25m | |||
E4 UKT:6b | Two Ton of Fun | 25m | |||
Avon Gorge Suspension Bridge The North Wall | |||||
E5 UKT:6b | The Rejected Capstone
A hard but brilliant challenge accessing the mini-cave/hole in the cliff. Climb up straightforward terrain on the wall left of the start of Strappados. Clip multiple pegs and set off up very steep\hard ground to the hole. Climb out of it and continue above to a two-bolt abseil station. | 22m | |||
Avon Gorge Suspension Bridge The Top Right Walls | |||||
E4 UKT:6b | Expect Carnage | 12m | |||
Cheddar North Side Lion Rock | |||||
E4 UKT:6b | Pussy Galore
| ||||
{FR} FR:7c | ★★ Human Zoo
| ||||
{FR} FR:7b+ | Cheddar Death Knell
| ||||
{FR} FR:7c | ★ Circus, Circus
| ||||
{FR} FR:7c | ★★★ Valley of the Blind
| ||||
E6 UKT:6b | ★★★ Seriously Strong Cheddar
| ||||
Cheddar North Side The Remnant | |||||
E4 UKT:6b | Immaculate Conception
| 12m | |||
E4 UKT:6b | My Bones, My Bones, My
| 18m | |||
E5 UKT:6b | Try to Remember
| 20m | |||
E5 UKT:6b | Buried Alive
| 20m | |||
{FR} FR:7c | ★★ Everyday Lives of Ordinary People
| 15m | |||
{FR} FR:7b+ | Bouncing Barry
| 12m | |||
{FR} FR:7b | ★ Spy in the Sky
| 12m | |||
{FR} FR:7b+ | Act of Vengance
| 9m |