Routes in South-West England for selected grade

Stick clip the thread first? Then dyno from the stance at the back of the cave to the lip! F.A. done without pre-clipping the thread.

F7b, short hard climbing, past two staples.

Large rockfall at the base. Potentially no longer possible/very dangerous to climb P1. [March 2021]

1. 6b, 45m.

2. 5c, 25m.

1. 6a, 27m.

2. 6b, 25m.

3. 6b, 20m.

1. 5b, 27m.

2. 6a/b, 25m.

3. 6a, 20m.

Intense climbing that builds to a decisive pitch which battles up the thin seam and shear wall left of the top of the ramp. Start as for Yellow Edge.

1. 5c, 26m. Yellow Edge pitch 1.

2. 5c,16m. Clip a peg above the ledge on the right and move up the wall and onto a hollow flake/ledge. Move up leftwards (peg), traverse left 1m and then head up the wall rightwards to a bolted belay in the horizontal band of pocketed rock.

3. 6b, 30m. Move up to a very thin crack (peg) and climb it to a ledge. Move up the wall above leftward (peg) and then on up the fingery wall past a peg to another on the left. Move up right and then left to a peg before reaching a break above, that is traversed left until the top can be gained or the bolted belay of Was it You?

7c/7c+. Climb the easy opening sequence of 'Was It You’ to the thin break and natural peg and compose yourself for a direct assault up the holdless wall where the parent route wimps-out leftwards. At the thin horizontal seam make a ‘baby bouncer’ between the parent’s bolt and the peg on Tour de France. The final attack is made without any protection until the final bolt of the parent can be clipped, however a slightly safer option is to first, tenuously clip the peg on Tour de France with a long reach out right. Finish at the in-situ lower off.

Hard rockover onto heel hook and slopey nothings for hands. One poor peg protects.

Hard crimping passed pair of pegs, then scary upper section. Has been done ground up.

E5 without the pegs

Very hard (and dirty) crimping past single ring bolt to top out of Slap Stick.

Lovely climb on great quality rock. Climb the Slender Norris crack to a shrubbery (which may benefit from the occasional prune). Place some good gear as high as you can reach and then traverse left on good crimps to a thinner crack that offers quite little in terms of gear and holds. Work your way up to a break to find good hold and and a reassuring peg, then make long reachy moves up and right to gain a shake-out and the biggest, fattest peg anybody has ever placed. Somehow find a way to get stood up in the seemingly blank scoop above and tip-toe delicately right to an exit where a belay station can (eventually) be found.

F7b climbing

Some thin moves and a long reach up to the pegs at the break for a semi-rest before launching up the headwall just right of the Arms Race ring bolt.

Takes a disjointed crackline. Grade depends on finish used. The LH finish is best and hardest at E5. The original finish traverses R 20' below the top to the arete and is E4. Superb and very sustained wall climbing. Start at pockets in the wall just left of a small overhang, 4m right of the start of Arms Race. Climb up the pockets to meet the base of a short right trending crack. Climb the crack to a peg and step right to a thinner crack. Climb this past another peg to a move right and a shakeout on the blunt arete. Move up to a peg and then climb the steepening wall past a peg on the left to the top

An eliminate up the lower wall between What About Me and Rancho Cucamonga. Start behind the budleia (if it's still there) and gain and pinch a poor sidepull. Placing the other foot on, dynamically gain an intermediate crimp and then go again out right for a bigger but dirty flat hold. Less positive holds above and to the right of this lead to a big move from a finger jug to the sanctuary of a niche and good wires. From the good break above (good hex and or cams) finish more direct to the left of Rancho, or to suit.

The pink streak to the right of the corner, started directly. Poor gear. Second ascenscionist (on-sight) said E6 6b. Must finsh up slight arête for full grade.

All stared routes on the ramp in 24 hours. (Current guide book) * Banshee E2 5c (pitch 1) * Us E2 5b (pitch 1) * Low Profile E5 6b Arms Race E4 5c Mirage E3 6a/b Bold as Love E6 6b Lost Illusions E5 6b New Horizons II E3 5c Solar Power E5 6b * Already Gone E6 6a Them E3 6a ** Tour de France E6 6b (top pitch) Each person must lead each pitch, the gear can be left in by the first, the ropes pulled and the second can climb on that gear. If you fall pull the ropes.

Left hand line past two pegs and a great dynamic move for a sloper.

Hard, just off vertical climbing up wall left of the groove. Peg in the belay stops you rolling down to the car park if you come off.

The right hand side of the Pathos arête. Start up the bulging arête as for Pathos and Academic. Follow Pathos onto the grassy ledge then step up and right back onto the arête, fix a Friend 3.5 in the shallow slot and stretch to clip the peg (new and good) on Pathos. From the cam slot leave Pathos via a long reach to a big sloper on the arête. Continue up the right hand side of the arête via a series of hard snatches between small holds to the sanctuary of a good flat hold. Fix the final protection if desired (a slider 1, which can be borrowed from the first ascensionist) and make the final easier moves to a large ledge. Continue up the arête to the lower off of Academic and Eros.

Style of FA – Headpoint (process started before the reinstallation of the Pathos peg)

Also worth noting that second ascensionist Martin Crocker, climbed an easier and slightly safer left hand variation. From the big sloper this moves up the left-hand side of the arête with feet on the Pathos slab. This is E5 6b.

F7b+ climbing.

Identifiable by the two M10 bolts on the black wall. Move left to the borehole niche and use the chain lower off above.

Direct out of the railed off cave (peg now missing) to RPs and hand placed pegs in flake. Then scary rockover crux to easier finish. Low in the grade; has been on-sighted.

E7 without the bolt (A Smith June 2001). Follow Tunnel vision to start, then head up crimpy wall above (no side runners in 2B) to weird final rock over.

E7 without the bolt (F7a+ with)

1. 6a, 12m.

2. 6b, 25m.

3. 5a, 15m.

1. 5a, 15m.

2. 6a, 18m.

3. 5c, 18m.

1. 6b, 15m.

2. 6b, 35m.

F7c climbing.

thin crack just right of Floegs folly, above a starfish mural. Line follows crack to a blunt arete, bolt belay above arete

Solo. Thin slab with a mono without recourse to holds on neighbouring routes. Requires the steeliest of nerves and the best in stickability. Much harder for vertically challenged, i.e. sub 6 foot one-ers!

1. 6b, 27m.

2. 6a, 25m.

1. 4b, 20m.

2. 5c, 20m.

3. 6c, 35m.

An exposed and run-out pitch that takes on the blank central section of the pink wall, high on the left side of the face. Start via a scramble to a good ledge directly below the wall.

1. 5a, 30m. Move up a rib and wall on the left to ledges (belay of Krapp's Last Tape and Main Wall Eliminate on the right). Move up and traverse left until a rib can be climbed past a spike to a bulge and peg. Pull up into the groove above the bulge, peg, and climb it until a belay can be taken at some horizontal breaks.

2. 6b, 25m. Move up to the pink wall and clip two bolts above (on Think Pink). Move left and then up a line of holds into the middle of the wall. Climb rightwards, bolt, and then up, bolt, before traversing right into a groove (on Think Pink), bolt. Hard moves out left into a shallow niche are followed by a big run out above it which ends at a peg and better holds. A short bulging section gains a belay ledge and tree on the right.

3. 6b, 13m. Climb a slim groove past a peg and make a long move up the wall above to another peg. Finish leftwards.

Climb Pink Ginsane direct without the traverse into Think Pink.

1. 6b, 25m.

2. 6b, 12m.

1. 6b, 35m.

2. 5b, 25m.

F7c climbing.

1. 5a, 25m.

2. 6c, 20m.

3. 6b, 18m.

1. 5a, 25m.

2. 6a, 20m.

3. 6b, 15m.

An excellent route incorporating a lot of difficult and tenuous climbing as well as some serious situations on the first pitch. Start on Breakfast Ledge.

1. 6b, 42m. Follow Lich Gates up its initial groove to a peg and then move carefully up and slightly right to another peg and wires. Make bold moves diagonally left past a poor peg to join Peryl at a peg. Follow Peryl up right to a rest and then back left past pegs and move into a shallow groove with difficulty. From two bolts move up slightly right to 2 pegs and make some final pressing moves to a belay.

2. 6b, 12m. Climb up rightwards to a peg and wires, or, up left to a break and a thread and move right and down to the peg. From the peg move up and right to another peg and wires and so on to the top. A committing and exciting pitch.

The line to the left of Titania. Make really hard moves directly past the first two bolts then step right near at the top, past the top bolt of Titania and make the exiting mantle out.

A super direct between Bristol Diamond and FKD. Start as for FKD at the footledge. Take a hard direct line to a small side hold. Excellent small wires in the crack above. Make a hard rock up left onto a reasonable foothold and make tenuous moves to the fingerjug just below the peg on Bristol Diamond. Finishing up right of the crack.

The line to the right of 45° In the Shade. Move left when at the second bolt to good holds on 45° then up slightly right to a good side pull which leads to a strenuous and sloping exit

E6 6b with 2 rest points (in 8m). Awaits a clean ascent on gear.

Clipping bolts negates a true ascent.

The difficulties amount to a short hard F6c+.

A hard but brilliant challenge accessing the mini-cave/hole in the cliff. Climb up straightforward terrain on the wall left of the start of Strappados. Clip multiple pegs and set off up very steep\hard ground to the hole. Climb out of it and continue above to a two-bolt abseil station.