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Summary

The great fortress of hard climbing. It looms large over the pass and has the routes top match.

Description

Dinas Cromlech is one of the great crags of Britain, almost every line here is a classic and there's plenty to stretch your grade. Take on the mega classics cenotaph corner, cemetery gates, left wall and more. Or go for a long easy girdle or mega hard line. It's all there.

Approach

Park at the two large boulders half way up the llanberis pass. You will see cromlech high up the hill. Walk up the path from the left boulder travelling as far left as possible right up to the waterfall. Other paths exist but this is the easiest.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
1 VS 4c 40m
2 5a 27m

FA: J Brown & M T Sorrell, 1951

1 VS 4c 32m
2 4b 23m

FA: E Pentir Williams & R G Williams, 1935

1 HS 4a 24m
2 4b 40m

FA: J M Edwards, 1831

FA: T D Bourdillon & J W T Tomlinson, 1949

Epic sustained thin crack line left of the Memory Lane arête above the Garden. Access via multiple lines.

FA: P Livesey, 1976

Bold but steady climbing weaving towards and away from the arête (to climbers right) following the holds. Side runners in LW reduces the grade.

FA: R MOseley, J Smith & J Sutherland, 1956

FFA: A Garlick, 1970

Go straight up instead of traversing left

FA: J Brown & D Belshaw, 1952

FA: Steve Mayers

FA: Ron Fawcett, 1979

FA: Pete Livesey, 1974

1 E1 5b 34m
2 4c 18m

FA: J Brown & D D Whillans, 1951

Straight up instead of heading to arête for second pitch

A superb ridge climb leading to a fine finish high up on the wall. Start at the base of the prominent jagged ridge running down the eastern side of the crag.

  1. Head up the middle of the buttress to belay by a block on a large ledge.

  2. Continue up to the large pinnacles at the top of the main ridge, belaying on the right-hand side of the last spike before the col.

  3. Drop down into the col and belay (skip this belay if you are a confident leader but watch your rope work for the runners placed in the col section).

  4. Climb a grassy crack to gain a leftwards-trending line leading to a superb belay on the arete.

  5. Climb up the lovely slab then trend rightwards to a large sloping ledge below the final chimney.

  6. Entering the chimney via the crack is something of a crux not made easier by the polish of thousands of passing climbers. The awkward section is thankfully short-lived! Descend the main gully to the right.

FA: J M Edwards, 1931

FA: James 'Caff' Mchaffie & Pete Robins, May 2018

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