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Lower Sharpnose Point

  • Grade context: UK
  • Ascents: 18

Seasonality

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Summary

Incredible long thin fingers of Culm spear out into the ocean, creating an incredible exposed trad climbing experience

Description

Lower Sharpnose point is a trad climbing venue in the culm coast. It is a serious venue with rap in climb out being the only method. Be very careful of being trapped by tides, and understand that the easiest escape is a VS chimney.

Access issues

This is a trad only venue, consult local groups before new routing or adding any fixed gear.

Approach

Park at duckpool bay Morwenstow, Bude EX23 9HW.

Find the walking track leading straight up the hill behind the car park (north). Follow this up onto the point and walk for approximately 20min. Once you see the large radar station, look for a path leading down left off the path to the point. The rocks will only become visible once you are closer. If you can see the fins of the point behind you, walk back up the track to find the off shoot. Once you can see the fins, scramble carefully down to them and look for an abseil point on the north fin (The only accessible fin). There is one good stainless steel piton and some trad gear. Abseil in down Out of the blue.

Make sure you know the tides, this crag is only accessible 3hrs either side of low tide The tide comes in very quickly and can catch you unexpectedly.

Where to stay

Many options exist for paid campgrounds in the area. Note that wild camping is not legal and you may be moved on if you are found to park overnight at the bay.

Ethic

Trad only ethic. Leave no fixed gear. Any fixed pegs should be treated with caution as they are not being replaced.

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