Balgone Heughs

  • Grade context: UK
  • Ascents: 14




Bolted routes along a 15m high outcrop in a sheltered setting, only 25 minutes walk from North Berwick Law. Bolts replaced on the majority of existing lines with 12mm glue ins and many new lines added Autumn 2013. More new lines added 2021/22.


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20m left of the head of the approach path, up and left past the bird-feeder barrel is a short, slightly hidden buttress.

Central line on the buttress with a technical lower wall leading to a powerful finish. Beware the crumble.

Clip the first bolt of Rumble and climb up and right to a delicate exit at the right end of the roof.

Climb Freakin’ to the 3rd bolt then direct over roof.

An eliminate line between The Wanderer and Jungle Boogie. Pull through the first bulge using the obvious side pull (crux) and tackle the second bulge head-on, without escaping left onto The Wanderer.

The concave wall right of the main sector.

The protruding buttress located 50m to the right of The Cirque.

The wee wall 20m to the right of The Prow.

The recessed wall to the right of the pinnacle. Located 50m to the right of The Prow.

A short distance up the slope to the right of Chestnut Tree Buttress, duck under a fallen tree to access a shallow bay.


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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Andy Nisbet

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9781907233159

A comprehensive sport climbing guidebook for Scotland, including 3 dry tooling areas, describing over 1,300 routes across a wide range of grades from F3 to F9a.

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Thu 20 Jul
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