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Summary

South facing sea cliff easily accessible from Aberdour and offers a good number of middle-grade climbs. It dries quickly and is very popular on summer evenings. Potential for DWS if you're mad enough.

Approach

Park at the Silver Sands car park and walk down past the Room With A View restaurant. Follow the path along the coast for about 100m.

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Routes

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Grade Route

The quartz-filled crack at the back of the recess. Climb it and step left into Ugh when you reach the roof. Belay with the tree stump on the terrace.

Stark on the terrace, near the tre stump, where it says 'KEN'.

There's a white-ish corner above a terrace (3m right of Squirrel Slab), and to the left of it a small roof can be seen. Climb from the bottom of the corner, to directly underneath the small roof. From here move slightly leftwards to climb the left edge of the wall above, without moving into Squirrel Slab.

1). The overhanging crack at the back of the bay is well protected and leads to a good belay ledge. Cams needed for the belay. 2). From the bottom terrace, climb the corner right in front which has a white patch on the left at the bottom. If you finished the pitch higher up, traverse slightly right to be on top of the white patch, and climb up on good rounded holds.

This takes the wall (buttress) to the right of Gaucho and left of Rebel's Groove. Avoiding holds and gear from either of the climbs left or right (eliminate), climb the crack in the pillar to a ledge (same ledge of Rebel's Groove, and from there climb straight up to a blunt black rib. There's a creaky/shaky/loose flake that you inevitably use to overcome the bulge. From top of the bulge, continue straight up to the top.

UPDATE 30/04/2021: The shaky flake(s) have both fallen off leaving a large scoop of dirt. The grade is now unknown. Climb with caution.

Climb a series of shallow corners that you will find about 3m left of Guano. The crux (not well protected) is the protruding nose. Finish above climbing past the gorse plants.

Find the big flake (5m wide) of Flake and Wall, and climb its left edge/arete without bridging into the main cliff wall. Poorly protected but some decent committing moves.

There is a bit of quartz on a wall just left of Destiny Groove. Climb this to a 'porthole' and keep climbing to the triangular roof. Climb straight up the Beak (nose, crux) without escaping left of right if you want to claim the grade. Protection is poor throughout. Bolt belay.

Goes up the pillar between Welly Wall and Eureka. If you find Eureka, climb the wall immediately left avoiding holds of Eureka, and whithout fully stepping left into the slanting ledge.

A natural eliminate between Termination and Eureka, without using holds or protection of either. From exactly below the small overlap with an obvious large undercling, climb straight up. Reaching the undercling is protected from below. The crux (above) is unprotected. Commitment and determination will see you through. Worth it if climbed purely.

The crack at the extreme right end of the cliff. Don't bridge out behind you for the grade.

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