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Boltsheugh Guide

  • Grade context: UK
  • Ascents: 13

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Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

alonso.ATCO

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Table of contents

1. Boltsheugh

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

20 routes in Crag

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 57.029662, -2.142793

description

The original Aberdeen sport climbing crag has since had some trad routes added on walls to the north and south of the bolts.

The sports climbs tend to be short and vicious. The trad climbs tend to be on adventurous rock.

access issues

No issues.

approach

Mostly non-tidal, though the routes at the south end of the headland are affected

1.1. Boltsheugh Upper

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
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O
N
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Seasonality

12 routes in Sector

Lat / Long: 57.029903, -2.142783

description

First sector yo encounter as you approach it. Short overhanging routes of all grades and a few boulder problems. Routes described left to right

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Meany {FR} 5c Sport 6m
2 Eany {FR} 5c Sport 6m
3 Mo {FR} 6a Sport 6m
4 The Dark Side {FR} 6c+ Sport 7m
5 Automatic {FR} 6c+ Sport 8m
6 The Dregs {FR} 6a Sport 8m
7 Unnamed

Route not in the gudebook. To the left of the obvious crack and left of Little Creatures.

{FR} 5b Sport 9m
8 Traverse of the Cods

This route starts at Little Creatures, then traverses right on the obvious break, then finishes up on Aches in Provence.

{FR} 7a Sport 12m
9 Little Creatures {FR} 6c Sport 6m
10 Crossroads {FR} 6a+ Sport 6m
11 Aches in Provence {FR} 6c Sport 6m
12 Deadheads {FR} 7b Sport 6m

1.2. Boltsheugh Lower

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

8 routes in Sector

Lat / Long: 57.029424, -2.143234

description

Walk down from the emd of the Upper sector, and find a cave and a platform with a wall with much longer routes than on the Upper sector. Even tho it may look tidal, you can normally climb here all day without problem.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Morrison's Missed Adventure {FR} 7a Sport 18m
2 Rankin's Rain Games {FR} 6b Sport 18m
3 The League of Whingers

Shares lower off with Hardy and Laurel. Soft for the grade.

{FR} 6b+ Sport 18m
4 Hardy

The line of bolts right of League of Whingers.

{FR} 6a+ Sport 18m
5 Laurel

Same start as Hardy, but quickly take the line of bolts to the right, and finish on the same LO.

{FR} 6a Sport 18m
6 Cheeky Madam

The Line on the left side of the cave. Soft for the grade, but worthwhile nonetheless.

{FR} 6b+ Sport 15m
7 Trouble Monkey

The line on the right side of the cave. It must be climbed to the left of the bolts across the roof for the tricky 7a+ moves. If climbed to the right of the roof (much eaasier ground) then it's only a 6b+ variation.

{FR} 7a+ Sport 15m
8 Trouble Monkey Variation

A popular route that takes the right side of the bolts of the 7a+, making it a much easier climb and cutting the roof short, escaping it promptly.

{FR} 6b+ Sport 15m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
5b Unnamed Sport 9m 1.1. Boltsheugh Upper
5c Eany Sport 6m 1.1. Boltsheugh Upper
Meany Sport 6m 1.1. Boltsheugh Upper
6a Mo Sport 6m 1.1. Boltsheugh Upper
The Dregs Sport 8m 1.1. Boltsheugh Upper
Laurel Sport 18m 1.2. Boltsheugh Lower
6a+ Crossroads Sport 6m 1.1. Boltsheugh Upper
Hardy Sport 18m 1.2. Boltsheugh Lower
6b Rankin's Rain Games Sport 18m 1.2. Boltsheugh Lower
6b+ Cheeky Madam Sport 15m 1.2. Boltsheugh Lower
The League of Whingers Sport 18m 1.2. Boltsheugh Lower
Trouble Monkey Variation Sport 15m 1.2. Boltsheugh Lower
6c Aches in Provence Sport 6m 1.1. Boltsheugh Upper
Little Creatures Sport 6m 1.1. Boltsheugh Upper
6c+ Automatic Sport 8m 1.1. Boltsheugh Upper
The Dark Side Sport 7m 1.1. Boltsheugh Upper
7a Traverse of the Cods Sport 12m 1.1. Boltsheugh Upper
Morrison's Missed Adventure Sport 18m 1.2. Boltsheugh Lower
7a+ Trouble Monkey Sport 15m 1.2. Boltsheugh Lower
7b Deadheads Sport 6m 1.1. Boltsheugh Upper
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